Spohn Suspension
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On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: West Side of East Gish
Spohn Suspension I put in my quick performance 9" rear end and gutted all the stock rear suspension and replaced it all with Spohn.
I have their LCA's, Crossover with 1 safety loop, Adjustable Torque arm, pro series drag swaybar and QA1 DA rears.
Here's the problem. Ever since I installed all of this I keep getting a clunk everytime I shift gears. It almost sounds like the TA is slamming up on that knuckle. I don't think it's the driveshaft. Even at speed of less than 10 mph it freaking clunks. Nothing even looks close either so I have no clue as to what the hell it could be besides that knuckle.
Any ideas?
The area I have circled is where I think its coming from. I'm getting ready to chuck it and install a BMR on that attaches to the stock location.
I have their LCA's, Crossover with 1 safety loop, Adjustable Torque arm, pro series drag swaybar and QA1 DA rears.
Here's the problem. Ever since I installed all of this I keep getting a clunk everytime I shift gears. It almost sounds like the TA is slamming up on that knuckle. I don't think it's the driveshaft. Even at speed of less than 10 mph it freaking clunks. Nothing even looks close either so I have no clue as to what the hell it could be besides that knuckle.
Any ideas?
The area I have circled is where I think its coming from. I'm getting ready to chuck it and install a BMR on that attaches to the stock location.
Make sure that all of the bolts are tight. Most of the time it is coming from that front attachment point. If you do decide to go with a full length arm give ma a call. Also something else to consider is a torque arm relocation bracket. It will save your tranny tailshaft from breaking and it has some added adjustment holes in the front for fine tuning.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: West Side of East Gish
Make sure that all of the bolts are tight. Most of the time it is coming from that front attachment point. If you do decide to go with a full length arm give ma a call. Also something else to consider is a torque arm relocation bracket. It will save your tranny tailshaft from breaking and it has some added adjustment holes in the front for fine tuning.
You can't even get a torque wrench close to the top bolt and I have about every tool they make. When I asked Spohn about this, they just said to get a big ole wrench and pull on it as hard as I can and call it good. I did this. I'm 6'4 240 and I can't get it any tighter and it's still clunking.
Is this the set up you are suggesting? And do you offer it for 9" rears?
I wouldn't use that setup unless the car is going to see alot of track time. If your car runs 9's or slower our full length are will work just fine. The extreme set up will work on a street car but it is overkill. This is the one i was suggesting.
I had that torque arm and it just clunks... I don't think there is anything wrong with it, its just going to clunk. Unless you modify the thing to use a bushing I don't see how you will get it out of the car. I also tightened it as much as I could and it didn't get rid of it.
The biggest reason is not the fact that there is play, its that you no longer have anything insulating the car from the clunking noise. That mount is transmitting even the slightest noise straight through the floor pan and into the seat of your pants. Its all metal to metal contact. So even the smallest amount of play is going to sound like a big clunk.
And you won't get the play out without installing a bushing or some kind of rod end or tightening the thing until it can't move (which it has too for the suspension to work... so that one's out). Even if you got all the play out, you'd still have a lot of extra noise from all the solid mounts.
I eventually replaced mine with one that still mounts to the tailshaft (so you always have the trans mount to insulate). My car is way to slow to need anything more anyway. If I had a heavy track use or track only car I would have kept it, but it wasn't worth it on the street to me. But it was a very well made piece... just overkill for my car.
The biggest reason is not the fact that there is play, its that you no longer have anything insulating the car from the clunking noise. That mount is transmitting even the slightest noise straight through the floor pan and into the seat of your pants. Its all metal to metal contact. So even the smallest amount of play is going to sound like a big clunk.
And you won't get the play out without installing a bushing or some kind of rod end or tightening the thing until it can't move (which it has too for the suspension to work... so that one's out). Even if you got all the play out, you'd still have a lot of extra noise from all the solid mounts.
I eventually replaced mine with one that still mounts to the tailshaft (so you always have the trans mount to insulate). My car is way to slow to need anything more anyway. If I had a heavy track use or track only car I would have kept it, but it wasn't worth it on the street to me. But it was a very well made piece... just overkill for my car.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: West Side of East Gish
I planned on buying all Spohn front end suspension but now I'm double thinking doing anything.
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Do you think there is any great advantage to having them mounted to the x-member than to the tranny? I have a detroit locker and the clicking around corners doesn't bother me but everytime I switch gears it sound like I'm running over a wookchuck. It's driving me nuts. I have more than 3 grand in the rear end and it pissing me off that it sound like $hit when I shift.
I planned on buying all Spohn front end suspension but now I'm double thinking doing anything.
I planned on buying all Spohn front end suspension but now I'm double thinking doing anything.
The Detroit locker is what is causing all of the clunking. I had one in a street car and swore never again...went with a spool
I am going to have to say any of these suspensions are going to probably amplify the clunk. The relocation mount with the full length torque arm is still much quieter than the floor pan mounted arms.If you have any other questions regarding any of our product line feel free to ask
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: West Side of East Gish
The Detroit locker is what is causing all of the clunking. I had one in a street car and swore never again...went with a spool I am going to have to say any of these suspensions are going to probably amplify the clunk. The relocation mount with the full length torque arm is still much quieter than the floor pan mounted arms.
If you have any other questions regarding any of our product line feel free to ask
I am going to have to say any of these suspensions are going to probably amplify the clunk. The relocation mount with the full length torque arm is still much quieter than the floor pan mounted arms.If you have any other questions regarding any of our product line feel free to ask
No it's not the detroit locker. I've had them i the past and know they make noise but this is a different noise. I saw on in this months Camaro magazine that said it was a BMR torque arm locator and it was welded into the subframe connectors and had several holes the torque arm could bolt into, amybe 5 holes up and down. Is this a product you guys still sell?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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From: West Side of East Gish
If you can't find the magazine or it would be easier for you, I can send you a pic. Let me know.
spohn torque arm If that is a picture of ur car ' 2 things . 1 : With a 9" the two bolt holes towards the drivers side should be used to mount the arm to the rear end . that one is mounted incorectly. The passenger side bolt holes are for a 12 or 10 bolt . wont make any diff with the clunking , but might get better grab.
2 : The clunking is the front bracket pivoting from front to back or vice a versa and coming to the end of its travel . You can use the silicone grease that they recomend . cut some squares out of the last tires you burned off n put them between the pads on the cross member and floorboard .
You will notice it will STILL clunk . It might not be as loud .
I just tell my freinds its the ladder bars hitting the stops to keep the wheels planted on the ground . They never ask again .
2 : The clunking is the front bracket pivoting from front to back or vice a versa and coming to the end of its travel . You can use the silicone grease that they recomend . cut some squares out of the last tires you burned off n put them between the pads on the cross member and floorboard .
You will notice it will STILL clunk . It might not be as loud .
I just tell my freinds its the ladder bars hitting the stops to keep the wheels planted on the ground . They never ask again .
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: West Side of East Gish
2 : The clunking is the front bracket pivoting from front to back or vice a versa and coming to the end of its travel . You can use the silicone grease that they recomend . cut some squares out of the last tires you burned off n put them between the pads on the cross member and floorboard .
You will notice it will STILL clunk . It might not be as loud .
You will notice it will STILL clunk . It might not be as loud .
Like T-hawk said I had a body mounted torque arm too. Clunked no matter how much I tightened it. Sold it a week after I installed it. Got a trans mounted TA and never looked back. Don't see enough track time to justify the noise. I then tried a TA relocation mount to mount it on the tranny crossmember and that clunked as well. It makes a nice paper weight now. I don't think switching brands will make any difference either.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 146
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From: West Side of East Gish
Like T-hawk said I had a body mounted torque arm too. Clunked no matter how much I tightened it. Sold it a week after I installed it. Got a trans mounted TA and never looked back. Don't see enough track time to justify the noise. I then tried a TA relocation mount to mount it on the tranny crossmember and that clunked as well. It makes a nice paper weight now. I don't think switching brands will make any difference either.
How much power are you putting out? Just curious.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2006
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A guy on another forum said that he fixed the clunking by using a different bolt, here's a link. http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/su...arm-clunk.html
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 146
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From: West Side of East Gish
A guy on another forum said that he fixed the clunking by using a different bolt, here's a link. http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/su...arm-clunk.html
, so I'm going to buy a couple of long shouldered bolts and cut them down so only the shoulder is inside the bushing. 
