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Did a rear swap now the ebrake sweaks

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Old 08-23-2010, 09:43 PM
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Default Did a rear swap now the ebrake sweaks

So I changed out my 10 bolt for another 10 bolt with 4.10 gears and now the ebrake squeaks two times for every one rotation of the wheel. It's catching on the two nubs on the inside cup of the rotor. Its only on the passenger side and I already tried adjusting the ebrake to be as loose as possible (therefore would not come in contact with the rotor as it spins.

Pleasee help I tried everything except sanding it down..I don't want to have to do that. Also it doesn't look like the rotor is bent whatsoever. I spin it and it seems 100% fine.
Old 08-24-2010, 07:31 AM
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are you sure it's not a bearing?
Old 08-24-2010, 12:48 PM
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subscribing as my car makes the same noise.
Old 08-25-2010, 12:03 AM
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Yeah it's not a bearing because today I tried unhooking the cable from the ebrake and its a lot quieter. However, it still does it when turning but no where near as bad.

Some pleasseeee helpp it's driving me crazy
Old 08-25-2010, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by caseypryan
So I changed out my 10 bolt for another 10 bolt with 4.10 gears and now the ebrake squeaks two times for every one rotation of the wheel. It's catching on the two nubs on the inside cup of the rotor. Its only on the passenger side and I already tried adjusting the ebrake to be as loose as possible (therefore would not come in contact with the rotor as it spins.

Pleasee help I tried everything except sanding it down..I don't want to have to do that. Also it doesn't look like the rotor is bent whatsoever. I spin it and it seems 100% fine.
Not sure of the two "nubs" you are talking about. Do you have a picture? Are they new rotors? If not, do your old rotors have nubs?
Old 08-25-2010, 09:38 PM
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My car is making the same noise from the passenger side rear. Hoping it is not a bearing or a bent axle...
Old 08-25-2010, 10:05 PM
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my car sure doesn't sound like it has a bad bearing. It just sounds like the rotor is scraping the e-brake drum while it turns.
Old 08-26-2010, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by qwikz28
my car sure doesn't sound like it has a bad bearing. It just sounds like the rotor is scraping the e-brake drum while it turns.
Same here. It's not a bearing because the rear end didn't do it when the rotor was off. Just as soon as I put the rotor on. I'll try to take a picture of the nubs
Old 08-26-2010, 02:23 PM
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Here is the picture. The new rotor only has two of the nubs though
Attached Thumbnails Did a rear swap now the ebrake sweaks-rotor.jpg  
Old 08-26-2010, 05:19 PM
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Not sure what those nubs are. Balancing weights? I thought those were only put on the outside of the rotors/drums...
Old 08-26-2010, 05:30 PM
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casey- what kind of rotors are those? I have brembo blanks but never really checked inside to see if anything was in there.
Old 08-26-2010, 08:53 PM
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My car does it too. The noise stops when I hit the brakes.
Old 08-26-2010, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron_L
My car does it too. The noise stops when I hit the brakes.
You probably have a bearing problem, then.
Old 08-27-2010, 01:24 PM
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Mine does it all the time but now it has stopped because I unhooked the ebrake cable. Those are the factory rotors. But the after market ones have them as well. But two instead of 3.
Old 08-27-2010, 02:57 PM
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Have you tried adjusting your Ebrake? Also check the new rearend's backing plate, theres a lip that the rotor actually goes over and if bent it can cause noise.

I've had the same problem as you and I did those two things and it fixed it. Normaly when moving a rearend around those backing plates will get bent a little.
Old 08-27-2010, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackSS2001
Have you tried adjusting your Ebrake? Also check the new rearend's backing plate, theres a lip that the rotor actually goes over and if bent it can cause noise.

I've had the same problem as you and I did those two things and it fixed it. Normaly when moving a rearend around those backing plates will get bent a little.
Same problem on my old Camry. Can't believe I never thought to check this. You are a genius.
Old 08-27-2010, 04:07 PM
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Yeah I adjusted it all the way so the rotor would fit over it. Is there a way to bend it back if its bent? and If that was the case then why would unhooking the ebrake cause the noise to stop? I'll check regardless thank you for the advice.
Old 08-27-2010, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by caseypryan
Yeah I adjusted it all the way so the rotor would fit over it. Is there a way to bend it back if its bent? and If that was the case then why would unhooking the ebrake cause the noise to stop? I'll check regardless thank you for the advice.
its very thin metal. Unhooking the ebrake and the noise going away leads me to believe this isn't your problem. Definitely worth taking a look though.

Now that I think of it, is it possible your ebrake cable is too taught? I'm not familiar with the mechanism, but I'm pretty sure it can be adjusted near the handle. Maybe if its let out a bit up there, it won't be pulling on the drum and causing the noise? Just throwing out ideas at this point. Maybe someone more familiar with these ebrake systems can chime in and offer insight
Old 08-27-2010, 05:45 PM
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The adjustment is all behind the rotor. Each side is adjusted at a star wheel independently only while the rotor is off.

Is the backing plate tight? Maybe the hooked-up cable is twisting the plate a bit?

When the cable is on/off, there should be no difference in the position of the e-brake mechanism until the handle is pulled. (unless its out of adjustment) When the inside handle is down, you should have several mm of free play in the lever that comes out of the backing plate. If not, maybe the new rear end has changed the geometry of the cable and its now too short?
Old 08-28-2010, 07:34 PM
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Put some sort of film like a lite grease or something on all the parts in question and turn the rotor. Try to detect the contact this way. Make sure you clean all the substance off really good with brake parts cleaner after wards though.

Honestly If you are getting two noises per revolution I would have to say that there is a low or out of round spot on the inside machined area of the rotor that is hitting the highest point of the brake shoes each time it pass's. Maybe this helps.


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