Solid vs Hollow Front Swaybar?
#1
Solid vs Hollow Front Swaybar?
Hey Guys,
Im not that big into the suspension stuff but im going to be upgrading my front swaybar since both ears are cracked and rusted. Ive found a solid BMR 32 or 35mm swaybar for 100 bucks. I know they are heavy and the Hollow Strano bars are a huge rave. The car is mainly a cruiser and dont roadrace and will hit the track once or twice a year. Would i be better off passing and getting a hollow or for what i need it will be more then adequate?
Im not that big into the suspension stuff but im going to be upgrading my front swaybar since both ears are cracked and rusted. Ive found a solid BMR 32 or 35mm swaybar for 100 bucks. I know they are heavy and the Hollow Strano bars are a huge rave. The car is mainly a cruiser and dont roadrace and will hit the track once or twice a year. Would i be better off passing and getting a hollow or for what i need it will be more then adequate?
#3
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That seems way to big unless you do drag race. I'd at least swap out the rear bar, if it were me. I've been running a stock bar for some time, and actually liked that more then an after market one. But I've finally decided to try another bar, so see if it's worth it or not. Just ordered a 22mm hollow one from Strano.
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i think the solid would be fine for what youre going to be doing with your vehicle. Sam would be the one to ask though, he will shoot you straight for whatever goals you have in mind for your car.
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In most cases going with a hollow bar you don't lose much stiffness but you shed a bit of lbs. I had a 35mm suspension techniques solid bar and went to the Strano 35mm hollow front. I lost 11 lbs off the front end and it's pretty close in stiffness.
#7
We have a 35/22 solid combo which is pretty balanced. As mentioned above, if you don't mind the extra weight a solid 35 works great.
Is your car loose, or oversteering, with the 25 mm rear?
ramey
Is your car loose, or oversteering, with the 25 mm rear?
ramey
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#9
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#10
Its a cruiser and a straightline go car but do some spirited driving from time to time. Im grabbing this BMR cause its a great deal and my stock non WS6 bar is rusted and cracked.
Stock Front Springs and Shocks
Stock Rear Springs and KYB AGX Adj Shocks
UMI Strutbar
UMI Adj RLCA's
UMI Adj PHB
UMI PHB Relo Kit
UMI RLCA Relo Brackets
Spohn Tubular Weld In SFC
Custom Fabbed "BMR Track Pack" style Torque Arm
Suspension Techniques 25mm Rear Swaybar
Stock Front Springs and Shocks
Stock Rear Springs and KYB AGX Adj Shocks
UMI Strutbar
UMI Adj RLCA's
UMI Adj PHB
UMI PHB Relo Kit
UMI RLCA Relo Brackets
Spohn Tubular Weld In SFC
Custom Fabbed "BMR Track Pack" style Torque Arm
Suspension Techniques 25mm Rear Swaybar
#11
TECH Senior Member
Its a cruiser and a straightline go car but do some spirited driving from time to time. Im grabbing this BMR cause its a great deal and my stock non WS6 bar is rusted and cracked.
Stock Front Springs and Shocks
Stock Rear Springs and KYB AGX Adj Shocks
UMI Strutbar
UMI Adj RLCA's
UMI Adj PHB
UMI PHB Relo Kit
UMI RLCA Relo Brackets
Spohn Tubular Weld In SFC
Custom Fabbed "BMR Track Pack" style Torque Arm
Suspension Techniques 25mm Rear Swaybar
Stock Front Springs and Shocks
Stock Rear Springs and KYB AGX Adj Shocks
UMI Strutbar
UMI Adj RLCA's
UMI Adj PHB
UMI PHB Relo Kit
UMI RLCA Relo Brackets
Spohn Tubular Weld In SFC
Custom Fabbed "BMR Track Pack" style Torque Arm
Suspension Techniques 25mm Rear Swaybar
Either that or you may just be used to a harder ride with the aftermarket LCA (probably poly bushings right?) and AGXs on the back (turned up to a high-ish setting too?) They adjust compression and rebound with the same ****, so I could see the ride getting quite a bit choppy in higher settings with the added compression.