Driveshaft Safety Loop
#1
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Can anyone recommend a good driveshaft safety loop?
I've seen the SLP, and BMR loops advertised in their catalogs. Any thoughts, criticisms, or suggestions would be most appreciated.
Thanks
I've seen the SLP, and BMR loops advertised in their catalogs. Any thoughts, criticisms, or suggestions would be most appreciated.
Thanks
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The Lakewood driveshaft loop allows generally good clearance to driveshafts, exhausts, and TA. It creates no ground clearance issues and has enough adjustablility to accommodate many different configurations. Plus the price is hard to beat. Installation is easy since it picks up the attach points for the factory tunnel brace.
You can pick one up at Jegs (p/n 620-18022) - here's the link http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...mp;prmenbr=361
Maybe some of our vendors have them too - not sure.
You can pick one up at Jegs (p/n 620-18022) - here's the link http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...mp;prmenbr=361
Maybe some of our vendors have them too - not sure.
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The SLP loop doesn't work well with a stock y-pipe, if you plan on getting an SLP y-pipe then I'd say go with both at the same time.JMO
Al
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I agree on the Lakewood. It can be adjusted too, and even installed backwords. It's cheap and it works great though, gives plenty of ground clearance since it goes above the exhaust.
Chris
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Well, I followed the advice of many others and got a lakewood. I wish my review was a glowing praise but it isn't.
to quote my other thread:
Mine was 3/8" too long on one side so I had to cut that off. It looks as though it was mangled a bit before it was put into the box, which unfortunately I didn't notice till after I cut the end. It's basically twisted lengthwise.
Since it's tweaked a little, nothing lines up right. I've hammered most of it out, but the loop part will need a vice to tweak it about 1/2" for the bolt holes to line up. After all this, it MAY fit. It just doesn't give the clearance I expected around the driveshaft, and looks NOTHING like all the other's I've seen already installed. Guess that leaves more to be desired for lakewoods QC program.
to quote my other thread:
I've heard nothing but praise for this unit. No removal of anything to get it installed, bolts in.
well....
RANT/
This is the most worthless piece of crap iron i've ever seen in my life. NEVER have I had to bend, cut or grind something so much only to have it STILL not even come close to fitting.
Dropped the driveshaft, even though they say it's not needed. Clears exhaust my BLEEP! and it won't even fit in the trans tunnel!
I'm gonna have to take this thing to work with me and do some MAJOR reworking on it and HOPE it will still come close to fitting. Biggest waste of $ in my life. I might as well start from scratch and bend a new one. It would probably fit better.
END RANT/
well....
RANT/
This is the most worthless piece of crap iron i've ever seen in my life. NEVER have I had to bend, cut or grind something so much only to have it STILL not even come close to fitting.
Dropped the driveshaft, even though they say it's not needed. Clears exhaust my BLEEP! and it won't even fit in the trans tunnel!
I'm gonna have to take this thing to work with me and do some MAJOR reworking on it and HOPE it will still come close to fitting. Biggest waste of $ in my life. I might as well start from scratch and bend a new one. It would probably fit better.
END RANT/
Since it's tweaked a little, nothing lines up right. I've hammered most of it out, but the loop part will need a vice to tweak it about 1/2" for the bolt holes to line up. After all this, it MAY fit. It just doesn't give the clearance I expected around the driveshaft, and looks NOTHING like all the other's I've seen already installed. Guess that leaves more to be desired for lakewoods QC program.
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i've got a lakewood, put it on and then took right back off because my new y-pipe needs the clearence. i would have had to take the stock tunnel brace off too though.
only complaint was that some of the bolt hole were not threaded so i had to tap them.
only complaint was that some of the bolt hole were not threaded so i had to tap them.
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The lakewood is meant to replace the stock tunnel brace. After I did some reworking on mine, it's actually a decent piece. Good clearance around the driveshaft and very sturdy. My main complaint is that their quality control is severely lacking.
i've got a lakewood, put it on and then took right back off because my new y-pipe needs the clearence. i would have had to take the stock tunnel brace off too though.
only complaint was that some of the bolt hole were not threaded so i had to tap them.
only complaint was that some of the bolt hole were not threaded so i had to tap them.
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The lakewood is meant to replace the stock tunnel brace. After I did some reworking on mine, it's actually a decent piece. Good clearance around the driveshaft and very sturdy. My main complaint is that their quality control is severely lacking.
i've got a lakewood, put it on and then took right back off because my new y-pipe needs the clearence. i would have had to take the stock tunnel brace off too though.
only complaint was that some of the bolt hole were not threaded so i had to tap them.
only complaint was that some of the bolt hole were not threaded so i had to tap them.
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I have a Lakewood myself... maybe the one I got was made wrong too, cause it wasn't too easy to install it... never even got the loop part on.
I ended up putting the stock brace back on because the Lakewood brace sat right up against my exhaust.
I'll probably try to rework it someway and make another attempt at installing it though cuz I like how it goes above the exhuast.
I ended up putting the stock brace back on because the Lakewood brace sat right up against my exhaust.
I'll probably try to rework it someway and make another attempt at installing it though cuz I like how it goes above the exhuast.
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I'm kind of surprised to hear about fitup/installation problems with the Lakewood. Mine has enough adjustment to accommodate 3.5" driveshaft, custom Y-pipe with Flowmaster collector, and G2 Torque Arm. I've had mine on and off several times and IMO installation was not a big deal. It may take a minute to find the best way to fit the loop portion over the driveshaft if its still installed, but the rest is straightforward - at least it can be installed without removing the driveshaft.
Of course there are an infinite amount of combinations so it stands to reason that few loop designs will work in every possible configuration. Having seen/installed the SLP, BMR, and Lakewood, I will definitely say that the Lakewood has the best chance of success with most combinations, plus at only $50 its relatively low risk.
Untapped holes and other QC problems, IMO, are disappointing, but I imagine that a reputable vendor would exchange such a defective part without issue.
Of course there are an infinite amount of combinations so it stands to reason that few loop designs will work in every possible configuration. Having seen/installed the SLP, BMR, and Lakewood, I will definitely say that the Lakewood has the best chance of success with most combinations, plus at only $50 its relatively low risk.
Untapped holes and other QC problems, IMO, are disappointing, but I imagine that a reputable vendor would exchange such a defective part without issue.
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at least it can be installed without removing the driveshaft
Then I had to trim about 1/2" off of the driverside lower part since it seems they drilled the holes in the wrong spot. Only after I cut it did I realize the enitre thing was twisted over it's length so I was basically stuck with it. Then after all the reworking on the lower portion I had to wrestle the loop into place only to find out it doesn't come close to ligning up to the holes on the lower part. I had to use a torch and vice/hammer to re-bend it. It's on now but I think it may need more tweaking to fit well. Overall I was very disappointed since I bought it for direct bolt in and no parts removal, neither of which were true.