hlaalu

iTrader: (3)

I want to drop my car about an inch, so I would need a shorter panhard bar, correct? I have a tubular one from UMI and my question is, has anyone made their own adjustable panhard bar from a standard one?

I was thinking of Just cutting mine in half, towards one end, and either welding some nuts on the ends, or just thread the tube if it's thick enough, then use a threaded rod and adjust accordingly.

Thoughts?

hlaalu

iTrader: (3)

no one creative in here?

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

When you drop, you need to recenter the rear with an adj. bar. Would I recommend cutting yours? I wouldnt.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Pre-threaded rod is stoopid cheap at dirt track shops. My aluminum, threaded, home-made PHB shaft was only about $16.

It's not hard, nor expensive to roll-yer-own PHB or LCAs.

What's difficult is getting the correct spacers. A rod end is a LOT narrower than the factory mount. And just shimming causes articulation inteference of the rod end.

Best to sell what you got and buy a new piece (UMI).

MHO ...

97pontta

iTrader: (10)

I've made my own but not from an existing one. I don't think the tube wall thickness is enough to support an ID thread and would be too weak if threaded even if you could find a standard size tap that would work. I copied what the other aftermarket companies have done, make a steel insert that will fit inside the tube that had an ID threaded hole with one having right had threads and one with left. Then made a solid steel adjusting shaft that had a hex in the middle of right/left hand threads so it could be adjusted on the car.

I'm not too fond of welding nuts on the end of the tube either, you then are putting all the force of the joint on the weld holding the nut to the tube. When using a steel insert you can have 2-3 inches inserted into the tube with a tight fit, this give you much more strength and support. You wouldn't want a weld failure when enjoying a nice corner.


Here is a pic of the one I built.

hlaalu

iTrader: (3)

that looks great. how long are the steal inserts?

97pontta

iTrader: (10)

They are about 4 inches long each, about 3 inches fits inside of the tubing. They are drilled through with one having 3/4-16 RH and the other insert is 3/4-16 LH threads.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

If you wanted to make our panhard bar adjustable you would need to buy what we call tube adapters or threaded bungs. They weld into the tubing reducing the size and adding threads. You would need a right and left hand one made for 1.250 x 0.095" tubing. You will also need an adjuster with right and left hand threads to adjust it.

I could sell you all the items to do this for $40.00 plus shipping. It would require you to cut a chunk out and weld in the adapters. The adapters are machined from 4140 so they need to be TIG welded as well. The item would then look like this- www.umiperformance.com/2029

Hope that helps,
Ryan

hlaalu

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the advice, I like how it has the poly bushings on the both sides. I love my UMI panhard bar (we've been through a lot together), but after seeing your prices for new adj. ones, I might as well buy a new one.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Sounds great! And glad I could help... But I don't know if our panhard bar will bolt up to a Ford 10"

94TRANS

iTrader: (39)

i bought one of UMI's on car adjustable PHB's and it is very nice piece. easy to adjust, great quality and damn good prices they have!