First brake pad install, any advice??
#1
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First brake pad install, any advice??
I'm gonna attempt my first brake pad install this weekend with some new Hawk pads.
Any advice on what not to do or easy mistakes to avoid?? I looked at install university and it looks pretty easy. Also the pads came with grease I haven't looked to hard into what it's for but I'm sure you guys know.
Any and all advice would be great.
I'm also just gonna sand/scuff up my rotors since they are slotted and not supposed to get em turned right?
Thanks
Any advice on what not to do or easy mistakes to avoid?? I looked at install university and it looks pretty easy. Also the pads came with grease I haven't looked to hard into what it's for but I'm sure you guys know.
Any and all advice would be great.
I'm also just gonna sand/scuff up my rotors since they are slotted and not supposed to get em turned right?
Thanks
#3
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I wouldnt sand the rotors.
1.Take off brake fluid cap
2. squeeze back the calipers until the new pads fit on the rotor
3.re install cap
4. bed the brakes
http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/hps.php
1.Take off brake fluid cap
2. squeeze back the calipers until the new pads fit on the rotor
3.re install cap
4. bed the brakes
http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/hps.php
#4
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Yeah bedding them in will be easy.
And why not sand the old rotors don't they need to be clean and smooth?
What I want to avoid is just common mistakes. Anyone know what the grease is for that came with the pads?
And why not sand the old rotors don't they need to be clean and smooth?
What I want to avoid is just common mistakes. Anyone know what the grease is for that came with the pads?
#6
How old are the rotors? what kind are they? hawk brake pads are very nice! Its easy to do just kinda go along you will figure it out. Dont sand the rotor. I do them on a lathe and cut them down where they are flat. Also the grease is not needed at all. To brake them in drive like 30 hit the brakes kinda hard till you stop. Do this like 4-5 times and you will be set to go. If i where you i would also upgrade your rotors to the hawk also. They help your car stop alot better, expecially when its raining.
#7
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Thanks, the rotors are slotted also sorry should have said that, this is why I'm going to sand and clean em really good. You know how much the hawk rotors are off the top of your head?
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#9
well no but i got all of my hawk stuff for free i know one of the guys under the ceo. he sent me a set for mine, gmc truck, trail blazer, and accidently sent me a regal rotors lol. They where brakes and rotors he sent me. i only have two regal rotors i sold on craigslist in one day for 120 dollars for the back two.
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Don't let the caliper hang by the brake line. If you haven't had the brakes off the car in a while you might want to pre-soak bolts with WD 40 to make it easier on yourself.
#15
From Hawk's website:
Install brake pads properly. Be sure pads are securely positioned in the caliper.
Flush system with fresh brake fluid.
Check all hydraulic parts for excess wear and tear.
Check disc for proper thickness, parallelism, and lateral runout.
Check disc for scoring or grooves over .012”depth. If either applies, resurfacing is required.
If discs do not need resurfacing, then contamination from the previous brake pads must be removed. Sand discs with 130 grit sandpaper using moderate pressure. Use soap and water to clean discs’ surface after sanding and machining. Discs should be free and clear of oil, grease, and brake fluid.
Inspect calipers for freedom of movement. Lubricate where necessary.
After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
When building brakes for our USAR ProCup cars (i.e. Hooters Cup) we used this tool to get the proper surface finish. It's a bit overkill but is awesome for when you're doing things right.
http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c1=6
ramey
Install brake pads properly. Be sure pads are securely positioned in the caliper.
Flush system with fresh brake fluid.
Check all hydraulic parts for excess wear and tear.
Check disc for proper thickness, parallelism, and lateral runout.
Check disc for scoring or grooves over .012”depth. If either applies, resurfacing is required.
If discs do not need resurfacing, then contamination from the previous brake pads must be removed. Sand discs with 130 grit sandpaper using moderate pressure. Use soap and water to clean discs’ surface after sanding and machining. Discs should be free and clear of oil, grease, and brake fluid.
Inspect calipers for freedom of movement. Lubricate where necessary.
After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
When building brakes for our USAR ProCup cars (i.e. Hooters Cup) we used this tool to get the proper surface finish. It's a bit overkill but is awesome for when you're doing things right.
http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c1=6
ramey
#16
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Thanks. I saw that. I was looking at the service records i got with the car and I think the rotors got out on initially in 2008....but only 20,000 since then. So I'm leaning Towards just getting new rotors altogether. Prob will go with brakemotive, seems like they are decent.
Oh and BTW hawk rotors are like $270 for just the fronts!! Ws.sik you got hooked up man!
Oh and BTW hawk rotors are like $270 for just the fronts!! Ws.sik you got hooked up man!
#17
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I guess a better question would be what should I do to ensure that they don't squeak?
After searching I see guys that grease the back of the pads and the caliper pins? Squeaking would suck
After searching I see guys that grease the back of the pads and the caliper pins? Squeaking would suck
#18
First, choose Hawk Performance high performance disc brake pads as your upgrade over other aftermarket brake suppliers. The next best steps you can take to avoid having noisy brakes are:
Turn / machine the rotors (machining off a small layer of the brake rotor to make it smooth again)
Wash and dry the rotor to rid of debris
Install the pads securely and according to instruction
Properly bed-in the pads according to instruction
Apply a thin layer of a silicone compound called anti-squeal brake lube on the back of the brake pads
__________
So, I just talked to an engineer at Hawk. He said the anti-squeal which comes with the pads should be applied sparingly (!) to the pad/piston mating area and the edge of the pads where they contact the pins and caliper. He mentioned a few times the word "sparingly" and also not to put it on any rubber boots/o rings, etc. They include that lube for just the reason you're talking about, to reduce vibration and resultant squeal. I'd put it on and enjoy quiet brakes.
ramey
Turn / machine the rotors (machining off a small layer of the brake rotor to make it smooth again)
Wash and dry the rotor to rid of debris
Install the pads securely and according to instruction
Properly bed-in the pads according to instruction
Apply a thin layer of a silicone compound called anti-squeal brake lube on the back of the brake pads
__________
So, I just talked to an engineer at Hawk. He said the anti-squeal which comes with the pads should be applied sparingly (!) to the pad/piston mating area and the edge of the pads where they contact the pins and caliper. He mentioned a few times the word "sparingly" and also not to put it on any rubber boots/o rings, etc. They include that lube for just the reason you're talking about, to reduce vibration and resultant squeal. I'd put it on and enjoy quiet brakes.
ramey
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Thanks Ramey, I appreciate your responses and when I add more suspension mods UMI will get my business. Yeah I already bought Hawk pads. My rotors are slotted though so I was either going to sand them down or just get new ones from brakemotive since they shouldnt be turned.
I was looking at the old service records I have that came with the car and the rotors are from 8/2008 and from 25,000 miles ago. So I'm not sure if it would be a good idea to sand them down or not. They are nice rotors though the guy paid 370 for the set.
I did a lot of searching and it seems like people are happy with brakemotive. When I run my finger across the rotors that are on the car 3 of them are still pretty smooth but one of them is just a little wavvy and I'm not sure if I can get them 100% smooth with sanding.
What do you guys think?
I was looking at the old service records I have that came with the car and the rotors are from 8/2008 and from 25,000 miles ago. So I'm not sure if it would be a good idea to sand them down or not. They are nice rotors though the guy paid 370 for the set.
I did a lot of searching and it seems like people are happy with brakemotive. When I run my finger across the rotors that are on the car 3 of them are still pretty smooth but one of them is just a little wavvy and I'm not sure if I can get them 100% smooth with sanding.
What do you guys think?
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Make sure the grease you got is actually grease and not that disc brake quiet stuff... I don't think I will even apply the disc brake quiet anymore. I'd get a small container of the CRC high temp synthetic caliper grease anyway and use that.