MrBluGruv

Hello folks,

I currently have a stock-suspension 2002 Camaro SS and I'm looking to do some suspension upgrades.

After much reading, I've homed in on doing Bilstein shocks all around and a panhard rod and Poly/Roto-Joint LCAs to accompany in the back.

My criteria/usage for the car is not very rough daily driving, occasional spirited sprints from a low speed or from a dig.

I want to improve the suspension to both reduce wheelhop (Christ, these cars are bad about that stock) and to help the car feel a little better planted than stock, as the roads around here are less than stellar.

Notes:
-This car will NOT be lowered, ever.
-I do not see auto-x or road course racing in this cars future.
-The car may or may not see a drag strip under my ownership.


Ultimately, I want a car that i don't have to feel scared to push in 1st gear without breaking rear axles and that doesn't feel like it may break loose from hitting a small pothole in a turn.



Now, my questions, considering all the above:

1. Does this seem like a reasonable setup?
2. Would it be reasonable to get the LCAs and panhard rod first and install, or should I get the shocks first and see how much I really need the LCAs and panhard rod?

3. (kinda exploring #2 more) is it possible that good shocks will eliminate wheel hop to the point where I could conceivably not need LCAs and a panhard rod?



I appreciate any and all thoughts on the subject. Suspension is still one of those areas I have a LOT to learn in.


Thanks guys.

Thule

the bilstien shocks will i.m.o do excatly what you want from them, the bilsteins give a grate ride, and work best in the orginal ride heigth. they will improve your car alot, but having a SS 02, check first if you dont have them.

i know the wheelhop from my own car when it was stock, after lca's/tubular control arms it was just like some other car. went dead straigth and no wheelhop

MrBluGruv

I actually did think about that right about the time I started writing my original post. Luckily for me, the original SLP build sheet came with the car when I bought it, and from what I can tell, the only on-car modification done besides the Hurst short-throw shifter was the Single/Dual CME setup. Is there anything I can look for physically on the car as an indicator that I have Bilsteins and not deCarbons though, just to be sure?

Thule

look at the dampers themself, if they are yellow they are bilsteins, otherwise they are yellow

TransAmWS.6

Yup, this is the easiest way to do it. However, the DeCarbon's are orange and the Blistens are yellow.

MrBluGruv

Thank you guys for the info.

I'm thinking I'll go ahead with the LCAs and panhard rod now, and in a few months maybe go for the shocks. I want to better equip my suspension before I start adding more power anyways, I figure if I can't put stock power to the ground reliably, why would I want to add more on top of it before I can even put it to good use?

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Basically, you're just looking to improve the driving characteristics of your car on the road. The parts you've listed are the essentials that I feel will improve all the areas you've looked to gain in performance. I might suggest subframe connectors because they will stiffen the chassis and reduce the likelihood of waves developing in the rear quarter panels from chassis flex.

The lower control arms main purpose is to propel the body of the car forward. As a matter of fact, it's the only part connected to the rearend that transfers forward momentum into the body. From the factory, the lower control arms are made from a stamped steel and have a U-shaped design that is pretty weak. Internally, there are rubber bushings. When power is applied to the rearend and sent through the tires, the rearend on the car will try to move forward. All this power is transfered into the lower control arms through the rubber bushings. The rubber will then compress as it tries to push the heavy weight forward. Once it has reached it's full level of compression, it will typically "bounce" back and the price will be repeated over and over - causing wheel hop. This is why going to a polyurethane or rod-ended lower control arm is more efficient than the factory unit. It greatly reduces flex and adds to the overall strength of the part.

The panhard bar actually shares the same overall design as the factory lower control arms, therefore it is plagued with the same problems. However, these problems are realized through lateral movement and deflection. It's job is to located the rearend in the back of the car and give it an archway to move under suspension travel. This means the location of the rearend is controlled by these same rubber bushings and flexible bar design. Going to a tubular bar with a better bushing solution will add precision to the component and locate the rear more correctly, allowing the surrounding components to do their job more efficiently.

If you're wondering why the cars were designed this way, it's very simple: they're quiet and they get the job done. These thick rubber bushings may have give in them, but they're extremely effective at lowering NVH (Noise Vibration and Harshness) you encounter when you drive everyday. Changing over to ANYTHING other than these rubber bushings will increase noise to some degree. But if increased performance and precision are your goals, changing out these components are really in your best interest.

The Bilstiens are a great all-around choice for what you're looking to do and I think you'll be very happy with the ride and performance they will offer.

I hope this helps explain a little bit about the suspension components.

- Kevin

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

For your setup I'd try non-adjustable PHB and LCA's along with a set of relocation brackets to enhance forward traction.

ramey

MrBluGruv

My best understanding of the relocation brackets is for retaining correct suspension geometry for lowered cars. Is this incorrect? If so, what have I not found yet in my research? I want to be sure I understand what these components will do for me before I make my final purchase.

MrBluGruv

Thank you for the clarification.

I checked, factory DeCarbons for me. In a way it's a good thing though, I'd be pretty disappointed if my car rode like it did with Bilsteins.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Good evening.

Relocation brackets have two sets of holes, traditionally.

The top set usually corrects suspension back to stock geometry. The lower hole provides enhanced traction through suspension geometry adjustment.

With the "if some is good, more is better" approach we can use relo's even on stock height cars to enhance traction.

ramey

Azar_Hawke

iTrader: (5)

I'd go with what these guys said. Maybe consider upgrading your torque arm and relocating it off the transmission as well?