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new rotors/pads going on, need advice

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Old 04-15-2009, 05:06 AM
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Default new rotors/pads going on, need advice

i got a 4-pc set of the ATE rotors from Strano, and i'll be doing a full brake job when i get off work later this morning, but i need some advice on any other parts i may need, and things to do "while i'm in there".

i have the new rotors/pads, obviously, i already know about adjusting the e-brake if needed, and i intend to put the "serviceable" loctite (not the permanent) on the caliper bolts when putting everything back together to keep them from backing out....and i'll probably put a thin coat of anti-sieze on the back side of the rotors where they meet the wheel hub to keep them from rusting to the hubs, so they're easier to remove next time.

am i missing anything? do i need any new bolts/parts/etc.? anything else i need to be sure to do while i've got things apart?
Old 04-15-2009, 08:21 AM
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Get a new set of pad shims, caliper guide pin boots and it doesn't hurt to replace the caliper bracket bolts and the caliper guide pins and guide pin bolts. Also, don't forget to get some caliper grease and grease the guide pin bolts and add just a tad bit of grease to the "ears" of the pads and the contact points between the caliper and the pads.
Old 04-16-2009, 11:00 AM
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You will need to adjust your parking brakes for the new bore on your rear rotors. (You have to have the caliper off and the new rotor on in order to do this.)
Old 04-26-2009, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Major_Lee_Slow
Get a new set of pad shims, caliper guide pin boots and it doesn't hurt to replace the caliper bracket bolts and the caliper guide pins and guide pin bolts. Also, don't forget to get some caliper grease and grease the guide pin bolts and add just a tad bit of grease to the "ears" of the pads and the contact points between the caliper and the pads.
The GM manuals state to always replace these bolts (the ones that secure the caliper bracket to the knuckle). Is this really true or is it just a cover-your-**** sort of disclaimer?
Old 04-27-2009, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by TripleTransAm
The GM manuals state to always replace these bolts (the ones that secure the caliper bracket to the knuckle). Is this really true or is it just a cover-your-**** sort of disclaimer?
I don't recall seeing this in my 1999 manual. I could see replacing the "pin" bolts that secure the caliper to the bracket (They get flat-spotted and worn.) but the bracket bolts are high strength and don't really "wear" out.
Old 04-27-2009, 07:53 AM
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I have never replaced those bolts unless they look worn out, which has been very rare. I do make sure they are lubed up though.
Old 04-27-2009, 01:13 PM
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It's in the section describing the removal/replacement of the caliper bracket. It's the bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the knuckle (this appears to be new for 1998+), the bolts are spec'ed at 166lb-ft if I recall.

If no one else is losing sleep over reusing these bolts, I won't either.
Old 04-27-2009, 01:21 PM
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Oh, my bad. Well, anyway, if they look good, reuse.

Edit: Wait, aren't they the same on these calipers? I fail at having a visual memory.
Old 04-27-2009, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Major_Lee_Slow
Get a new set of pad shims, caliper guide pin boots and it doesn't hurt to replace the caliper bracket bolts and the caliper guide pins and guide pin bolts. Also, don't forget to get some caliper grease and grease the guide pin bolts and add just a tad bit of grease to the "ears" of the pads and the contact points between the caliper and the pads.
I totally agree, when I did my brakes I picked up a couple of brake rebuild kits from Autozone. The kit included caliper guides, bolts, and boots. You should also consider upgrading to some braided brake lines if you have the cash. My factory rubber lines were trashed and the car only had 40,000 miles on it.
Old 04-27-2009, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by dragonrage
Oh, my bad. Well, anyway, if they look good, reuse.

Edit: Wait, aren't they the same on these calipers? I fail at having a visual memory.
I'm not sure I understand what you mean in your Edit. Same as what calipers?

I checked with the GM parts droid nearby this morning, and of course I got the major confused look and no real info as to why GM would put that text in the manual. Best I can tell is some sort of Loctite-like stuff on the tip of the bolt. I reassembled my passenger's side as is, when I complete the driver's side in a few minutes I'll apply some similar thread sealant.
(I went the whole 7 yards this time... new GM pads, new GM rotors, new hub/bearing, all except the fluid flush and new hoses which I'll do within the coming months).

I'm also having a b*tch of a time getting 166 lb-ft to those bolts. Not much room underneath the fender for a big *** torque wrench. Sucks not having a lift in the garage, but I've got plenty of other commitments sucking up my cash these days.
Old 04-27-2009, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by TripleTransAm
I'm not sure I understand what you mean in your Edit. Same as what calipers?

I checked with the GM parts droid nearby this morning, and of course I got the major confused look and no real info as to why GM would put that text in the manual. Best I can tell is some sort of Loctite-like stuff on the tip of the bolt. I reassembled my passenger's side as is, when I complete the driver's side in a few minutes I'll apply some similar thread sealant.
(I went the whole 7 yards this time... new GM pads, new GM rotors, new hub/bearing, all except the fluid flush and new hoses which I'll do within the coming months).

I'm also having a b*tch of a time getting 166 lb-ft to those bolts. Not much room underneath the fender for a big *** torque wrench. Sucks not having a lift in the garage, but I've got plenty of other commitments sucking up my cash these days.
I recall the correct torque being something in the 70-80 lb ft range. 166 is way too much. (I am away from my books for a couple of days, otherwise I'd look it up for you.)
Old 04-27-2009, 06:04 PM
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Page 5-85 of book #2. 166 lb-ft for the caliper bracket bolts. You may be mistaking these for the knuckle-to-hub bolts which are spec'ed at 66 lb-ft (a bit earlier in the book, under the suspension section). The image for the hub replacement is wrong, by the way, and this is what is in GM's system from what I saw at the parts counter earlier... it seems to be for the single piston setup.
Old 04-27-2009, 07:27 PM
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Technically he is correct. In the GMP/98-F2F Volume 2 Manual the torque spec is 166 ft*lbf. However if you do choose to tighten the bolt to this spec please note that bolt will yield, therefore every time you do your brakes you technically need to replace the bolts per the warning on page 5-84
Caution: These fasteners MUST be replaced with new fasteners anytime they become loose or are removed. Failure to replace these fasteners after they become loose or are removed may cause loss of vehicle control and personal injury.

Or you can torque the bolts to 75 ft*lbs and use Blue Locktite. I've been using this method for over 10 years and no issues to date.
Old 04-28-2009, 11:06 AM
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Before reading this thread, I probably managed to get 120-ish lb-ft on those suckers with some mid/high-grade thread sealer (the red Permatex, I think). Is this something I should be concerned about?
Old 05-10-2009, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Major_Lee_Slow
Technically he is correct. In the GMP/98-F2F Volume 2 Manual the torque spec is 166 ft*lbf. However if you do choose to tighten the bolt to this spec please note that bolt will yield, therefore every time you do your brakes you technically need to replace the bolts per the warning on page 5-84
<b>
Caution: These fasteners MUST be replaced with new fasteners anytime they become loose or are removed. Failure to replace these fasteners after they become loose or are removed may cause loss of vehicle control and personal injury.
</b>
Or you can torque the bolts to 75 ft*lbs and use Blue Locktite. I've been using this method for over 10 years and no issues to date.
Thanks so much for pointing this out. (I have been away from home, car, and manuals for a couple of weeks - but I made it...)

I totally missed the caution when I had these bolts off earlier this year. I will go back and replace them all!

I wonder if the spec/brakes changed from '98 to '99? My '99 manual (see attachment) has the bolts at 74 ft lb.
Attached Thumbnails new rotors/pads going on, need advice-bolts.jpg  
Old 05-11-2009, 12:43 PM
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I've been using 74ft. lbs and blue loctite on those bolts and everything seems to be fine.
Old 05-11-2009, 12:50 PM
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You got most of it covered. Get the brake hardware kit (pin boots, shims, anti-rattle clip). A few cans of brake cleaner? I giant bfh or hatchet
Old 12-30-2009, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
Thanks so much for pointing this out. (I have been away from home, car, and manuals for a couple of weeks - but I made it...)

I totally missed the caution when I had these bolts off earlier this year. I will go back and replace them all!

I wonder if the spec/brakes changed from '98 to '99? My '99 manual (see attachment) has the bolts at 74 ft lb.
so which is it for a 99 model? 74 to 166 is a HUGE difference! I just got doing mine today at 74. I hope I don't need to redo them. It would be hard *** hell to get 166 on them.
Old 12-30-2009, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by edzsilverss
so which is it for a 99 model? 74 to 166 is a HUGE difference! I just got doing mine today at 74. I hope I don't need to redo them. It would be hard *** hell to get 166 on them.
The attachment in post #15 is from the 1999 book. It says 74.
Old 12-31-2009, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
The attachment in post #15 is from the 1999 book. It says 74.
seet, I didn't want to do them again. lol



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