Brake fluid?
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Western North Carolina
Brake fluid? Just wanted to see what you guys was using. I'm thinking about using the ATE Super Blue or the ATE Type 200.Is this compatible with my 1997 Z28? I assume that dot4 is better than dot3.One liter enough to do a flush?Thanks
BTW,anyone know the size of the brake bleeder screw on the caliper?
BTW,anyone know the size of the brake bleeder screw on the caliper?
Last edited by Red97LT1; Jun 21, 2010 at 06:38 PM.
ATE superblue works great, that's what I'm running! Make sure to drain out all of your old fluid of course (even though I believe you can mix it with dot3)
Not sure on the bolt size, I need to find out myself for re-painting my calipers..
Not sure on the bolt size, I need to find out myself for re-painting my calipers..
ive used super blue for a few years now and still would get nothing else. im pretty sure the Type 200 is the same as the Blue except it is brown which makes bleeding the brakes fully alot easier.
also, what i had to do a few times was when i bled the brakes, i took it out and got up to 50-60 and then hammered the brake pedal setting off the ABS. then went back and bled the brakes one more time. never had an issue with air in the lines this way.
also, what i had to do a few times was when i bled the brakes, i took it out and got up to 50-60 and then hammered the brake pedal setting off the ABS. then went back and bled the brakes one more time. never had an issue with air in the lines this way.
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma U.S.A.
The bleeder screws on stock calipers are 10mm i believe and i would recommend you go with the super blue or even a good dot4 fluid. Dot4 is a better choice since it has a boiling point almost 100 degrees higher than dot 3 and the two can be switched between or mixed. (although mixing diminishes the benefit)
Superblue is only like $12 or $13 bucks a liter at Summit so it's worth the few extra bucks. One liter is enough to do everything, and that is with going around and bleeding them twice to get all the old fluid out. I even spilled a bunch when i was putting on some steel lines and still had lots of fluid with just one liter. (FYI, the traction control lines are a pain in the *** to do without a lift) And its not just the temp control of the fluid, it's the fluids ability to resist absorbing water or humidity out of the air. Over time, the fluid absorbs a little bit of water through the air and that's why you need to bleed them and replace the fluid on a periodic basis even if you don't do a bunch of autocross or roadracing. The water that creeps into the fluid is what makes it not work well cause the water compresses more than the brake fluid. The good fluid is relatively cheap and worth the money. If you're going to bleed the brakes and change the fluid, it makes sense to spend a few extra bucks and get the good stuff. You usually get what you pay for.
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Launching!
Joined: Oct 2009
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I feel the most import consideration regarding fluid type is to change your fluid often.
You should be changing it at least every 2 years. As brake fluid ages, its wet boiling point is lowered due to condensation/water from absorption. Your brake system can be compromised as well as increased corrosion occurring from the water.
You should be changing it at least every 2 years. As brake fluid ages, its wet boiling point is lowered due to condensation/water from absorption. Your brake system can be compromised as well as increased corrosion occurring from the water.
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