Subframe connectors
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On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Durant ok
Subframe connectors My car pulls the left tire pretty hard. About to order some subframe connectors which one will be the best for me? Street/track car. Is not my DD. When i add the subframe connectors will it pull both tires? Do i need a Anti roll bar?
Subframe connectors will help a little but what you really need is a good anti-roll bar. Using a good anti-roll bar like the BMR one we make will keep the chassis from twisting and allow you to launch straight and even which will make the car more consistent. Here is a picture of the BMR anti-roll bar which is bolt-in item with no welding required.
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Glenn ***
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Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
When you're making this much power I'm sure SFC's will help a little bit but as mentioned above, an anti-roll bar (commonly called "drag bar") will help level things out.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=325
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=197
ramey
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On The Tree
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From: Durant ok
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=2619098352512 here is the video so help me out on what i need. Not sure which pass it is but u get the point
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On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Durant ok
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=2619098352512 here is the video so help me out on what i need. Not sure which pass it is but u get the point
Anti-roll bar 1st and subframe connectors as insurance.
What's on it for rear suspension otherwise?
ramey
ps I especially enjoy watching the nitrous purge...
Last edited by UMI Sales; Feb 6, 2012 at 12:51 PM. Reason: added sentence
Does it spin the tires or does it have enough tire? Looks like it has enough tire.
Sometimes the simple solutions work best.
I'm sure a big rear bar would easily tune the twist out of it. And like I said, SFC's would certainly help.
You could actually get it leaving pretty flat with just the bar but the extra insurance provided by the SFC's would preserve your body panels and glass...
ramey
Sometimes the simple solutions work best.
I'm sure a big rear bar would easily tune the twist out of it. And like I said, SFC's would certainly help.
You could actually get it leaving pretty flat with just the bar but the extra insurance provided by the SFC's would preserve your body panels and glass...
ramey
If you stiffen things up and tune the drag bar properly (there are adjustable end links to allow you to preload) it could potentially quit pulling the tire.
I have a feeling you have enough power and traction it'll pull the front perfectly evenly at about half the existing height.
Adding some relocation brackets could reduce the tendency to wheelstand as well since you have enough traction to plant the chassis harder.
After it's pulling straight, it's shock tuning time.
ramey
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=196
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...Path=7_113_263
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=326
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=115
I have a feeling you have enough power and traction it'll pull the front perfectly evenly at about half the existing height.
Adding some relocation brackets could reduce the tendency to wheelstand as well since you have enough traction to plant the chassis harder.
After it's pulling straight, it's shock tuning time.
ramey
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=196
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...Path=7_113_263
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=326
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=115
The car's launch is crooked because of the suspension...and physics. The adjustable rear anti-roll bar is terrific for this violent launch, but I would highly consider a set of adjustable front shocks to control the behavior of the front end. Lots of wasted energy that could be transferred into forward momentum very easily.
At this point I would certainly say an adjustable anti-roll bar and subframes are a must for you. Our roll bar is a complete bolt-in design and out new design has already seen 1.21 60foot times. Our subframes are on 7-, 8-, and 9-second cars, so you should have no trouble growing into them!
- Kevin
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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From: Durant ok
Like i said Thank's for the help!!!!! U all have good suspension parts.... Right now car makes 530rwhp. 150 shot makes 682rwhp & 783rwtq. About to put the 250 pills in and give her hell. LOL
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Durant ok
On the SFC looks like my exhaust will not work. How low will i have to lower the exhaust pipe to clear them. It's got 3" dual from the headers. Or will i have to do anything?? On the anti-roll bar the adjustable part is there a different set up for track/street? Sorry for all the ???? a little green on the rear suspension!! Tires it has a 28X10.5wX15
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Kentwood, LA and Beebe AR
Subframe connectors will help a little but what you really need is a good anti-roll bar. Using a good anti-roll bar like the BMR one we make will keep the chassis from twisting and allow you to launch straight and even which will make the car more consistent. Here is a picture of the BMR anti-roll bar which is bolt-in item with no welding required.
On the SFC looks like my exhaust will not work. How low will i have to lower the exhaust pipe to clear them. It's got 3" dual from the headers. Or will i have to do anything?? On the anti-roll bar the adjustable part is there a different set up for track/street? Sorry for all the ???? a little green on the rear suspension!!!
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=191
Our bar has one hole for the end link. The adjustment comes from preload if your car doesn't leave straight. You can adjust some roll into the car at rest so it straightens on launch by shortening and lengthening the turnbuckles.
No problem on the questions. That's how we all learn. I'll be the first to admit I only know about 8% of what it takes to go fast. The rest of it I research like anyone else.
ramey