Brake Motive ebay kits?
#1
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: RGV, TX
Posts: 693
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just wanted to know if any of you guys were running the brake motive break kits found on ebay?
some truck forum guys say good things about them, just wanted to know if any of you f-body guys had them and to know how they were performing for you all?
$200 for all 4 rotors (cross drilled/slotted) with ceramic pads is a hell of a deal
some truck forum guys say good things about them, just wanted to know if any of you f-body guys had them and to know how they were performing for you all?
$200 for all 4 rotors (cross drilled/slotted) with ceramic pads is a hell of a deal
#3
Teching In
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Lynchburg va.
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have them and like them so far. You may be just as well off going to their website to order. NOTE: They are not for racing! I hear they will crack under extreme use and some people say drilled and slotted are useless.. But hey, they look cool as hell!!
![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
Trending Topics
#11
11 Second Club
iTrader: (18)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've been running their stuff on my Chevelle. No issues with cracks or warpage in my heavy pig of a car.
To resurface I scuff with sandpaper or scotchbrite. Just enough to take the gloss off so the pads can bed. I think they sell die grinder attachments specifically for doing this though.
To resurface I scuff with sandpaper or scotchbrite. Just enough to take the gloss off so the pads can bed. I think they sell die grinder attachments specifically for doing this though.
#13
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (11)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
No, you don't get them machined. Heck, you don't have to get blanks turned every time either, it isn't necessary. As thunderstruck said, just scuff/clean up the surface when you change pads.
I've never had a problem bedding new pads on used rotors, and I've never gotten mine turned.
I've never had a problem bedding new pads on used rotors, and I've never gotten mine turned.
#14
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have them, order them from them by phone as they have a special in the sponsor area.
I got all 4 with the pads slotted only. Fronts were warped when i got them and they sent me two more, had them like 2 days after i called. Top notch CS and i like mine. Bed them in properly and you'll enjoy them. As far as abuse I'm sure they are referring to road racing. I don't think as far as street use or drag racing you would see any problems. Auto-x and road racing i am not sure though.
I got all 4 with the pads slotted only. Fronts were warped when i got them and they sent me two more, had them like 2 days after i called. Top notch CS and i like mine. Bed them in properly and you'll enjoy them. As far as abuse I'm sure they are referring to road racing. I don't think as far as street use or drag racing you would see any problems. Auto-x and road racing i am not sure though.
#15
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 818
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Autocross isn't even extreme, I don't think. Not compared to a track day anyway.
I run their rotors for my front C6 brake app in my F-Body for the street. I run a blank rotor and track pad for track days. I'm quite impressed with the machining and surface finish of the rotors!
I run their rotors for my front C6 brake app in my F-Body for the street. I run a blank rotor and track pad for track days. I'm quite impressed with the machining and surface finish of the rotors!
#16
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Autocross isn't even extreme, I don't think. Not compared to a track day anyway.
I run their rotors for my front C6 brake app in my F-Body for the street. I run a blank rotor and track pad for track days. I'm quite impressed with the machining and surface finish of the rotors!
I run their rotors for my front C6 brake app in my F-Body for the street. I run a blank rotor and track pad for track days. I'm quite impressed with the machining and surface finish of the rotors!
But the ones i've been to and seen.... no not extreme at all
#17
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: RGV, TX
Posts: 693
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have them, order them from them by phone as they have a special in the sponsor area.
I got all 4 with the pads slotted only. Fronts were warped when i got them and they sent me two more, had them like 2 days after i called. Top notch CS and i like mine. Bed them in properly and you'll enjoy them. As far as abuse I'm sure they are referring to road racing. I don't think as far as street use or drag racing you would see any problems. Auto-x and road racing i am not sure though.
I got all 4 with the pads slotted only. Fronts were warped when i got them and they sent me two more, had them like 2 days after i called. Top notch CS and i like mine. Bed them in properly and you'll enjoy them. As far as abuse I'm sure they are referring to road racing. I don't think as far as street use or drag racing you would see any problems. Auto-x and road racing i am not sure though.
#18
11 Second Club
iTrader: (18)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Copied from Tire Rack for ceramic pads (this is basically what I do for all types)
Step 1: Make 10 stops from 30 mph (50 kph) down to about 10 mph (15 kph) using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Do not drag your pads during these stops. After the 10th stop, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down.
Step 2: Make 5 consecutive stops from 50 mph (80 kph) down to 10 mph (15 kph). After the 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. This completes the break-in of your pads to the rotor surface.
During Steps 1 & 2, a de-gassing process occurs which may produce an odor coming from your pads as they complete the break-in cycle. This odor is normal and is part of the process your pads must go through to achieve their ultimate level of performance. The odor will go away after allowing your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes.
As with any new set of pads, do not tow a trailer or do any hauling during the break-in period.
Full seating of your new brake pads normally occurs within 1,000 miles.
Step 1: Make 10 stops from 30 mph (50 kph) down to about 10 mph (15 kph) using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Do not drag your pads during these stops. After the 10th stop, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down.
Step 2: Make 5 consecutive stops from 50 mph (80 kph) down to 10 mph (15 kph). After the 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. This completes the break-in of your pads to the rotor surface.
During Steps 1 & 2, a de-gassing process occurs which may produce an odor coming from your pads as they complete the break-in cycle. This odor is normal and is part of the process your pads must go through to achieve their ultimate level of performance. The odor will go away after allowing your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes.
As with any new set of pads, do not tow a trailer or do any hauling during the break-in period.
Full seating of your new brake pads normally occurs within 1,000 miles.
#20
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I guess I should have said burnish, that is the correct term
Basically get to about 50-60 miles an hour, apply your brakes hard but not 100%, more like 70-80% until down to around 5mph. Accelerate and do this about 6 times. Then drive for 20 minutes without slowing and let them cool. Then do another set of 6 deceleration runs.
Google it and you'll see what I am talking about.
Check this out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hRbrU...eature=related
Basically get to about 50-60 miles an hour, apply your brakes hard but not 100%, more like 70-80% until down to around 5mph. Accelerate and do this about 6 times. Then drive for 20 minutes without slowing and let them cool. Then do another set of 6 deceleration runs.
Google it and you'll see what I am talking about.
Check this out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hRbrU...eature=related
Last edited by My6speedZ; 08-25-2011 at 12:15 AM. Reason: added video