beanhead

iTrader: (1)

The car is street/strip and will see the track a couple times a year but is mostly a weekend cruiser. Should I upgrade end links and bushings or completely replace with a larger dia. and if so what size combo is best for my application

mods in sig but will also be adding UMI tunnel mounted TA and prothane motor/tranny bushings any and all feedback is greatly appreciated

UMI Tech

Hey beaner. By track do you mean strip or road race? Depending on your application you may benefit from a change in sway bar diameter. Based on your sig it appears strip is what you intend to optimize. If you choose wisely you can optimize for street and the occasional twisty section then unhook your front bar for the strip.

Shoot me a reply or give us a call and we can tune for your exact application.

beanhead

iTrader: (1)

your assumption is correct by track I do mean strip but I am also looking for the best of both worlds. I have to be able to take the wife and baby on there weekend rides and still keep my goal of a streetable strip car in mind. I was looking at this http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=292 please let me know if this will meet my goals or if there is a better option

UMI Tech

Hey beanhead. Happy Sunday.

That kit is a nice upgrade and is certainly streetable. It will keep your car nice and flat when street driving but won't affect the spring rate so your ride will stay the same while family driving. A bit more rear bar, like this has, could help your launch. I see you have LCA's already. If you don't have relocation a bracket kit that may be a benefit during launch. If your Eibachs retained factory ride height you may be launching just fine with stock LCA location. The best thing is to track test forward bite before you buy relocation brackets. We like to sell parts but more importantly we like to provide great customer service and advice to get your car working well.

ramey

beanhead

iTrader: (1)

The car already has relocation brackets on it because it is lower than stock ride height. Some of the modifications were by the previous owner so I am doing my best to complete some of the things he did half ***.

Thanks for the info but i have a couple additional questions
Do you offer military discount?
should i order direct or thru a vender?
If vender, Who do you recommend?

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hey Mr. Bean. We do offer a 5% military discount when you order direct from UMI through your military email address. The best way is to call 814.343.6315

Dealer pricing is pretty stable so you may just want to shop around for the best shipping rates.

Thanks for your support of UMI and more importantly for protecting our country.

ramey

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Just checked out your car. Very sharp looking ride. Love the wheels!

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I'd say go with a Strano set with the adjustable rear swaybar. Lower setting will be a good performance street balance. The stiffer setting for the strip, and you can disconnect one end of the front swaybar to essentially simulate total removal

Upgrading endlinks/bushings is never a bad idea in all applications.

YellowToy/A

iTrader: (1)

"Best of both worlds" I always like that. A bigger bar in the front will hurt launch. A bigger bar in the back if set up right will help launch. A bigger bar in the back will make over steer a problem if you drive hard on the street. There is no both ways. You can take off the front bar off for the strip if you go with a 35mm bar, that will help. A Strano hollow front bar weighs alot less. Sooo what do you want a drag car or good handling? Pick one and go that way.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Since you're mainly a street car, I wouldn't look into the dedicated drag bars, since they are extremely aggressive and provide an intense amount of adjustably. A good handling set of bars like the SBP001 will save you some coin and make your car more fun on the street. The 35mm front bar is hollow and lighter than stock. When you're heading to the track, just disconnect the endlinks and you'll eliminate the interference of the stiffer bar with launching, and the lighter weight will take some fat off the nose. Out back, the stiffer, 25mm hollow bar will help the car rotate back more evenly than the factory bar. It's not going to be as big of an improvement as you would see with a drag bar, but the comfort and performance you see on the street is large and it would help at the strip to some degree.

beanhead

iTrader: (1)

"Best of both worlds" is a term that is relative to your goals. I would enjoy the added drive-ability of a front and rear kit and also like the benefit of the rear bar at the track with front disconnected. So to me that is the "best of both worlds" I do understand however that in fact there are better setups for the strip and for road racing but I do not intend to set records at either. But as I stated in my original post the feedback is greatly appreciated

any feedback on solid vs. hollow? is it just a weight thing or does it become a strength issue?

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hey Cory. A sway bar is a torsional spring. Sway bars can be designed with the same rate whether they are solid or hollow. For our purposes they work the same. The trade-off is weight vs diameter. To get a hollow bar nice and light with a huge rate requires diameter which may not fit the car as intended, can't be bent on the CNC bender due to too large a radius, etc.

There really is no strength issue per se. Whether solid or hollow, the torsional spring (sway bar for our purposes) flexes for a living and theoretically can flex a zillion times without losing any strength.

Sprint Cup cars have huge sway bars which actually look like a piece of exhaust pipe (they're that big) with a straight arm on each end. Those chassis guys have the packaging down pat.

Your friendly sales techs at your favorite suspension company (cough, UMI, cough cough) can help you determine the best rate and style for you.

beanhead

iTrader: (1)

I'm currently in Afghanistan but prior to my redeployment I will give my favorite suspension company (cough, UMI, cough cough) a call so I can have everything I need waiting for install when the wife lets me get to it. Thank you for all the info

YellowToy/A

iTrader: (1)

Ramey
I got to call on two things. Most of the torsional spring effect is based on outside diameter. Hollow or solid does not matter. You should be able to give us the numbers.

Next: The bars on Cup cars are to pull the front down in the turn. They ride on the bump stops. The high rates on the bars are not used like on our cars. Unless you ride on your bump stops in a turn. I do not.

FAST FREDDY

Since you're mainly a street car, I wouldn't look into the dedicated drag bars, since they are extremely aggressive and provide an intense amount of adjustably. A good handling set of bars like the SBP001 will save you some coin and make your car more fun on the street. The 35mm front bar is hollow and lighter than stock. When you're heading to the track, just disconnect the endlinks and you'll eliminate the interference of the stiffer bar with launching, and the lighter weight will take some fat off the nose. Out back, the stiffer, 25mm hollow bar will help the car rotate back more evenly than the factory bar. It's not going to be as big of an improvement as you would see with a drag bar, but the comfort and performance you see on the street is large and it would help at the strip to some degree.
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UMI Sales - what is the difference in weight between your hollow front bar and the stock solid front bar?

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

I agree 100% with this post, if you are going to mainly be a street car stick to a set of sway bars that are more street oriented like our BMR sway bar kit (SBP001). This will not only help the handling of the car but will also considerably help with straight line performance due to the stiffer rear sway bar.