SSIRBY

iTrader: (44)

well i found some brand new for a good deal and told my buddy about them but said "you dont need them"...

so, what i'm wondering, why "dont i need them". i thought they look nice and were for a purpose.

so someone tell me about these rotors.

JD_AMG

Read the brake FAQ:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...brake-faq.html
This can be a touchy topic, but you certainly don't "need" them by any means. The holes are supposed to vent "gasses", but modern day pads don't gas like old ones.
Road racers use good pads + good blank rotors and they will see WAY WAY more abuse than a street/drag car.

Arctic2002ss

No, most of brake performance increase is in the pads. I have seen dramatic changes in just switching pads. Just get some quality rotors and they will be fine. I have Powerslots and don't know that the slots do much but like them because they can take a lot of abuse.

Lt14mla

iTrader: (2)

they are simply comestic. Depending on the use of your car, it may not make sense to get them.

transwiz

iTrader: (26)

Ya, this is a touchy one all right.I use baer eradispeed(drilled and slotted rotors) with gm pads.They worth every penny.The car stops on a dime.I can't tell you how many times they saved my ***.With 408 rwhp it is worth the money for really good brakes.It all
depends on how much you want to spend and how you drive your car.You have to be happy with your car not mine.Food for thought.
_________________________
2000 t/a ws6 with lots of mods

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

You don't need them. I suggest the FAQ as well.

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

theoretically that setup should be worse than stock. the holes and slots take away surface area. also chews up pads faster and makes them more prone to cracking. i bet if you used the money you spent on those rotors towards a GOOD set of pads and just stuck with plain old boring blank rotors you'd be even happier. my stock pads were complete garbage from over 100. they also had extremely noticeable fade. right now i'm running autozones ceramic pads and they are leaps and bounds better than stock, and i'm sure hawks or ebc's are far better than these. glad you're happy and having good luck with your setup though.

in my opinion:

if all you want is looks go drilled/slotted

if you want a balance of good looks and good braking go slotted

and if you want all out braking just go with blanks

transwiz

iTrader: (26)

Well I had better pads and good rotors and the car didn't stop like it does now.You get a lot of opinions on here,I guess it all about what makes you happy.If you want get the better pads and good rotors,It's still a good setup.It is all about what's going to make you happy and that's what counts.Ask a question you'll get a lot of answers.I know more than a few other guys that run the same setup.People who say that slotted and drilled rotors are overpriced have never tried them.Like I said the other setup is also good too.
__________________________
2000 t/a ws6

SSIRBY

iTrader: (44)

i guess i'm just gonna get new regular rotors and really good pads. thanks for the input. i kind of wanted the looks but that doesnt really matter. i'll be driving my car a lot more now.

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

interesting, i guess you get a very nice blend of looks and performance then haha

KILLER-LS1

iTrader: (18)

i hate this debate hahah yes they crack easier. but on a streetcar, it probably doesnt matter. Also ive used both blank, drilled/slotted, drilled only, slotted only on my car (i like to change for the look) and ive noticed that the drilled rotors are less prone to warping. when i bought the car it had blanks put on it a few weeks before and the guy drove it like a grandma previously. In the first day i warped the rotors put drilled/slotted ones on and drove the same windy road and didnt warp them. Ive never had any drilled rotors have structural cracks. You might see small hairline ones but they are just cosmetic according to the manufacurer.

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

A cosmetic crack? Whoa - talk about "marketing spin". If the metal is cracking, then the metal is cracking.

The Double S

I'm in the same boat. I have the Baer Eradispeed drilled and slotted rotors/calipers as well. Corvette rotors/calipers up front and Camaro rotors/calipers in the rear. I use EBC pads though. I have to agree I very much like this setup. I have not had any other setup on the car since ive bought it though. I can say on previous cars i've owned, I have felt that pads definitely make the brake performance much more apparent. On the other hand, IMO nothing looks better than a set of drilled and slotted rotors. And like therealcreeper said "a very nice blend of looks and performance."

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

The key here isn't just with "plain" vs. "drilled, slotted, drilled& slotted, dimpled, etc.", but also with the overall mass of the rotor, its metallic compounds (if not high-dollar composite), and the quality control in manufacturing.

Whilst I've seen lots of those fancy "drilled, slotted, etc." rotors crack easier than many blanks, using a poorly made blank rotor with insufficient mass can warp and crack very easily too.

Nevertheless, I've seen lots more "drilled, slotted, drilled & slotted, etc." cracked with overall street use than I have seen with even cheap and nasty blanks. Only the quality blanks I've seen have appeared to resist this much more.

With all of that stated, the better rotors I've found for the 4th Gen F-body are:

• Brembo blanks (not so much anymore since I too have seen some poorly made lots lately)
  
• Ate rotors (even though it has an "atom shaped slot" it's more more of a wear indicator making the rotor actually more "blank like")

EDIT: using a pad that's worn and/or has a poor compound will almost always make for terrible braking regardless of the quality of the rotor.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

running drilled rotors is like banging hookers without a bag. you could be fine, but would you want to take that chance?

KILLER-LS1

iTrader: (18)

yea thats what I said but they told me that those surface cracks are only cosmetic and are in no way a safety or stopping concern. Apparently the only cracks to worry about are the ones that are in the center of the rotor face not touching any holes, or when they extend to the edge of the rotor.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Whoever to told you that is highly misinformed. Even cracks that aren't absolutely visible to the "naked eye" can be severely dangerous.

With that stated, it's practically impossible to absolutely avoid ALL of these types of structural failures on even the "best" rotors, however it's wise not to underestimate ANY visible cracks on any disc brake rotors.

SSIRBY

iTrader: (44)

so just get some really good blanks and pads and be done with it huh. i'm keeping stock calipers so just in case i get another set of drag wheels that need caliper grinding, i wont have to.

ohio96ss

I've had powerslots on my 96 impala for ten years,stops better than stock.No cracks,I've replaced the pads twice never touched the rotors no warp.The stock rotors warp and need turned ever pad change and they rust and look like **** with my centerlines.The powerslots have 100,000 on them, no rust never turned.

SSIRBY

iTrader: (44)

wow. i guess some folks just have good luck with them.