need help, 1.9 60ft. with over 540 hp/tq
09-01-2012, 06:06 PM
#1
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need help, 1.9 60ft. with over 540 hp/tq what exactly do I need here? I have g2 lower control arms non adjustable, umi frame mounted torque arm adjustable, double diamond subframe connectors, stock springs and shocks, (probably a big part in it) moser 12 bolt 3.73 gears, 28 10 m/t et streets on 15 prostars, i have lowering springs on stock struts up front, car is pretty much just a drag car but i do drive it on the street. Still has a/c full interior i just need someone to tell me exactly what i need to get for the track. it just is NOT hooking!
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09-02-2012, 09:51 AM
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Personal preference. I don't believe just sitting in a car and smashing the gas is real racing. It's how I bought the car and how ill keep it. So, stock springs with adjustable shocks or what?
09-02-2012, 09:55 AM
#13
Radials are never gonna take that kinda power without a slipper clutch. Get some bias ply's. Qa1's are a decent shock. I have a used set if ur interested. I didnt like the ride quality so I switched to Koni DA's. Stock springs really arent that bad. Right now the tires are your biggest problem.
Ryan
Ryan
09-02-2012, 10:08 AM
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Radials are never gonna take that kinda power without a slipper clutch. Get some bias ply's. Qa1's are a decent shock. I have a used set if ur interested. I didnt like the ride quality so I switched to Koni DA's. Stock springs really arent that bad. Right now the tires are your biggest problem.
Ryan
Ryan
09-02-2012, 10:26 AM
#15
Go with stock springs in the rear with a QA1 12 way adjustable shock. Set it right in the middle for your first pass. QA1 front shock with a 275-300 in/lb spring. Take the front sway bar off. Set the front shocks loose (1 or 2 clicks from the loosest setting). From there set the radials to about 10 psi. Launching at 4500 will pull the front end off the ground about 3-4" assuming there's good track prep. Last car I set up like that ran an 11.5 and he was cam only. He also had steel shift forks, a centerforce clutch and a 12 bolt out back, but he was still full weight
09-02-2012, 10:31 AM
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Go with stock springs in the rear with a QA1 12 way adjustable shock. Set it right in the middle for your first pass. QA1 front shock with a 275-300 in/lb spring. Take the front sway bar off. Set the front shocks loose (1 or 2 clicks from the loosest setting). From there set the radials to about 10 psi. Launching at 4500 will pull the front end off the ground about 3-4" assuming there's good track prep. Last car I set up like that ran an 11.5 and he was cam only. He also had steel shift forks, a centerforce clutch and a 12 bolt out back, but he was still full weight
09-02-2012, 10:37 AM
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You need to be able to adjust the lower control arms. You need rear control arm re location brackets. You need an adjustable pan- hard bar. Then you will need to do some work.
The rear needs to be centered left - right. You need the rear centered fore to aft.
Then find the I/C of the car adjust you T- arm and control arms from there.
Its hard for me to write all this out do a search. Here goes any way you want the rear control arms to point up at there front mounting point. They need to intersect the T- arm. You can do this with string. Drop a piece from the front t arm mounting point then run another piece from the frt rear control arm point. The two pieces should intersect with the string from the rear going up towards the frt of the car . The higher the better.
This is a good start.
Most door cars use the shifter mounting point as the center of gravity the I/C should be located behind it.
Set the pinion 1 degree down at the rear end. Check you drive line angle to see that your drive shaft isn't in a bind.
The T-arm usally works best when its pointing up just like the control arms. Postion it in the upper mounting holes. You then use the adjustable rear part to set the rear pinion angle.
stock springs are ok frt and rear. shocks depend on how serious you get. You do need adjustable type.
On drag radials you want to hit them hard and hold them to the track as long as possible.
The rear needs to be centered left - right. You need the rear centered fore to aft.
Then find the I/C of the car adjust you T- arm and control arms from there.
Its hard for me to write all this out do a search. Here goes any way you want the rear control arms to point up at there front mounting point. They need to intersect the T- arm. You can do this with string. Drop a piece from the front t arm mounting point then run another piece from the frt rear control arm point. The two pieces should intersect with the string from the rear going up towards the frt of the car . The higher the better.
This is a good start.
Most door cars use the shifter mounting point as the center of gravity the I/C should be located behind it.
Set the pinion 1 degree down at the rear end. Check you drive line angle to see that your drive shaft isn't in a bind.
The T-arm usally works best when its pointing up just like the control arms. Postion it in the upper mounting holes. You then use the adjustable rear part to set the rear pinion angle.
stock springs are ok frt and rear. shocks depend on how serious you get. You do need adjustable type.
On drag radials you want to hit them hard and hold them to the track as long as possible.