Steering wheel shakes above 55!
12-11-2008, 11:33 PM
#1
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Steering wheel shakes above 55! I searched through every thread and still dont have a good answer. I have a 99 TA that has done this since i bought it 100% stock. 2 years later I have done the following; New wheels/tires, balanced and aligned, new shocks/springs, new front rotors and pads, new tie rod ends.
The wheel still shakes worse than ever, only at 55 and above. I also seem to have a problem with shimmying or following the grooves and dips in the road alittle too much.
I think it may be the the steering shaft as it wobbles ever so slightly but Ive tightened both bolts as hard as I could. Other than that Im dumbfounded. Is it time to take it to a shop and turn them loose on it?
The wheel still shakes worse than ever, only at 55 and above. I also seem to have a problem with shimmying or following the grooves and dips in the road alittle too much.
I think it may be the the steering shaft as it wobbles ever so slightly but Ive tightened both bolts as hard as I could. Other than that Im dumbfounded. Is it time to take it to a shop and turn them loose on it?
12-12-2008, 12:58 AM
#4
The only thing in the steering shaft that could ever have twisting play is the sphere kit and i doubt it is bad. The rack could also cause twisting play.
it could be in the alignment, though?
the ball joints are a possibility but you are looking at about 60 dollars a joint and they shouldn't really be bad unless you have an *** ton of miles or been in a lot of bad roads.
it could be in the alignment, though?
the ball joints are a possibility but you are looking at about 60 dollars a joint and they shouldn't really be bad unless you have an *** ton of miles or been in a lot of bad roads.
12-12-2008, 06:24 AM
#5
Get your wheels rebalanced. I don't know if you have access to one yourself, because that's the surefire way to know if you it's right, but its the logical step. Its the cheapest, fastest, and easiest. And barring alignment settings being completely out of spec, if your wheels are perfectly balanced then you should have no alignment issues whatsoever.
If not then take it to a shop that knows what they're doing. One of "those" shops in my area has a 2-month waiting list for just alignments.
If not then take it to a shop that knows what they're doing. One of "those" shops in my area has a 2-month waiting list for just alignments.
12-12-2008, 08:14 AM
#6
How many miles are on the car? You've replaced most of the "easy to try" stuff, but you need to be a little more systematic.
Did the car shake before you changed the wheels and tires? If so, did it worsen after the change? If it remained the same, it's probably not wheel/tire related, however are your wheels/tires the same size all around? If so, swap the fronts to the back and see if it still shakes. If it does, I'd suspect either ball joints/bushings or a screwed up steering rack.
Did the car shake before you changed the wheels and tires? If so, did it worsen after the change? If it remained the same, it's probably not wheel/tire related, however are your wheels/tires the same size all around? If so, swap the fronts to the back and see if it still shakes. If it does, I'd suspect either ball joints/bushings or a screwed up steering rack.
12-12-2008, 09:46 AM
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The wheels are balanced correctly. Its done this with 2 different sets of wheels and Ive switched the rears to the front. The car has 158k miles, which is alot. Where do I start with bushings/ ball joints? Is there a way to tell if they are bad? Same for steering rack. Any way to tell if the rack is bad?
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12-12-2008, 10:29 AM
#8
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What kind of rotors did you go with? Mine did this when the stock rotors warped, even after resurfacing. Replaced with better quality rotors, problem solved.
12-12-2008, 11:31 AM
#10
The wheels are balanced correctly. Its done this with 2 different sets of wheels and Ive switched the rears to the front. The car has 158k miles, which is alot. Where do I start with bushings/ ball joints? Is there a way to tell if they are bad? Same for steering rack. Any way to tell if the rack is bad?
If the OE ball joints and bushings are still in place, that's your problem. They are the "sealed" design (ball joints) and without any fresh grease over the course of 158K miles, they're SHOT! (actually, even greaseable b/js would be pretty well worn at 158K miles!)
With respect to bushings, your car is nearly 10 years old. Rubber bushings dry up and get brittle and cracked. In other words, they're pretty well gone too.
I would replace those first, as the odds of a bad rack are slimmer.
12-12-2008, 06:01 PM
#15
Glad to hear you aren't driving it!!
if you are a car savy person (change our tranny yourself or other engine mods it should be a piece of cake)
Uppers are a cake walk.
Lowers are easy with a ball joint press but the a arm design makes it crappy to do.
12-12-2008, 06:26 PM
#16
Do yourself a favor...Buy a big a**ed ball joint press from a serious tool company like OTC. It won't be cheap, but it's a good, one-time-for-life investment, and it can be used for b/js, universal joints, control arm bushings, to name a few jobs. I've had my press for about 25 years, it's a real anvil...
Also, a big crescent wrench to crank on it, is a good investment also. I have a 15"er. Those tools may set you back $125-150, but if you don't misplace them, you'll be passing them on to your grandchildren.....and it's less $$ than you'll pay somebody to do the work.
Also, a big crescent wrench to crank on it, is a good investment also. I have a 15"er. Those tools may set you back $125-150, but if you don't misplace them, you'll be passing them on to your grandchildren.....and it's less $$ than you'll pay somebody to do the work.
