I need help with torque arm install...
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
I need help with torque arm install... I know i know...I did a search but i cant find what im looking for.
This is on my 99 TA with an M6....what did you guys remove to make it easier getting the old torque arm out? Cause once i get that out i can get the new in.
do i have to drop the cross member?
can i do all this with the exhaust in tacked.
More or less i need to know what you guys did to get the transmission bushing unbolted and out so i can get the BMR bushing in....
removing the torque arm from my 87 iroc was and is a pain to get it out and in...
and looking at the 4th gen underbody...it looks like it will be a pain too
rear is already jacked up and on jack stands with the rear hanging....the 2 rear bolt are nothing to get out...its the front
help me out.
This is on my 99 TA with an M6....what did you guys remove to make it easier getting the old torque arm out? Cause once i get that out i can get the new in.
do i have to drop the cross member?
can i do all this with the exhaust in tacked.
More or less i need to know what you guys did to get the transmission bushing unbolted and out so i can get the BMR bushing in....
removing the torque arm from my 87 iroc was and is a pain to get it out and in...
and looking at the 4th gen underbody...it looks like it will be a pain too
rear is already jacked up and on jack stands with the rear hanging....the 2 rear bolt are nothing to get out...its the front
help me out.
Launching!
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: SOUTH CAROLINA
Hi,i would place a small jack with a piece of 2x4 on top to support transmission. Remove crossmember support. Lower jack slightly to gain access to bolts (torque arm). Remove them..... A 3/8 drive with a universal and long extension will allow you to work with exhaust intact. A box end rachet helps on the top bolt.lower rear after removing two nut on rear bolts. This will give you the top clearance to remove these bolts/watch your head and hands to avoid injury. The torque arm can be awkward due to the length. I usuall use my feet and knees if no one is around. Make sure car is supported safely on approved jack stands/ramps. Rear must be supported by jack stands on rear body supports to allow lowering. You will need to remove shock bottom nut to allow the drop needed..........good luck and have a blessed week..captain jim
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
gotcha on the 2x4, i always do that. removing the crossmember will give me enough room to get the bolts out? I'll got to AZ and get me a box end ratchet...(any idea what size)??
do i have to take the whole bushing housing off? or just open it and take the old out and replace with the bmr?
everything else i know how to take care of....ive done it 1000 times on my iroc I just needed to know how to gain access on these 4th gens.
ignore my stock ex manifolds and Y....that will be replaced soon as the camaro sells....lol
do i have to take the whole bushing housing off? or just open it and take the old out and replace with the bmr?
everything else i know how to take care of....ive done it 1000 times on my iroc I just needed to know how to gain access on these 4th gens.
ignore my stock ex manifolds and Y....that will be replaced soon as the camaro sells....lol
For me, I put all 4 corners up so there's more clearance at the trans. And yes, drop the crossmember with the trans supported with your scissor jack. Open the clamshell by removing the top bolt and pull the arm out.
Getting that bolt back in can be a dog. The angle has to be just right to let the clamshell close all the way and line up. I ended up supporting the arm with bungee cords to give a bit of play. Once that top bolt is in loosely, use your main jack to lift the pumpkin to allow the bracket to slide in place, then you'll probably have to tweak the pumpkin height a couple of time to get bolt holes to line up.
BobP
Getting that bolt back in can be a dog. The angle has to be just right to let the clamshell close all the way and line up. I ended up supporting the arm with bungee cords to give a bit of play. Once that top bolt is in loosely, use your main jack to lift the pumpkin to allow the bracket to slide in place, then you'll probably have to tweak the pumpkin height a couple of time to get bolt holes to line up.
BobP
Launching!
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: SOUTH CAROLINA
Hi,sorry for the delay........i use a drill to remove the rivets on clamshell as mentioned above. Then tap with a punch to remove. Option 2 grinder on one side and then use punch to remove..careful with grinding due to bracket interlock.
Bushing must be installed correctly/use supplied lube/wrench size 15mm/22mm rear of brace.
HAVE A BLESSED EVENING.....JIM
Last edited by jim ravencraft; Mar 9, 2011 at 05:52 PM.
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
done!...had to take both crossmember's off and the trans mount and let the trans down as far as it would go just to get that one freaking bottom bolt off the clamshell ....trans mount blocked it from letting a socket on it.
pulled the clamshell and drilled out the rivets..cleaned and degreased everything and put it all back together and torqued it down.
thanks for the help guys!!!
pulled the clamshell and drilled out the rivets..cleaned and degreased everything and put it all back together and torqued it down.
thanks for the help guys!!!
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
i got a problem.......
has anyone had trouble turning the adjuster bolt? I cant budge it!
Ive PB blasted it and everything.
Could it be in a bind somehow? Ive got positive 2 on the driveshaft and negative 2 on the torque arm so im at "zero" they are both sitting pretty straight.....could that be why the adjuster wont move?
any idea? and something i can try?
thanks!
has anyone had trouble turning the adjuster bolt? I cant budge it!
Ive PB blasted it and everything.
Could it be in a bind somehow? Ive got positive 2 on the driveshaft and negative 2 on the torque arm so im at "zero" they are both sitting pretty straight.....could that be why the adjuster wont move?
any idea? and something i can try?
thanks!
Last edited by stroked383HSR; Mar 13, 2011 at 02:22 PM.
Trending Topics
Just saw this. Did you get the adjuster to turn? This may be stating the obvious but do you have the jam nuts loosened on the adjuster? Also make sure the rear rod eye cross-bolts are loose when turning the adjuster.
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
its all ok...i had to do everything all over again..and take the torque arm back out and break the adjuster loose on the ground....it was corroded in the threads....i cleaned everything and put it all back together and adjusted it just fine. yes with the suspension loaded....lol
thanks guys for checkin in.
thanks guys for checkin in.
