71-Camaro-98

iTrader: (17)

So what does a guy need to do to keep his caliper on the car for crying out loud... My rear passenger caliper fell off about 1 month ago(https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...help-asap.html)... I went got some new bolts put on some RED Loctite and called it good. Now even with the red loctite on it fall off again.. This time I was literally stuck, the caliper was wedged against my wheel so I had to get under the car in the middle of the road with an officer behind me directing traffic.. Luckily I had one of the spare bolts in the car and put it on. It got me home and the bolt was already almost out by the time I got there(I used the e-brake the whole way.) What could be causing these bolts to be backing out?? The only reason I can come up with is my two drag packs I have in each rear spring. I have them to keep my wheels from hitting my rear quarter panels but it does make for a bumpy ride... If I were to take those out or even deflate them to smooth out the ride would that eliminate this issue? I dont know what else to do. Any advice is appreciated.

JamRWS6

You are holding the sleeve when tightening the bolts, right?

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

+2, takes two wrenches to tighten those,, the inner pin has two flat edges that you hold with a wrench, while you tighten the bolt with another wrench. Be careful not to rip your boot holding that pin. I cant remember the sizes.

71-Camaro-98

iTrader: (17)

Well let me clarify that this time it was my upper abutment bracket bolt that came loose and it just pivoted on the bottom bolt and that how it got wedged. So there isn't even a sleeve to hold onto for that bolt, just the bolt itself...

JamRWS6

If that hole isn't stripped and the bolt is the correct size there is no reason it would come loose, especially w/ loctite. These are stock brackets, calipers, and bolts?

71-Camaro-98

iTrader: (17)

yep, stock everything.. I knew there was no reason it should back out, and no the hole is not stripped. Like I said I have very heavy vibration in the rear because of the drag packs, but I dont want to use anything heavier than red loctite or else I will never be able to get my brakes off if I do (and it works)... So I guess I will get back under there and recheck/tighten everything and use red loctite again and just hope it works. I am also going to deflate my air bags to almost 0ps1 so the ride will be not nearly as harsh. Hopefully that works.

darknessxyz

iTrader: (22)

I'll get a new guide pin and bolt from the DEALER and see what happen. I don't even use locktite on the brake (I know I should) and never had any problem.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Loctite, or some other brand threadlocker is must. There is threadlocker on the bolts from GM, and it's often enough to hold stuff tight, but you can't rely on it. Threadlocker, threadlocker, threadlocker.

99monguse

Hmmm. I just did my rear brakes on my 98 Z28 and I just used a single ratchet to tighten the caliper bolts(was the 1st time I ever did brakes); did I do something wrong? I tightened the bolts as tight as I could and so far I havn't had any problems.

71-Camaro-98

iTrader: (17)

I think I will go to the dealer and get those tomorrow just so I am sure I am getting what I need.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Sometimes the slide pins won't rotate too much and you'll be able to tighten it down.

JamRWS6

First time I did them I put threadlocker on them. Second time I didn't use threadlocker and after the most recent change I can't tell any difference with or without. Bolts stayed very snug.

darknessxyz

iTrader: (22)

Yea, I know, I know, I know.

I'm trying to make myself using them from now on. The only problem is to clean up the god damn bolt b4 you can re-use them.

Major_Lee_Slow

iTrader: (1)

Yes if you reuse the bolt the threads have to be cleaned up. I throw just a little heat at them to scorch the old thread locker and then I clean it off with a wire brush. If there is any residual oil, thread locker or random crap the adhesive can't/won't bond between the two threads. i.e you have to clean the female threads out as well which is easy to do on the caliper bracket threads but not so easy to do on the caliper guide pin bolts therefore I replace them every time I do a break job.

It's also very very important to tighten these bolts down to their proper spec. 75 ft*lbs for the caliper bracket bolts and 27 ft*lbs for the caliper guide pin bolts.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Heh, I just crank the bolts down with a ratchet until they are snug...

some_punk

check the axle seals, my old v6 had the calipers fall off due the seals failing and leaking onto the bolts, causing them to walk out.

71-Camaro-98

iTrader: (17)

Well.. I didnt see any fluid and since the dealer wants over $100 for bolts and pins (and non of them in stock) I am just going to use what I have.

darknessxyz

iTrader: (22)

You've got to be fxxking kidding me!!! $100 for the bolts and pins? I'm sure the three GM parts sponsors here can help you out.

SmokedOutZ28

iTrader: (35)

$100???? Your getting robbed!

My dealer charged me $40 for new bolts (Front & rear) & pins but they did have to be ordered.

But I agree with major make sure you tq them down, I had a bolt come off completely and I thought I had them tight enough by hand.

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

i think it was more like 3-4 dollars per bolt when i got them about a year ago