dkcoleman01

Okay I know I need to go with better shocks (KYB,Bilstiens or Koni)....but explain why you say that the boxed SFC does nothing?

As far as the torque arm it's their BMR Fabrication Xtreme Torque Arm TA001R

As far as LCA they're poly how do they hurt?

What is the deal with poly parts? It seems that poly end parts hurts the ride so why do the companies offer them?

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...uspension.html

JD_AMG

Ive been to GIR a few times when it was open if thats what you are talking about, but if you are referring to street racing, then no, I don't get involved in that.

Controversial subject but I feel that SFC's, while they probably do stiffen the chassis some,dont make a noticeable improvement. I have 3 point bolt ons that are welded and noticed no difference. The "flex" that people think they are feeling is more often then not shitty shock dampening. Car feeling loose, disconnected, floaty, jarring, rattles, front feeling different from rear can all be attributed to shitty shocks.
I thought my car flexed when I first got it (and didn't know any better), then put konis on to improve ride/handling/stability, and all the things that the car did that I thought were "flex" (like mentioned above) went away and I was left with a super tight, tied together car with no rattles, all just from shocks....
Another good example is same scenario (me on konis with otherwise stock suspension) and my buddy on stock suspension with welded 3 point SLP SFCs. His car still felt like it "flexed", rode bad, loose and jarring. My car with no SFCs, but with konis rode WAY better and was way tighter and much much more solid.

Yep you got the short one, ditch it and get a full length one.
They bind when they need to articulate causing the wheel rate to go sky high. This could cause snap over steer and be very unsettling on uneven pavement and quick maneuvers.

Because people will blindly buy them and think stiffer is better. Some of the poly suspension bushings are ok for drag racing only (like poly LCAs) but everything else not so much.

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

And this. I call it the Horsepower TV effect, along with other shows of its ilk. The mimbo hosts come on and demonstrate how "squishy", and "spongy" the stock rubber bushings (emphasize the disgusted tone of the host) are, and how wonderful "low deflection polyurethane" is.

What they don't mention, out of deceit or ignorance (take your pick), is that very same property, they fain such hate for, is what allows the suspension to work.

dkcoleman01

So which part is the full length torque arm? I would like to check that out..

I understand what your stating about the parts that I have and your point your making but before I purchased any of the above parts I asked several questions while stressing my car was lowered and indeed a dd/street car to companies/friends/ and others on her. I was told several times that the parts I have were best for my dd. Now, like I said I understand what you have said but I have purchased those parts and have had those installed NOW I learn or read that poly bushings are not what's needed on my dd.

I thank you for your replies and you opinion.

Now I wonder who all out there are changing their poly end parts because of information like above. I'm I the only one that is spending money on **** I don't need. All I need and want is a better/handling ride so my performance want break anything or fail while playing around on the street

dkcoleman01

Now that is true. I hear all the talk and watch a lot of tv were guys saying that f-bodies has wheel hop and the rubber bushings shouldn't have been on the car. Now poly bushing don't need to be on the car unless your drag racing hell I wonder what's going to be next the rod end are going to have to be replace after so many years

JD_AMG

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=130

And now you see (one reason) why many don't like that certain vendor, they do anything just to sell you random parts you don't need, and often hurt your goals. You could have searched because this topic has been covered so many times, or simply just have called different vendors to get different opinions (specifically Sam Strano, he would have set you up right).

None of the stock suspension will break on the street. The only thing Ive ever heard of breaking was the stock torque arm when matched with a 12 bolt because it doesn't fit right.

JD_AMG

Solid rubber bushings (1LE) or UMI rotojoint.

dkcoleman01

When I used the search box on here it had suspension upgrades for drag racers. So I started asking people who had experience with the f body suspension questions around town as well as a couple of venders and the parts that I purchased was indeed what they recommend. I hate to spend money twice for the same thing.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Subframe connectors are a great help for F-bodies right out of the box. There is nothing connecting the front subframe to the rear subframe other than what is essentially sheet metal (unibody). By installing these connections, you're increasing torsional strength and reducing chassis flex and twisting that occurs all the time when you're driving down the road and going over a bump. They are a must-have for any unibody car, IMO, and will be a benefit to cars looking for handling or drag racing. It also allows your suspension to function more accurately.

Well you've listed the TA001, which is a full length torque arm, but described it as the Extreme Torque arm. Is it welded to the subframe connectors? The XTA001 is really only a drag torque arm, as indicated by its description. If you've already installed it, you're going to have a tough time removing it since it will have to be cut out. We do sell the crossbrace separately if you look to get rid of it the next person can get one.

There is a lot of claims that poly bushings will bind under handling conditions. I personally never experienced it with any of the three F-bodies I owned - even one with LCA relocations - but I know of people who have. It's not like your car is going to fly into a bush or anything, so don't get too excited over what you read, otherwise everyone would be. If you have the MTCA002 lower control arms, we can swap out your poly for rubber bushings if it worries you. The other option is that we can swap them out for the hybrid poly/rod-end. The rod-end on the rearend allows for proper articulation, while the poly on the body side will help to isolate NVH. I ran poly-poly on three heavily modified LS1 F-bodies, at one point they were all daily drivers, and they were either drag raced, autoXs, or both.

We offer them because they're a great, durable alternative to rubber. The idea is to create a strong part that can still isolate some of the NVH you hear when you drive, but also greatly reduce any flex or compression you find in rubber bushings. As a direct swap, a few of the major benefits can be a reduction in wheel hop, increased straight line performance, and a stronger part than the factory arm - which flexes under load.

- Kevin

JUSTINSWS6

Trust me poly is way better than rubber. Sfc are well worth it. For lca's i got poly roto joint combo and are on car adj. I love them. My stock ones got bent from a hard lanch.

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

That has more to do with the roto-joint than the poly. Poly/Poly will bind up.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Even though you never intended the convo to go this way, here's my opinion about your current parts you have for a daily/handling car

LCA's depends on what kind you got. Most aftermarket transmit more noise than stock, but nothing I worry about personally. Some LCA's that have poly on both sides can add swaybar-like resistance preventing the axle from rotating naturally. That shouldn't be the LCA's job though.. it should be the swaybar and springs job.

Adjustable PHB good

BMR rear sway.. if it's the 25mm then that's a bit big. Bigger rear swaybar can cause the front to push more and/or causes rear to snap oversteer more likely. It's all about the balance. Maybe some cases a 25mm rear bar is good for handling, but I personally wouldn't want it. 22mm biggest I'd go. Hell I use a stock rear bar right now

If you have a short torque arm, then it's generally better for straight line traction when you add gas. I believe it might even be good for exiting corners, but the problem is slowing down. It does something funny with the instant center that causes brake hop in the rear axle more likely. Brake hop is bad! If your drag racing, the short torque arm seems to be a preferred setup.

I don't know if my SFC's helped, but they don't hurt me much. Aside for the extra weight and that they bumped me into SM up until they changed the SCCA rules a few years ago, they make great jackpoints!

Relo brackets adjust the suspension geometry. If they are added to the lower hole, they help you gain straight line traction. During a turn though, they can cause the axle to toe outward inducing roll oversteer. Lowering the car with no relo brackets has an opposite effect. The axle slightly toe's into the turn. I think the latter makes the car a lot easier to control, but I may experiment with LCA relo brackets this year.

To sum it up.. every part has it's pros and cons. I suggest figuring out how you want your car to act and figuring out what parts do what, and add parts as you feel necessary. I think your car will handle the way it to a lot better and you'll save yourself money

dkcoleman01

Is it welded to the subframe connectors?
The torque arm I ordered is not the weld on it's the bolt on p# TA001.

If you have the MTCA002 lower control arms, we can swap out your poly for rubber bushings if it worries you.
It doesn't worry me anymore I'll keep what I have until I have. Thanks though...

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

OK, then you have the full length torque arm. The Extreme Torque arm is actually a weld-in and is considerably shorter than the full length design.

OK, cool. I wouldn't be worried about it. Just be sure to get a few clicks of synthetic grease in there ever other oil chance to make sure everything is correctly lubricated. This will minimize the potential for any binding that could occur.