new rotors/pads going on, need advice
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i got a 4-pc set of the ATE rotors from Strano, and i'll be doing a full brake job when i get off work later this morning, but i need some advice on any other parts i may need, and things to do "while i'm in there".
i have the new rotors/pads, obviously, i already know about adjusting the e-brake if needed, and i intend to put the "serviceable" loctite (not the permanent) on the caliper bolts when putting everything back together to keep them from backing out....and i'll probably put a thin coat of anti-sieze on the back side of the rotors where they meet the wheel hub to keep them from rusting to the hubs, so they're easier to remove next time.
am i missing anything? do i need any new bolts/parts/etc.? anything else i need to be sure to do while i've got things apart?
i have the new rotors/pads, obviously, i already know about adjusting the e-brake if needed, and i intend to put the "serviceable" loctite (not the permanent) on the caliper bolts when putting everything back together to keep them from backing out....and i'll probably put a thin coat of anti-sieze on the back side of the rotors where they meet the wheel hub to keep them from rusting to the hubs, so they're easier to remove next time.
am i missing anything? do i need any new bolts/parts/etc.? anything else i need to be sure to do while i've got things apart?
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Get a new set of pad shims, caliper guide pin boots and it doesn't hurt to replace the caliper bracket bolts and the caliper guide pins and guide pin bolts. Also, don't forget to get some caliper grease and grease the guide pin bolts and add just a tad bit of grease to the "ears" of the pads and the contact points between the caliper and the pads.
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Get a new set of pad shims, caliper guide pin boots and it doesn't hurt to replace the caliper bracket bolts and the caliper guide pins and guide pin bolts. Also, don't forget to get some caliper grease and grease the guide pin bolts and add just a tad bit of grease to the "ears" of the pads and the contact points between the caliper and the pads.
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It's in the section describing the removal/replacement of the caliper bracket. It's the bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the knuckle (this appears to be new for 1998+), the bolts are spec'ed at 166lb-ft if I recall.
If no one else is losing sleep over reusing these bolts, I won't either.
If no one else is losing sleep over reusing these bolts, I won't either.
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Get a new set of pad shims, caliper guide pin boots and it doesn't hurt to replace the caliper bracket bolts and the caliper guide pins and guide pin bolts. Also, don't forget to get some caliper grease and grease the guide pin bolts and add just a tad bit of grease to the "ears" of the pads and the contact points between the caliper and the pads.
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I checked with the GM parts droid nearby this morning, and of course I got the major confused look and no real info as to why GM would put that text in the manual. Best I can tell is some sort of Loctite-like stuff on the tip of the bolt. I reassembled my passenger's side as is, when I complete the driver's side in a few minutes I'll apply some similar thread sealant.
(I went the whole 7 yards this time... new GM pads, new GM rotors, new hub/bearing, all except the fluid flush and new hoses which I'll do within the coming months).
I'm also having a b*tch of a time getting 166 lb-ft to those bolts. Not much room underneath the fender for a big *** torque wrench. Sucks not having a lift in the garage, but I've got plenty of other commitments sucking up my cash these days.
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I'm not sure I understand what you mean in your Edit. Same as what calipers?
I checked with the GM parts droid nearby this morning, and of course I got the major confused look and no real info as to why GM would put that text in the manual. Best I can tell is some sort of Loctite-like stuff on the tip of the bolt. I reassembled my passenger's side as is, when I complete the driver's side in a few minutes I'll apply some similar thread sealant.
(I went the whole 7 yards this time... new GM pads, new GM rotors, new hub/bearing, all except the fluid flush and new hoses which I'll do within the coming months).
I'm also having a b*tch of a time getting 166 lb-ft to those bolts. Not much room underneath the fender for a big *** torque wrench. Sucks not having a lift in the garage, but I've got plenty of other commitments sucking up my cash these days.
I checked with the GM parts droid nearby this morning, and of course I got the major confused look and no real info as to why GM would put that text in the manual. Best I can tell is some sort of Loctite-like stuff on the tip of the bolt. I reassembled my passenger's side as is, when I complete the driver's side in a few minutes I'll apply some similar thread sealant.
(I went the whole 7 yards this time... new GM pads, new GM rotors, new hub/bearing, all except the fluid flush and new hoses which I'll do within the coming months).
I'm also having a b*tch of a time getting 166 lb-ft to those bolts. Not much room underneath the fender for a big *** torque wrench. Sucks not having a lift in the garage, but I've got plenty of other commitments sucking up my cash these days.
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Page 5-85 of book #2. 166 lb-ft for the caliper bracket bolts. You may be mistaking these for the knuckle-to-hub bolts which are spec'ed at 66 lb-ft (a bit earlier in the book, under the suspension section). The image for the hub replacement is wrong, by the way, and this is what is in GM's system from what I saw at the parts counter earlier... it seems to be for the single piston setup.
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Technically he is correct. In the GMP/98-F2F Volume 2 Manual the torque spec is 166 ft*lbf. However if you do choose to tighten the bolt to this spec please note that bolt will yield, therefore every time you do your brakes you technically need to replace the bolts per the warning on page 5-84
Or you can torque the bolts to 75 ft*lbs and use Blue Locktite. I've been using this method for over 10 years and no issues to date.
Caution: These fasteners MUST be replaced with new fasteners anytime they become loose or are removed. Failure to replace these fasteners after they become loose or are removed may cause loss of vehicle control and personal injury.
Or you can torque the bolts to 75 ft*lbs and use Blue Locktite. I've been using this method for over 10 years and no issues to date.
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Before reading this thread, I probably managed to get 120-ish lb-ft on those suckers with some mid/high-grade thread sealer (the red Permatex, I think). Is this something I should be concerned about?
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Technically he is correct. In the GMP/98-F2F Volume 2 Manual the torque spec is 166 ft*lbf. However if you do choose to tighten the bolt to this spec please note that bolt will yield, therefore every time you do your brakes you technically need to replace the bolts per the warning on page 5-84
<b>
Or you can torque the bolts to 75 ft*lbs and use Blue Locktite. I've been using this method for over 10 years and no issues to date.
<b>
Caution: These fasteners MUST be replaced with new fasteners anytime they become loose or are removed. Failure to replace these fasteners after they become loose or are removed may cause loss of vehicle control and personal injury.
</b>Or you can torque the bolts to 75 ft*lbs and use Blue Locktite. I've been using this method for over 10 years and no issues to date.
I totally missed the caution when I had these bolts off earlier this year. I will go back and replace them all!
I wonder if the spec/brakes changed from '98 to '99? My '99 manual (see attachment) has the bolts at 74 ft lb.
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Thanks so much for pointing this out. (I have been away from home, car, and manuals for a couple of weeks - but I made it...)
I totally missed the caution when I had these bolts off earlier this year. I will go back and replace them all!
I wonder if the spec/brakes changed from '98 to '99? My '99 manual (see attachment) has the bolts at 74 ft lb.
I totally missed the caution when I had these bolts off earlier this year. I will go back and replace them all!
I wonder if the spec/brakes changed from '98 to '99? My '99 manual (see attachment) has the bolts at 74 ft lb.
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