Best handling setup
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: Pulaski, VA
Best handling setup I'm looking at a 2000 Z28 but after having my 3000gt VR4 the Camaro just doesn't hadle good enough at all. Just wondering what would be the best stuff to buy to make the it handle better around turns? Whats the best stuff to buy first and then make my way up slowely to a road course car?
Haha welcome to the stock f-body. awd cars always handle better then us stock. Ill be the first to say strano springs and koni shocks are well worth the money and by far the best suspension upgrade for are cars.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-tech-faq.html
But in short... there are a few costly but very effective mods that these cars benefit from.
But in short... there are a few costly but very effective mods that these cars benefit from.
My 2000 t/a ws6 handles really good,But I have a lot of mods to the suspension.I have spent a good amount money on parts.Koni 4/3 sa shocks,Strano hollow sway bars,LCA's,Strut tower brace,and most of all a Watts link (fays2),Frame braces.The car kicks *** but It did cost some money.This stuff is not cheap.
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2000 t/a ws6 with lots of mods
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2000 t/a ws6 with lots of mods
A few suggestions for you! I'm looking at a 2000 Z28 but after having my 3000gt VR4 the Camaro just doesn't hadle good enough at all. Just wondering what would be the best stuff to buy to make the it handle better around turns? Whats the best stuff to buy first and then make my way up slowely to a road course car?
I would suggest a set of springs and a good set of shocks! Can't really help you with either of those.
But if you are going to be installing lowering springs I will be able to help you recenter the rear end. While suggesting a UMI Performance adjustable pan hard bar! And also a set of sway bars. Below is a link to show you what all we have to offer!http://umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=124
http://umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=161
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: Pulaski, VA
I was thinkin of putting 18's on the car what would be a good lowering spring that would give it a little drop but nothing that would make the car scrub on the tires or it the bump stops. Also I live in VA so theres lots of hills so it can't be to low? Also would like to have the smoothest ride I can but would rather have the handling.
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The 17" wheels don't always appear very attractive, however I have found the 17x9 or 17x11 to function best when it comes to performance vs. comfort. Plus even with some tyres that have very stiff sidewalls, I have found them much more comfortable than 18's with a medium stiffness tyre sidewall.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: Pulaski, VA
Think twice before doing that. I've tried that before and whilst they looked nice and didn't ride too terribly bad, my braking and handling actually worsened. 18's on the rear were the big culprit due to having too little of a sidewall, which then added a little too much lateral resistance, which significantly made it difficult for me to get the optimal tyre pressure. The added rotational mass from the 18's also made my braking distances noticeably worse.
The 17" wheels don't always appear very attractive, however I have found the 17x9 or 17x11 to function best when it comes to performance vs. comfort. Plus even with some tyres that have very stiff sidewalls, I have found them much more comfortable than 18's with a medium stiffness tyre sidewall.
The 17" wheels don't always appear very attractive, however I have found the 17x9 or 17x11 to function best when it comes to performance vs. comfort. Plus even with some tyres that have very stiff sidewalls, I have found them much more comfortable than 18's with a medium stiffness tyre sidewall.
[QUOTE=transwiz;11702034]My 2000 t/a ws6 handles really good,But I have a lot of mods to the suspension.I have spent a good amount money on parts.Koni 4/3 sa shocks,Strano hollow sway bars,LCA's,Strut tower brace,and most of all a Watts link (fays2),Frame braces.The car kicks *** but It did cost some money.This stuff is not cheap.
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^exactly
^strano performance
_______________________
^exactly
^strano performance
You mentioned you might "eventually go road racing". I drove my TA on the street for 3 years before gutting it and going road racing. I slowly put on parts until I got what I wanted. Amazingly, many of the parts I had while on the street are still on the car.
When you get shocks (Koni is probably your best bet, for a beginning; after RR for a while, you may want to step up to something better), get coilovers up front. I still have my Konis, but just put on stiffer springs.
Stick with stock control arms up front, until you get RR and know a lot more about this stuff. Offset bushings are good, though.
Adjustable PHR in the rear, along with weight jackers for ths springs. You can try a regular aftermarket torque arm like I did. But, I eventually had to get a de-coupled one. And, I still get brake hop.
Good brake pads and rotors. I use Carbotech XP 12 up front and AX6 in the rear. Baer 2-piece blank rotors. Wilwood 570 fluid.
Lay off the power mods until the car is suspended right, has brakes, and handles very well. Power should be the last mod.
When cutting weight, shoot to get under 3000 lbs. It's not too hard, but it makes a huge difference.
When you get shocks (Koni is probably your best bet, for a beginning; after RR for a while, you may want to step up to something better), get coilovers up front. I still have my Konis, but just put on stiffer springs.
Stick with stock control arms up front, until you get RR and know a lot more about this stuff. Offset bushings are good, though.
Adjustable PHR in the rear, along with weight jackers for ths springs. You can try a regular aftermarket torque arm like I did. But, I eventually had to get a de-coupled one. And, I still get brake hop.
Good brake pads and rotors. I use Carbotech XP 12 up front and AX6 in the rear. Baer 2-piece blank rotors. Wilwood 570 fluid.
Lay off the power mods until the car is suspended right, has brakes, and handles very well. Power should be the last mod.
When cutting weight, shoot to get under 3000 lbs. It's not too hard, but it makes a huge difference.
Worry about those later. You may not even need them. As a matter of fact... I've been through about 5 F-bodies with them on, and when I took them off, there wasn't one bit of difference they made. They were T-top f-bodies as well.
Hello
I would suggest a set of springs and a good set of shocks! Can't really help you with either of those. But if you are going to be installing lowering springs I will be able to help you recenter the rear end. While suggesting a UMI Performance adjustable pan hard bar! And also a set of sway bars. Below is a link to show you what all we have to offer!
http://umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=124
http://umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=161
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
I would suggest a set of springs and a good set of shocks! Can't really help you with either of those.
But if you are going to be installing lowering springs I will be able to help you recenter the rear end. While suggesting a UMI Performance adjustable pan hard bar! And also a set of sway bars. Below is a link to show you what all we have to offer!http://umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=124
http://umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=161
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad