brian_rs/ss

ok so since day 1 with my SS i have had traction issues. hooking from a dig is a joke. even when it was bone stock. but now its got bolt ons, LT's, TD's, and a cam. and im just getting started with the mods i want. i still want heads, a FAST 90/90, gears etc etc. so my question is, before i add any more hp to the equation what should i do suspension wise to hook and/or eleminate wheel hop? my thought was rear sway bar and a panhard bar. but i have no clue what size sway bar to run. or to do adj. or non-adj. panhard. which btw i plan on staying stock ride height.

2000Z28M6

iTrader: (13)

Are we talking about a 4th gen or 1st?

brian_rs/ss

oh my bad, 4th gen. i have both but in this case a 4th gen ss m6.

and i guess i should also specify that i don't plan on anything much past 400rwhp. no plans to autocross but i would like cornering performance. and it will have the occasional trip to the drag strip. and like i mentioned before stock ride height.

wtomlinson

iTrader: (6)

lower control arms. make a big difference for wheel hop. someone correct me if i'm wrong, but aren't the adjustable LCAs/PHB only REQUIRED when you lower due to the change of the angles?

if you read in the suspension FAQs, it tells what each part does. so if you're really needing to center your rear end, then get an adjustable. mine was only off by a few 16ths of an inch, plus i can't really adjust mine because there's no nuts welded on to move it.

i have an adj PHB because it came with the package, someone on here custom made it. beware if you decide to go for the rod-ended parts, stand by for some road noise. my PHB rattles like crazy (metal on metal bushings). it's ok though, because when i open it up my TDs kinda take over every other sound on the car.

once again, this is everything that i've read on here since i've been modding so if i'm wrong, someone please chime in.

Taken4granted

What are your goals for suspension? Is it going to be street or drag?

MurderedOut

iTrader: (21)

LCAs(and relocation brackets) arent just for after lowering, they can be used anytime, and make a big difference!

wtomlinson

iTrader: (6)

Lower Control Arms
LCAs are very important for several reasons. They control wheel hop -- the violent bouncing of your tires as they try to grab traction. And as weight transfers from the front to the back, the LCAs apply downward pressure to the axle housing, planting the tires and aiding in traction.

Torque Arm
The TQ arm does a few vital things for your whole setup. 1. It (along with the LCAs) is the pushing point for your rear end. 2. It acts as a ladder system to assist in weight transfer. 3. It can affect and change the pinion angle of the driveshaft as well. If you intend to race a lot, then you want a chassis-mount torque arm, not a tranny-mount torque arm.

Rear Sway Bar
As the power of your motor is translated through your drivetrain, it create a natural torque to one side; that is, the body tries to twist to one side. A drag solid-end-link rear sway bar, will combat this effect and assist you leaving the line straight and true.

Pan-Hard Bar
As power is sent violently to your rear, the rear end has a natural tendency to move side to side (known to some as the traction shimmy). Your pan-hard bar combats this. If you get an adjustable one, then you can also use it to center your rear end.

all this quoted from the "So you wanna be fast..." thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/3307603-post13.html

wtomlinson

iTrader: (6)

i didn't mean only put them on after lowering, i was referring to adjustables. how much of a difference is there if you put on non-adj LCAs on at ride height, vs adj LCAs / relo brackets at ride height?

brian_rs/ss

deffinately street. it'll probly never even see a set of DR's. but it will make the occasional pass down the strip.

so LCA's would help the wheel hop? and another thing, it seems like everytime my tires spin i get torqued way out of shape. even on flat ground.

brian_rs/ss

ok that helps alot wtomlinson. thanks for the info.

Taken4granted

Lowering your car will give you better cornering performance than a car on stock height and everyone will tell you that. LCAs will help with your wheel hop, PHB will center your rear, helps with bigger tires, shocks! That depends on you QA1 has great drag shocks, and Koni has great street shocks

wtomlinson

iTrader: (6)

no problem. i'm DEFINITELY NOT a suspension guru so this is about all i know. there's some susp. saavy people around here if you have any detailed questions.

brian_rs/ss

yeah my mustang was lowered and had SFC's, CC plates, and koni's. but i really never came across a real world situation where that was practical. and in most cases it was more of a PITA than it was worth. constantly dragging my exhaust, or bottoming out on the SFC's, or scraping the nose etc etc. soooo ive concluded that the camaro is low enough for me. especially since it already drags the TD's over speed bumps.

so what i think i am going to go with is a solid non-adj LCA(prob. hotchkis), the 32/22 sway bar package from SPOHN, and QA1's out back. but what do u guys think about SFC's and maybe strut tower bars? worth the $$$ or not?

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

If I were in your situation, personally I would look into the Strano spec bilstiens first. See if you still get wheel hop. Then look at other options like LCA relo brackets, lca's, etc...

My mindset is your only going once or twice a year and that's your daily driver and won't have a set of DR's. What's the point of spending tons of cash to make yourself faster at going from point A to point B and possibly sacrificing ride quality?

brian_rs/ss

haha dude im 21 y/o i dont give a rats @$$ about ride quality my main concern is getting the power to the ground, and i would really prefer not to lower this car. its too nice in my eyes and i dont want to hurt my baby.

edit: strano? i keep seeing that word pop up what is this strano you speak of?

Taken4granted

He who goes by the name of "Strano" is god

brian_rs/ss

lol so i should google god?

Taken4granted

No need to google him, he has a number and his own website too. Www.stranoparts.com give Sam a call he'll answer your questions and help you in the direction you need to go

brian_rs/ss

sweet, just looked at his website and its full of good stuff. thanks

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hello
I just figured that I would chime in and suggest a few suspension parts to you going off of the mods that you have done to the vehicle already. Below is my list and explanation for each reason!

1- Full length adjustable torque arm! You will not have any clearance issues with your exhaust and will still have the adjustment to set your pinion angle.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...pn8vidf95j6sa2

2- Non Adjustable Rear Suspension Package! Seeing how are you keeping the vehicle at stock ride height. You will eliminate the flexing of the control arms and ours have Energy Suspension grease able bushings.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...pn8vidf95j6sa2

3- I would suggest going with a set of Lower control arm relocation brackets.
They allow you to adjust your lower control arms more parallel with the ground therefore eliminating any wheel hoping issues and increasing your traction performance! We offer 2 versions a weld on and a bolt on.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...pn8vidf95j6sa2

4- I would suggest a set of Sub Frame Connectors. They will help keep the vehicle solid and eliminate any twisting or flexing and keep the dimples off of the rear quarter panels.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...pn8vidf95j6sa2

Like I have mentioned before this is just a few suggestions. And if you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.

Thanks
Brad