98 t/a brake wobble
09-07-2010, 02:05 PM
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98 t/a brake wobble i just got my first f body in June and its a 98 t/a and i am loving it. But one thing that is driving me insane is some brake wobble when i am braking. It only mainly does it when i am getting off the interstate and slowing down from 75 or so. i know i am in need of pads but they should still have a month or so in them. is this a common occurrence in 98's or do i have a problem?
we have a 98 suburban that does the same thing so was this just an issue in 98 or what?
we have a 98 suburban that does the same thing so was this just an issue in 98 or what?
09-07-2010, 08:22 PM
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I just got the wheels rotated and balanced thinking that was the problem but it did not do anything for it. it sounds like im going to have to get some rotors.
09-07-2010, 08:52 PM
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My car used to shake when slowing down, especially from higher speeds. After I replaced all the rotors and pads, it was amazing how much easier it was to drive the car, not to mention being tons more fun to drive!
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09-07-2010, 10:15 PM
#8
There is no such thing as "warped" rotors.
Two things happen - the rotors get runout, and runout causes thickness variation. What you feel in the pedal is thickness variation - as the rotor turns, it pushes the pistons back into their bores as the thicker part of the rotor comes around during each revolution. This is what most people percieve as "warpage".
There are things you can do to prevent this from happening in the future. First, buy high quality rotors. Cheap asian castings have poor metallurgy and cannot take the heat cycling that rotors are subject too. A good rotor, such as one from Brembo, is your best bet.
Make sure to bed the pads in. One of the biggest contributors to thickness variation is hitting the brakes hard with pads that aren't bedded in. This puts uneven deposits on the rotor, and causes a pulsation. The pad manufacturer should have specs on how to properly bed in your new pads.
Cooling. Brakes need to be cooled properly in order to work effectively. This means no backing plate, aluminum calipers, high performance (typically semi-metallic pads) and an open spoke wheel design. Luckily, the F-body has many of these things right from the factory.
Two things happen - the rotors get runout, and runout causes thickness variation. What you feel in the pedal is thickness variation - as the rotor turns, it pushes the pistons back into their bores as the thicker part of the rotor comes around during each revolution. This is what most people percieve as "warpage".
There are things you can do to prevent this from happening in the future. First, buy high quality rotors. Cheap asian castings have poor metallurgy and cannot take the heat cycling that rotors are subject too. A good rotor, such as one from Brembo, is your best bet.
Make sure to bed the pads in. One of the biggest contributors to thickness variation is hitting the brakes hard with pads that aren't bedded in. This puts uneven deposits on the rotor, and causes a pulsation. The pad manufacturer should have specs on how to properly bed in your new pads.
Cooling. Brakes need to be cooled properly in order to work effectively. This means no backing plate, aluminum calipers, high performance (typically semi-metallic pads) and an open spoke wheel design. Luckily, the F-body has many of these things right from the factory.
