LCA relo bracket question
#1
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LCA relo bracket question
I'm sure this has been beat to death but I haven't found the answer as of yet. I have relocation brackets on my car with stock springs, should I throw the lca's in the top(original) hole or the middle hole? I already know that the bottom hole is for lowered cars but wasn't sure if stock ride height out back would benefit from dropping it to the middle. Thanks
#3
IMO you could use any hole you wanted. Only negitive is the more the control arm points upwards back to front, the more the rear "toes out" when cornering which could make hard cornering twitchy and tail happy. Also there could be brake hop issues. There's a thread on here somewhere that a guy made his own relocation brackets that created extreme angles and he seemed happy with em performance wise.
Found it actually:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...n-extreme.html
Found it actually:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...n-extreme.html
Last edited by David_viny; 03-03-2012 at 01:02 PM.
#4
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^^^that was my testing.
LCA relocation brackets,when properly designed/manufactured don't change ride height. Utilizing the center holes brings the LCAs' to a 'neutral' position,the ideal situation for all-around 'normal' use. Using the bottom holes increases acceleration traction and supposedly decreases braking traction.
LCA relocation brackets,when properly designed/manufactured don't change ride height. Utilizing the center holes brings the LCAs' to a 'neutral' position,the ideal situation for all-around 'normal' use. Using the bottom holes increases acceleration traction and supposedly decreases braking traction.
#6
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Hmmm, I will clear some things up.
The control arm relocation brackets shouldn't be classified as an item for lowered cars, as we designed them to increase positive anti-squat in a drag application. This increased "angle of attack" puts more leverage on the body of the vehicle which can help get the car moving with less effort and makes the tire "bite" harder. It's the lower control arms that receive the forces that propel the vehicle forward, so if you can make them more effective at their job, you'll see the benefit at the track. On a lowered car, you can use them to simply correct your geometry back to stock, or take advantage of the potential performance benefits.
It's a great peace. You can install them and keep them at stock settings on the street, or you can run them down in the lowest hole all you want. It's up to you as it can be done track side without altering alignment.
The downside to the increased angle is that it makes another job of the LCAs harder - this is articulation. By dropping them down to a lower position, the rearend will be more susceptible to suspension bind, which essentially increases roll rate and makes the rearend less nimble. If you enter a corner and the rear doesn't want to move, the forces asking the rear to move are still present, so they shift somewhere else. Ultimately, this could translate into increasing oversteer. However, oversteer is something greatly exaggerated on the forums and I wouldn't worry about it. I've owned three F-bodies ALL with lower control arm relocation brackets and none of them presented a violent oversteer scenario on the street or on the track...Oh...and the Boss 302 S racecars COME WITH THEM...so don't listen to everything you read/see. A way around this possibility is to keep using your factory lower control arms, or run one of our lower control arms with the option rubber bushings that have more flex, or a version with rod ends.
- Kevin
The control arm relocation brackets shouldn't be classified as an item for lowered cars, as we designed them to increase positive anti-squat in a drag application. This increased "angle of attack" puts more leverage on the body of the vehicle which can help get the car moving with less effort and makes the tire "bite" harder. It's the lower control arms that receive the forces that propel the vehicle forward, so if you can make them more effective at their job, you'll see the benefit at the track. On a lowered car, you can use them to simply correct your geometry back to stock, or take advantage of the potential performance benefits.
It's a great peace. You can install them and keep them at stock settings on the street, or you can run them down in the lowest hole all you want. It's up to you as it can be done track side without altering alignment.
The downside to the increased angle is that it makes another job of the LCAs harder - this is articulation. By dropping them down to a lower position, the rearend will be more susceptible to suspension bind, which essentially increases roll rate and makes the rearend less nimble. If you enter a corner and the rear doesn't want to move, the forces asking the rear to move are still present, so they shift somewhere else. Ultimately, this could translate into increasing oversteer. However, oversteer is something greatly exaggerated on the forums and I wouldn't worry about it. I've owned three F-bodies ALL with lower control arm relocation brackets and none of them presented a violent oversteer scenario on the street or on the track...Oh...and the Boss 302 S racecars COME WITH THEM...so don't listen to everything you read/see. A way around this possibility is to keep using your factory lower control arms, or run one of our lower control arms with the option rubber bushings that have more flex, or a version with rod ends.
- Kevin
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#8
The original goal was to use relocation brackets to correct the LCA angle back to slightly downhill toward the rear. Once hot rodders got involved, the additional lowering became common. More lowering equals more forward bite at the (ever so slight) detriment of roll oversteer. Some guys like to lower the trailing arm only enough to create that slight lowering at the rear of the arm.
In summary, either location is fine if you are willing to test and tune and find what works best.
Thanks for considering UMI
Ramey
In summary, either location is fine if you are willing to test and tune and find what works best.
Thanks for considering UMI
Ramey
#9
On The Tree
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The original goal was to use relocation brackets to correct the LCA angle back to slightly downhill toward the rear. Once hot rodders got involved, the additional lowering became common. More lowering equals more forward bite at the (ever so slight) detriment of roll oversteer. Some guys like to lower the trailing arm only enough to create that slight lowering at the rear of the arm.
In summary, either location is fine if you are willing to test and tune and find what works best.
Thanks for considering UMI
Ramey
In summary, either location is fine if you are willing to test and tune and find what works best.
Thanks for considering UMI
Ramey
#11
TECH Resident
iTrader: (5)
No dude, you'll be fine. I have a set of UMI bolt on relos, black. Never ran or bolted up, but they were test fit. I ended up going 9". I will sell them shipped for 75% of the cheapest price you can find that I can verify, pm if interested.
I run my 9" on the lowest, traction increase is dramatic, stock height car.
I also have a bunch of brand new adjustable rear stuff I'm going to sell if I ever get off my butt and post it, if interested...lcas, ta, phb...same 75% deal.
I run my 9" on the lowest, traction increase is dramatic, stock height car.
I also have a bunch of brand new adjustable rear stuff I'm going to sell if I ever get off my butt and post it, if interested...lcas, ta, phb...same 75% deal.
#12
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (40)
Like other have said, no matter what hole you decide to run your lower control arm in on the relocation brackets the tire wear will be the same.
__________________
Glenn ***
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www.bmrsuspension.com
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Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
#13
But to answer your question it depends on what you are doing. The angle of the control arm in relation to the chassis mounting point is what to look at. With the suspension fully loaded are the control arms flat or pointed down or up on the rear axel. The steeper the downard angle on the control arms the more forward bite you have. In my experience.
#14
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
Thanks for the help guys!
Damn, wish I woulda seen this before I placed my order for relos and arms!
No dude, you'll be fine. I have a set of UMI bolt on relos, black. Never ran or bolted up, but they were test fit. I ended up going 9". I will sell them shipped for 75% of the cheapest price you can find that I can verify, pm if interested.
I run my 9" on the lowest, traction increase is dramatic, stock height car.
I also have a bunch of brand new adjustable rear stuff I'm going to sell if I ever get off my butt and post it, if interested...lcas, ta, phb...same 75% deal.
I run my 9" on the lowest, traction increase is dramatic, stock height car.
I also have a bunch of brand new adjustable rear stuff I'm going to sell if I ever get off my butt and post it, if interested...lcas, ta, phb...same 75% deal.