Did a rear swap now the ebrake sweaks
#1
Did a rear swap now the ebrake sweaks
So I changed out my 10 bolt for another 10 bolt with 4.10 gears and now the ebrake squeaks two times for every one rotation of the wheel. It's catching on the two nubs on the inside cup of the rotor. Its only on the passenger side and I already tried adjusting the ebrake to be as loose as possible (therefore would not come in contact with the rotor as it spins.
Pleasee help I tried everything except sanding it down..I don't want to have to do that. Also it doesn't look like the rotor is bent whatsoever. I spin it and it seems 100% fine.
Pleasee help I tried everything except sanding it down..I don't want to have to do that. Also it doesn't look like the rotor is bent whatsoever. I spin it and it seems 100% fine.
#5
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So I changed out my 10 bolt for another 10 bolt with 4.10 gears and now the ebrake squeaks two times for every one rotation of the wheel. It's catching on the two nubs on the inside cup of the rotor. Its only on the passenger side and I already tried adjusting the ebrake to be as loose as possible (therefore would not come in contact with the rotor as it spins.
Pleasee help I tried everything except sanding it down..I don't want to have to do that. Also it doesn't look like the rotor is bent whatsoever. I spin it and it seems 100% fine.
Pleasee help I tried everything except sanding it down..I don't want to have to do that. Also it doesn't look like the rotor is bent whatsoever. I spin it and it seems 100% fine.
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#15
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Have you tried adjusting your Ebrake? Also check the new rearend's backing plate, theres a lip that the rotor actually goes over and if bent it can cause noise.
I've had the same problem as you and I did those two things and it fixed it. Normaly when moving a rearend around those backing plates will get bent a little.
I've had the same problem as you and I did those two things and it fixed it. Normaly when moving a rearend around those backing plates will get bent a little.
#16
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Have you tried adjusting your Ebrake? Also check the new rearend's backing plate, theres a lip that the rotor actually goes over and if bent it can cause noise.
I've had the same problem as you and I did those two things and it fixed it. Normaly when moving a rearend around those backing plates will get bent a little.
I've had the same problem as you and I did those two things and it fixed it. Normaly when moving a rearend around those backing plates will get bent a little.
#18
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Now that I think of it, is it possible your ebrake cable is too taught? I'm not familiar with the mechanism, but I'm pretty sure it can be adjusted near the handle. Maybe if its let out a bit up there, it won't be pulling on the drum and causing the noise? Just throwing out ideas at this point. Maybe someone more familiar with these ebrake systems can chime in and offer insight
#19
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The adjustment is all behind the rotor. Each side is adjusted at a star wheel independently only while the rotor is off.
Is the backing plate tight? Maybe the hooked-up cable is twisting the plate a bit?
When the cable is on/off, there should be no difference in the position of the e-brake mechanism until the handle is pulled. (unless its out of adjustment) When the inside handle is down, you should have several mm of free play in the lever that comes out of the backing plate. If not, maybe the new rear end has changed the geometry of the cable and its now too short?
Is the backing plate tight? Maybe the hooked-up cable is twisting the plate a bit?
When the cable is on/off, there should be no difference in the position of the e-brake mechanism until the handle is pulled. (unless its out of adjustment) When the inside handle is down, you should have several mm of free play in the lever that comes out of the backing plate. If not, maybe the new rear end has changed the geometry of the cable and its now too short?
#20
Put some sort of film like a lite grease or something on all the parts in question and turn the rotor. Try to detect the contact this way. Make sure you clean all the substance off really good with brake parts cleaner after wards though.
Honestly If you are getting two noises per revolution I would have to say that there is a low or out of round spot on the inside machined area of the rotor that is hitting the highest point of the brake shoes each time it pass's. Maybe this helps.
Honestly If you are getting two noises per revolution I would have to say that there is a low or out of round spot on the inside machined area of the rotor that is hitting the highest point of the brake shoes each time it pass's. Maybe this helps.