torchedcycle

iTrader: (1)

Driver side upper shock bolt (torx) will not budge. I have destroyed my torx socket trying to get these broke loose, anybody had this problem and any ideas how to get them out?

guy7bmwm83

iTrader: (5)

Did you try attaching the torx bit to a breaker bar to apply more torque?

Elthesh

iTrader: (1)

Not just any breaker bar, but a really long one. If a 2 foot breaker bar won't get it loose before you destroy a Torx bit, you might want to try a better quality bit. Unless you are using a good quality bit, then I can only say hose it down with PB blaster. Good quality would be Snap on, Craftsman, etc. If you're using those Lisle bits from your local auto parts store, it's no wonder it's broken. I have a few bent Lisle bits lying around somewhere. I use Husky tools, and those have never broken on me.

The way I'd go at it is this way, grab the above mentioned breaker bar, a good quality bit, wear some thick work gloves so you don't injure your hands. Put one hand on the end of the bar and the other holding the bit steady on the other end so it doesn't just pop off the bolt, then have at it. Try and make sure you don't put yourself in a bad position so you don't go flying when the bolt, bit or whatever comes off/breaks/whatever.

99SSJarhead

iTrader: (2)

Heat it then soak in PB blaster (just not vice versa) for a while. The heat will cause it to expand which will let the PB blaster soak in better.

99zee

iTrader: (4)

This is typical. Water sits underneath and becomes a rusted mess. Give it a good soaking, heat it up and knock with a hammer. I am getting ready to start mine soon and I'm dreading the fronts. I have read about the problems most are having. I have a grinder, cutoff wheel, breaker bars, etc. Good Luck

jam01

i hope you have a spring compressor on that spring. do you have an air compressor and some air tools? if not i would check around to see how much it will cost to have them removed. here are the part #s to the upper shock mounts you will probably need them 22146933 n 22146934, now these were for my 02 camaro and im not sure how many other choices there are if any between the years and different suspension options. you can also check on advance auto's website they had them listed i went with gm because there were to many different choices for me and they dont tell you the difference. plus i still get my discount at the dealer i used to work for. good luck and take your time lining the shock up so it sits in the lower control arm correctly.

torchedcycle

iTrader: (1)

I used a breaker bar and it was a snap-on torx(or it use to be a torx looks more like a twizzler now), I was going to heat it but was worried about the paint on the inner fender. I guess i will try that next, Thanks for the help

jam01

is this the front or the rear?

torchedcycle

iTrader: (1)

On the front

cnd99hawk

iTrader: (2)

Umm I was having a difficult time with the torx bolts a couple weekends ago. Most How-to's for shock swaps say you don't have to fully remove the master cylinder, just loosen it... Well I decided to remove it and it was very easy to access the torx from there. It should give you enough room to lay in some leverage.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Did you disconnect the brake lines when you removed the cylinder? If not, I would worry about bending the rigid lines...

Certainly removing it would make the job WAY easier -- loosening it at the least is a must.

shorty(98TA)

I removed my master cyl when I did my front shocks and just bent the hard lines a little so I could get it out of the way. No problems to report with doing this

cnd99hawk

iTrader: (2)

Yup, I removed the metal lines from the MC. I was doing a Pad/Rotor change while I was in there doing the shock/spring so I just bled the system when I mounted it back on.

As stated above, if you want to bleed the system, just take the MC off. Soo much easier IMO.

guy7bmwm83

iTrader: (5)

Do you have an update on this? I will try to change my shocks tomorrow.

pillagenburn

iTrader: (2)

take a somewhat larger torx bit and a small sledgehammer... put the somewhat larger torx bit over the stripped hole and whack the f*ck out of it until the torx bit becomes embedded in the torx bolt. Soak the living sh*t out of the bolt with PB blaster and then (SLOWLY) begin trying to work the torx bolt out... then set the torx bolt on fire and **** on it because car makers do stupid sh*t like use torx bolts.

failing that, drill the bastard out.... you'll need to buy new shock mounts anyway.

oh and move the brake master cylinder up above the rubber weatherstripping on the cowl; the hard lines won't bend.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Ya need to spray some penetrant first, like PB Blast on the torx bolt seam with the sheet metal -- if it does its job, your job will be easier... I did that first, and it seemed to help, but was still tight...

guy7bmwm83

iTrader: (5)

I removed my shock/spring assembly today. The torx bolts were not super tight at all. I loosened the master cylinder to access the torx bolt. The nuts and regular bolts were way tighter. However, I wasn't able to remove the nuts that hold the shock mount to the shock. They are rusted and I am on my way to a shop to get them removed. Overall, the removal is pretty easy, except for those damn frozen nuts. I don't understand why water collects there.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

I used my dremel on the nuts and just chopped them off. Wasn't going to reuse them anyway.

NOTE: make certain you have the springs COMPLETELY compressed before chopping at those nuts!

peterlawl84

iTrader: (12)

I ended up having to drill mine out until it finally broke thru...make sure to use alot of anti-seize when you slide the shock onto the new upper mount

guy7bmwm83

iTrader: (5)

The machine shop I took the shock/springs to ended up using a torch to remove the nuts. They placed the assembly on a table vise and off they went. The upper shock mount flew forward about 25 feet and the shocks flew back about 15 feet. It was cool to see. My one day job turned into a two day job. I wasn't able to finish due to waiting for parts. The mount insulators from the old mounts got fried so I am waiting for new ones. I am also installing new shock mounts since the old ones were cracked and they too got fried. I also noticed my swaybar endlinks are messed up.