Car wobbles under hard acceleration above 70
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Its hard to exlpain, I've had a SIMULAR problem on a bagged truck I had and it came out to be the panhard bar.
If im doing 70 or so on the freeway and I nail the throttle, I'll get up to about 90-100 and the *** end starts to sway. ONLY at high MPH does it do this. Doesnt do it any other time. And for some reason the car has HORRIBLE wheel hop from a dead stop.
Its a 98 Z28, Sportline springs.
I was thinking maybe panhard bar? Im lost and I hate not being able to play on the freeway because once it starts swaying, it feels like its getting worse and I'd hate to lose control so I let off the throttle and slowly slow down.
Any ideas?
If im doing 70 or so on the freeway and I nail the throttle, I'll get up to about 90-100 and the *** end starts to sway. ONLY at high MPH does it do this. Doesnt do it any other time. And for some reason the car has HORRIBLE wheel hop from a dead stop.
Its a 98 Z28, Sportline springs.
I was thinking maybe panhard bar? Im lost and I hate not being able to play on the freeway because once it starts swaying, it feels like its getting worse and I'd hate to lose control so I let off the throttle and slowly slow down.
Any ideas?
#2
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So you're on Sportline springs with stock shocks, stock panhard bar, stock LCAs, etc.?
That sounds like it might be an issue. Your suspension geometry is off due to the 2" drop. It is recommended that you buy an adjustable panhard bar when you lower your car. Your stock shocks are no where near good enough to handle the Eibach springs, so you need better shocks if you want to keep those Sportlines. In addition, the wheel hop you're experiencing may be due to your stock LCAs. Again, that's due to being lowered.
Everyone here will tell you to ditch the Sportline springs. They're terrible springs, only good for a nice lowered appearance, and nothing else. Just buy some good lowering springs (BMR, Strano, Hotchkis, etc.) or cut a coil off your stockers if you don't have any money to spend on new springs.
That sounds like it might be an issue. Your suspension geometry is off due to the 2" drop. It is recommended that you buy an adjustable panhard bar when you lower your car. Your stock shocks are no where near good enough to handle the Eibach springs, so you need better shocks if you want to keep those Sportlines. In addition, the wheel hop you're experiencing may be due to your stock LCAs. Again, that's due to being lowered.
Everyone here will tell you to ditch the Sportline springs. They're terrible springs, only good for a nice lowered appearance, and nothing else. Just buy some good lowering springs (BMR, Strano, Hotchkis, etc.) or cut a coil off your stockers if you don't have any money to spend on new springs.
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I bought the car as it sits.
I'm having to fix it all, but the main concern was the swaying. It's gets scary quick.
I'll look into better lcas and such.
What's a good brand on suspension components that won't kill me?
Thanks for the reply!
I'm having to fix it all, but the main concern was the swaying. It's gets scary quick.
I'll look into better lcas and such.
What's a good brand on suspension components that won't kill me?
Thanks for the reply!
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Are Eibach Sportline springs the only suspension mods? You'll need LCA re-location brackets and an adjustable Panhard bar at a minimum. I'm not going to tell you what springs and shocks to get, that's a personal choice. Check the vendors for your parts needs, especially Strano.
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Are Eibach Sportline springs the only suspension mods? You'll need LCA re-location brackets and an adjustable Panhard bar at a minimum. I'm not going to tell you what springs and shocks to get, that's a personal choice. Check the vendors for your parts needs, especially Strano.
Whats the purpose for the LCA relocation brackets?
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Straight from the UMI Performance website:
"Lower control arm relocation brackets reposition your instant center by changing your lower control arm angle for improved traction. Relocation brackets lower the rear of the control arm up to 3", a must for all lowered vehicles to correct lost suspension geometry. By lowering your vehicle, you are changing the lower control arm angle allowing the rear mounting point to sit higher than the front. This will, in return, cause wheel hop and a great deal of traction loss. Lower control arm relocation brackets allow you to correct this angle and gain back much needed traction. On a stock height vehicle relocation brackets will also work excellent to eliminate tire spin and wheel hop by changing the vehicles instant center point. "
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...Path=7_138_108
You can also go to the F-Body Road Racing and Autocross Forums:
http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.p...ation+brackets
Sam Strano has just about anything you could need:
http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbymodel.php?ModelID=7
"Lower control arm relocation brackets reposition your instant center by changing your lower control arm angle for improved traction. Relocation brackets lower the rear of the control arm up to 3", a must for all lowered vehicles to correct lost suspension geometry. By lowering your vehicle, you are changing the lower control arm angle allowing the rear mounting point to sit higher than the front. This will, in return, cause wheel hop and a great deal of traction loss. Lower control arm relocation brackets allow you to correct this angle and gain back much needed traction. On a stock height vehicle relocation brackets will also work excellent to eliminate tire spin and wheel hop by changing the vehicles instant center point. "
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...Path=7_138_108
You can also go to the F-Body Road Racing and Autocross Forums:
http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.p...ation+brackets
Sam Strano has just about anything you could need:
http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbymodel.php?ModelID=7
Last edited by BS; 12-17-2010 at 12:41 PM.
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Worn stock shocks have been known to cause wobbling at higher speeds. After you realign the car.. get better shocks.
I'd ditch the sportlines too but that's just me
You don't "need" relo brackets.. to fix wheel hop you probably "want" them. Someone explain to me how relo brackets are going to fix the high speed wobbling because I never heard of that before...
I'd ditch the sportlines too but that's just me
You don't "need" relo brackets.. to fix wheel hop you probably "want" them. Someone explain to me how relo brackets are going to fix the high speed wobbling because I never heard of that before...
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okay sweet!
Thanks guys. Im the assistant manager at oriellys so I can get basicly whatever I want from anywhere for cheap.![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
We sell good rear shocks, I know for SURE I need front shocks, mine are really soft.
The wheel hop is SOOO damn violent. I cant punch it in first because it will just hop so damn bad. It broke my rear view mirror off it shakes so much.. Kinda causing me not to play on the streets + track.
I need to get it taken care of asap. Feels so unstable at higher MPH.
Thanks guys. Im the assistant manager at oriellys so I can get basicly whatever I want from anywhere for cheap.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
We sell good rear shocks, I know for SURE I need front shocks, mine are really soft.
The wheel hop is SOOO damn violent. I cant punch it in first because it will just hop so damn bad. It broke my rear view mirror off it shakes so much.. Kinda causing me not to play on the streets + track.
I need to get it taken care of asap. Feels so unstable at higher MPH.