UMI torque Arm Hitting Tunnel
#1
UMI torque Arm Hitting Tunnel
Hey Guys. I just installed UMI torque arm with QA1 shocks. Awesome set up. I had the car up on the alignment rack and I noticed the torque arm is hitting the tunnel. I have the arm in the inner holes to the rear end, which is a 12 bolt Moser. I could only get the torque arm on the rear end in those holes, because the arm won't go over to the outer holes because it hits the rear end housing. I have the SLP spring kit on the rear. So it does sit lower then stock. I bought the QA1 12 way adjustable shocks for the rear because, I would rub my slicks when I would lauch off the line. I haven't been to the track on this set up yet. So I am not sure how much the rear end is still going to come down when I lauch. I had to bend the tunnel up and away to clear it. Anyone else having this issue with a Moser 12 bolt?
#2
I had a similar issue with the 10-bolt, so I just clearance the tunnel. With my Strange 12-bolt and clearancing, it clears just fine so I'm not worried about it anymore.
#4
mine already marked the tunnel up pretty good before i seen what it was doing. kind of to late to do anything about it now that it did the clearance it needed to. but mine isnt lowered so i would image it might be worse then on a lowered car.
#6
I thought I would need to go back to the stock springs, but it sounds like it is still hitting with stock springs. I am running a 28in tire at the track and when I lauch of the line the wheel well hits the side of the tire a little bite. I was hitting the right side before I bought a adjustable panhard bar. Now I hit both sides. Now the issue with the torque arm , I am afraid I might put a hole in the tunnel when I lauch of the line. It will depend on how good the QA 1 shocks keep the rear end from squatting.
#7
Had the same problem but with Moser 9 inch, BMR TA, and Eibach springs that are about an inch lower than stock. I just brought out the hammer and everything clears fine now
I hear the chassis mounted TAs don't have this problem but I didn't want to go that route when I had the problem.
I hear the chassis mounted TAs don't have this problem but I didn't want to go that route when I had the problem.
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#10
He didn't specify that it was a chassis mount, but it is. IMO the main problem is that he has the factory SLP spring kit that lowers the rear of the car, in fact with Hoosier slicks he only has about 1" clearance between the top of the tire and fender well. On launch the tire and fender well rub. My idea is a BFH or taller springs.
#11
i had the same problem with the UMI tunnel mount TA rubing on the tunnel. i even noticed when i pulled all the stock suspension ect the my stock TA was rubing. Just notch it and forget about it, it not to hard.
#12
Yes it is tunnel mounted. I was shocked when I had it on the drive on rack and seen the tunnel laying on the TA. I am going to call UMI tomorrow and see what they have to say. I guess right now the answer is a BFH.
#13
Yeah let us know what they have to say. When I did mine(diff brand and diff setup) the only way I saw to avoid the hammer was to maybe drill two more holes in the mount where it bolts to the rear and then maybe reinforce those holes with welds because there would not be much metal left around the holes.
#14
I will let you know what they say tomorrow. My UMI bracket that bolts to the rear end has two inner holes and two outer holes. The only way it will bolt to my rear end is on the inner holes, which in turn makes it closer to the tunnel. The bracket hits the rear end housing and won't go over to the outer holes.
In the directions it said it had to be parallel to the drive shaft. So if it was to mount on the outer holes, I don't think it would be parallel to the drive shaft.
In the directions it said it had to be parallel to the drive shaft. So if it was to mount on the outer holes, I don't think it would be parallel to the drive shaft.
#15
well i know the torque arm brackets are different on moser 9" and 12bolts but you might take a look at that. i have a moser 9" and it the torque arm bracket is so big that it punched a hole through my floor on my camaro(not lowered).
#17
Hey Guys. I just installed UMI torque arm with QA1 shocks. Awesome set up. I had the car up on the alignment rack and I noticed the torque arm is hitting the tunnel. I have the arm in the inner holes to the rear end, which is a 12 bolt Moser. I could only get the torque arm on the rear end in those holes, because the arm won't go over to the outer holes because it hits the rear end housing. I have the SLP spring kit on the rear. So it does sit lower then stock. I bought the QA1 12 way adjustable shocks for the rear because, I would rub my slicks when I would lauch off the line. I haven't been to the track on this set up yet. So I am not sure how much the rear end is still going to come down when I lauch. I had to bend the tunnel up and away to clear it. Anyone else having this issue with a Moser 12 bolt?
With the mods that you have and the torque arm it shifts towards the drivers side. What would help center the rear end is a adjustable panhard bar. If you have any other problems feel free to contact me.
Thanks Again!
Brad
#19
problem
Hello,
Seeing how you have the car lowered is one reason its hitting is due to lowering your vehicle puts the torque arm closer to the tunnel and the 12 bolt off sets the rear. We recommend when using a aftermarket rear use factory springs so this problem doesn't happen. And two other options is find were its hitting and use a hammer to make clearance and or use a sawzall and cut the first two holes off on the bracket to allow you to move to the second holes which centers the arm in the tunnel. If you have any other problems and questions feel free to give us a call.
Thanks Again!
Brad
Seeing how you have the car lowered is one reason its hitting is due to lowering your vehicle puts the torque arm closer to the tunnel and the 12 bolt off sets the rear. We recommend when using a aftermarket rear use factory springs so this problem doesn't happen. And two other options is find were its hitting and use a hammer to make clearance and or use a sawzall and cut the first two holes off on the bracket to allow you to move to the second holes which centers the arm in the tunnel. If you have any other problems and questions feel free to give us a call.
Thanks Again!
Brad
#20
Hello,
Seeing how you have the car lowered is one reason its hitting is due to lowering your vehicle puts the torque arm closer to the tunnel and the 12 bolt off sets the rear. We recommend when using a aftermarket rear use factory springs so this problem doesn't happen. And two other options is find were its hitting and use a hammer to make clearance and or use a sawzall and cut the first two holes off on the bracket to allow you to move to the second holes which centers the arm in the tunnel. If you have any other problems and questions feel free to give us a call.
Thanks Again!
Brad
Seeing how you have the car lowered is one reason its hitting is due to lowering your vehicle puts the torque arm closer to the tunnel and the 12 bolt off sets the rear. We recommend when using a aftermarket rear use factory springs so this problem doesn't happen. And two other options is find were its hitting and use a hammer to make clearance and or use a sawzall and cut the first two holes off on the bracket to allow you to move to the second holes which centers the arm in the tunnel. If you have any other problems and questions feel free to give us a call.
Thanks Again!
Brad