wheel hop, but i have bolt ons...
#1
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I have: bmr springs, koni's off car adj. set on 2nd from soft, adj phb, relo brackets on lowest hole, staggered 17" and 18" rim, ...
I tried a ~2500-3000 clutch dump, and the car just sat there and rear end shook, scared the hell outa me... why is this happening when i have all this stuff set?
could it be:
-i need better lca's than stock?
-torque arm? (doesnt seem to be busted, and would a low spring really change my pinion angle a lot?)
-try next hole up on relo brackets?
-phb not center?
-my tires were cold when i tried, need to be warm? (probably)
-all bushings seem to be ok...
WHAAA TF is going ON?!
I appreciate any responses! thanks...
I tried a ~2500-3000 clutch dump, and the car just sat there and rear end shook, scared the hell outa me... why is this happening when i have all this stuff set?
could it be:
-i need better lca's than stock?
-torque arm? (doesnt seem to be busted, and would a low spring really change my pinion angle a lot?)
-try next hole up on relo brackets?
-phb not center?
-my tires were cold when i tried, need to be warm? (probably)
-all bushings seem to be ok...
WHAAA TF is going ON?!
I appreciate any responses! thanks...
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#2
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You named a couple of big ones, torque arm and lower control arms. I can speak from experience, with a stock torque arm even on street tires it would flex so much it would hit the tunnel of the car and it wasn't broken or cracked anywhere. Id start with an adjustable torque arm and lca's would also be a good bet.
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sweet... then i can break my 10 bolt right? lol.
thanks for the replies... anything else i should consider?
and for a DD should i get the relocation bracket for off the tail housing?
thanks for the replies... anything else i should consider?
and for a DD should i get the relocation bracket for off the tail housing?
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You say the bushings look ok, are you judging appearance or looking for slack in them? Raising your LCA to the upper hole will NOT help. Any lowering spring will slightly readjust your pinion angle. My properly adjusted UMI adj torque arm made a world of difference for me. I get no wheelhop, and I have stock LCAs on reloc brackets
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#9
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What kind of tires are you running? What shape are they in?
I agree a torque arm would be a worth-while upgrade for help eliminte the wheel hop issues. Wheel hop is one of the big killers on the 10-bolt rear end, if you get any wheel hop push the clutch in as quick as possible to save that rear end..
On daily driver I feel you would be just fine with out the relocation kit, try just the torque arm first and see what you think.
To help answer the other questions, if you go with a transmission mounted torque arm you shouldn't receive an vibrations or harshness. A relocation kit added may add some more road feel to car but is usually a comfortable ride.
If I can help anymore please ask. Thank you!
Ryan
I agree a torque arm would be a worth-while upgrade for help eliminte the wheel hop issues. Wheel hop is one of the big killers on the 10-bolt rear end, if you get any wheel hop push the clutch in as quick as possible to save that rear end..
On daily driver I feel you would be just fine with out the relocation kit, try just the torque arm first and see what you think.
To help answer the other questions, if you go with a transmission mounted torque arm you shouldn't receive an vibrations or harshness. A relocation kit added may add some more road feel to car but is usually a comfortable ride.
If I can help anymore please ask. Thank you!
Ryan
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tires are the older version sumitomo's, 17" 245's in front, 18" 285 in rear. i was impressed to get way more than the 10k miles out of em than everyone was telling me... but im looking to upgrade soon s they have maybe 1/16" tread on them.
im hearing 2 different sides - torque arm before lca's or lca's before torque arm?
and yes i do try and save the rear, as i have already rebuilt it, and it has a pulsating whine again...
im hearing 2 different sides - torque arm before lca's or lca's before torque arm?
and yes i do try and save the rear, as i have already rebuilt it, and it has a pulsating whine again...
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o and the bushings i visually checked, how else can i check them?
i also tried to adjust my phb today, with the car on the ground and in the air, and one nut just isnt budging, any tips/tricks?
i also tried to adjust my phb today, with the car on the ground and in the air, and one nut just isnt budging, any tips/tricks?
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You can really only check the bushing by looking at them and you can pull on the LCAs and see if they move around. The nuts that wont move might be reverse threaded. My vote if for a torque arm. I had horrible wheel hop and I replaced the torque arm with a UMI full length adj one and I haven't had a problem since then
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Not at all. It adds a little firmness to the car, but no harsh vibrations. It's hard to explain I guess. The car feels more solid anyway you push it, but no bad vibes. It definitely has more bite in a launch
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tires are the older version sumitomo's, 17" 245's in front, 18" 285 in rear. i was impressed to get way more than the 10k miles out of em than everyone was telling me... but im looking to upgrade soon s they have maybe 1/16" tread on them.
im hearing 2 different sides - torque arm before lca's or lca's before torque arm?
and yes i do try and save the rear, as i have already rebuilt it, and it has a pulsating whine again...
im hearing 2 different sides - torque arm before lca's or lca's before torque arm?
and yes i do try and save the rear, as i have already rebuilt it, and it has a pulsating whine again...