Jimmy_d

iTrader: (3)

2000 Camaro SS. running a 265/40/18 and 4.11 gears with a 6 speed. It wheel hops quite a bit and doesnt like 5500rpm shifts through the first three gears...

Z28/2002

iTrader: (27)

What is done to the suspension?

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Issue: Racing on a 18" Rim, Unknown Tire Brand/type/compound, Racing on a 6 speed.

Solution: Change the tire to a Bias Ply, Buy a 12 bolt rear or better, invest in shocks.

Been covered many times, in the Drag Racing Section.

Here is a link of what i have been working on. This is about 2 years old but I have actually bought and installed everything I was planning on. Just need to get out in 2011 and Race.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/eastern-m...ay-new-pb.html

The main issue with racing M6 cars is that there is NO SLIP in the drive train like you have with A4 converter cars and due to that fact that the VERY little sidewall has basically turned you into a BOG/SPIN machine and some cases a Wheel Hop machine.

Drag Radials are still tough as you have changed to a better compound but the steel belted tires again are not soft enough to absorb the shock.

Lastly to mention, LINE LOCK is something you need too.

Jimmy_d

iTrader: (3)

suspension nothing i dont believe. ill have to get it on the rack and take a gander lol. its got all the bolt on goodies motor wise. I know it's gonna spin but if i could cut the spining and hoping out of 3rd and half of second gear i would be happy. first gear... hahah no hope

Lt1Porsche

iTrader: (6)

Need to get some suspension mods. i had a lot of wheel hope when i was stock. need to get new lca's, lca relocation brackets, torque arm and some sticky tires.

Jimmy_d

iTrader: (3)

Yeah. it has 265/40/18 bridgestone potenza's on it now. Gonna go for a 295/35/18 this next time. gonna get the lca relocators, maybe an adjustable panhard and some good shocks to start with

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

relocators, lca's/ panhard, a tunnel mount torque arm, and a set of adjustable shocks like Strange or Afco will do the job, proven time and time again. if you do it in stages then do the order listed. Pm or call us for more info or if you'd like to order some of these parts. we have the best deals and the highest quality parts you can find.

Mike's02Z28M6

I've had wheel hop issues for 112k miles...since she was brand new...the wheel hop got worse over time...flat out horrible wheel hop the past 40k miles. Put bilsteins and strano springs on her three weeks ago and she hasn't hopped yet...now I've only straight lined smashed the go pedal from a stop a few times since the new shocks but she flat out squats and runs.

I do NOT have LCA's, relo brackets, panhard, nothing...just new shocks, springs and a new set of Firestone Firehawk Wide Oval Indy 500 edition tires. I told Sam Strano about my wheel hop issues and he told me on the phone I should try new shocks first (since I needed them anyway) before adding the other stuff and then adding the other stuff only IF I needed it. So far, shocks were all I needed.

With that said, I do want to get a new torque arm and sway bars. Aftermarket ones compared to the stock ones next to each other are noticeably (sp?) a big difference especially when you consider what the stockers are supposed to do and how weak they appear to be to be able to do what they are supposed to do

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I was actually going to mention that shocks are a hugely overlooked reason/solution to wheelhop. The compression damping is what controls unsprung weight, and the axle is unsprung weight. All the trick control arms and Torque arms in the world can't help you if the shocks are just overwhelmed and the result it the axle bounces (hops).

As for the torque arm and sway bars, well--got you covered there too Mike (but I bet you knew that). You may or may not see a huge change in with the TA, especially since you don't currently have any hop but you might find the car plants a little harder. You will see a massive change in roll and repsonse with the bars... my bars anyway.

FiredUpZ28

words of wisdom indeed.

Jimmy_d

iTrader: (3)

awesome yeah. i was gonna ask what would be the first thing to do in stages... so i'll pobably grap up some lca relocators first and then check out the shock situation while im under there. thanks guys. relocators are the cheapest thing too! lol

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Brackets are cheaper... but they aren't guaranteed to kill hop, and frankly I know you have bad shocks. Stock shocks suck, and just get worse and worse with miles. And there is nothing you can really check while under there. A shock doesn't need to leak to be worn out.

Other points. Shocks will make the car ride better. They'll make it more stable and tied-down and controlled feeling. Brackets, arms they won't do that. So you are looking at something in shocks that while costing more, kills a few birds with one stone.

Jimmy_d

iTrader: (3)

I hear yeah. I just haven't had a chance to check the whole car out yet. Only had it a couple weeks now. I figured for now i would put the relocators on since they are cheap and fairly easy. I wanna check all the brakes and do a complete checkout of everything since its new and i don't know everything that may need to be replaced yet., has 80k miles.

Mike's02Z28M6

Okay since I posted the above I decided to REALLY lay some rubber a couple of times yesterday and found my wheel hop is 95% gone. It seems there is a tiny bit left though that could be attributed to the imperfections in the street I was laying rubber on. Still feels 100% better then it did