GTXgp-

The starting point is OEM '00 Trans Am Brakes.

The first two upgrades are easy, SS Lines and DOT 4 or 5 Fluid.

As much as I would like to upgrade to a big brake kit, the class that I am running in limits me to running stock brakes…however, I can run any rotors/pads that I want. What is everyone's recommendation or consensus for good rotors/pads for Endurance & Road Course. During the event I will probably do 500+ miles and will have the opportunity to swap out rotors/pads (if necessary) at the mid-point. But, I need something that will have good grip and will LAST.

Suggestions?
Adam

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

hawk HP+ or hawk blue 9012, brembo blanks for the front. HP+ rear, brembo blanks again. if its some kind of real race, get real race brake fluid. not just off the shelf DOT4/5. get ATE super blue/red.

read up at frrax.com for more indepth road racing discussions.

GTXgp-

By "blanks".... do you mean plain rotors (no drill or slotting?)

Where is the best place (cost-wise) to buy HP+ & Brembos?

fbodyman1026

iTrader: (11)

Yeah... I'm no expert but I hear the drilled/slotting are just hype and don't have any performance benefits other than cracking.

You can purchase HP+ brakes at ws6store.com for a good price. I believe you can get brembo's at your local autostore, but I'm not 100% sure.

GTXgp-

Yep, for regular DD brakes I run plain rotors because I found the drilled/slotted didn't last as well. But, I wasn't sure for a more "race" application if people found a benefit.

I would prefer plain so it will stand-out less in this class.... but will do CD or Slotted if there is a noticable benefit.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Are you a One lapper?

Or are you doing the 8 hour enduro in April at TWS?

GTXgp-

Neither

Edit: So, Chris Johnson smacked me in the back of the head and said I should give you a real answer. I am building a car for the 24 Hours of Lemons (www.24hoursoflemons.com).

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Smack Chris back and then again for me.

Carbotech endurance pads are XP16s. They require a LOT of heat to work well. But, honestly, you might not even need to change pads ... rotors might be a different story.

If I were you, I'd call carbotech, tell them what your need is and they can even build you a custom thickness pad for this very occurence.

GTXgp-

Chris said to just go with O'Reily or AutoZone cheapo blanks and that those "should" last.... or worst case, they don't cost much to swap out at the mid-point if they are shot. Do you concur?

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

you found a 2000 trans am for $500?

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

Make it easy on yourself, call Strano and get his brake package:

ATE or Brembo rotors, ATE super blue fluid, SS lines, and HPS or HP+ pads. Done.

GTXgp-

No, but the car that I am running is being retrofit with OE 98+ f-body brakes and I just wanted the starting point for this discussion to be simple

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

The Houston Lemons circuit isn't particularly hard on brakes. They have put all those tire wall chicanes in place to keep speeds down.

For a Lemons car, yeah, that's what I would do.

And, I too would like to know where you found a $500 F-Car ...

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

i would think of entering the lemons, but i dont go for those dumbass penalties they have. beaters or not, im not letting some douche pour a pint of metal shavings in my crankcase as a 'penalty', or risk having a car i built and dragged all the way to the race be destroyed just by having my number pulled out of a hat.

Brakemotive

iTrader: (73)

I have a sale now, Powerstop Slotted rotors and i can get you the Extreme performance pads for $240. They should last you the whole race easy. And if you are really concerned about it, if you cryo treat the rotors any should last a 24 hour race. Don't know if they would last much more but they should do that for sure.

GTXgp-

I understand, but it does sound like fun and the majority of the penalties are based on bad driving, etc and can easily be avoided.... almost none of the penalties involve purposeful destruction of the car (with the exception of the people's curse that you mentioned)... and that is by majority vote, not just a random drawing.

The topper was finding the specific car that I got... it is a car that both me and the 3 people on my team are intimately familiar with (between the 3 of us, we have owned 10 of them) and one of our team members is a tech at a pontiac dealer. So, our team has plenty of technical know-how on this chasis & drivetrain which might give us a slim advantage.

I figured we would give it a shot, I plan to come in right at budget so with the exception of the cage, I'm not out more than $500 either way. Hopefully the car will survive and we can tweak some things and race it again.

Speaking of cage.... any suggestions for a good, but cheap, cage in the Dallas area.... or elsewhere in Texas? I'll trailer the car to a different city if the deal is good.

Adam

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Cage specs?

GTXgp-

check your PM