Do i need to move my LCAs down a hole? launch video
#1
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im thinking i need more anti squat. lcas are level at ride height but most certainly going negative on the launch. any advice?
http://youtu.be/92v-yf_foZU
http://youtu.be/92v-yf_foZU
#3
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That is what I was thinking also. Is the car dead hooking at the launch or is it spinning? I watched the video but wasn't really able to tell.
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#4
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im thinking i need more anti squat. lcas are level at ride height but most certainly going negative on the launch. any advice?
http://youtu.be/92v-yf_foZU
http://youtu.be/92v-yf_foZU
Which shocks are on it? Tires? What's your 60ft?
Tell us more about your chassis mods. Looks like your powerplant is working nicely and based on your signature, your parts combo looks sweet.
ramey
#5
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the rear suspension compresses when i shift going down the track.
i have all poly bushings in the car. intrax rear lowering springs to correct the ride height from the 9". no front sway bar. i have drag bags but car launchs better with them empty. kyb gas adjust rear shocks. lca reloc brackets.
i have all poly bushings in the car. intrax rear lowering springs to correct the ride height from the 9". no front sway bar. i have drag bags but car launchs better with them empty. kyb gas adjust rear shocks. lca reloc brackets.
#6
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the rear suspension compresses when i shift going down the track.
i have all poly bushings in the car. intrax rear lowering springs to correct the ride height from the 9". no front sway bar. i have drag bags but car launchs better with them empty. kyb gas adjust rear shocks. lca reloc brackets.
i have all poly bushings in the car. intrax rear lowering springs to correct the ride height from the 9". no front sway bar. i have drag bags but car launchs better with them empty. kyb gas adjust rear shocks. lca reloc brackets.
A good anti-roll bar will also help you out with consistent launches and better 60ft times. The air bags are just a band aid to an anti-roll bar so I would get rid of them in favor of the anti-roll bar.
What kind of 60ft times are you currently running and how is the car generally hooking at the track?
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#7
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ive gone to the track 3 times in the last couple weeks, its been cold up here so cant blame everything on the car best 60' with 26x11.5 quick time pros 1.705, car bogged. ive pulled 1.75, 1.77, 1.79. alot of 1.8s blowing the tires off. i have a sintered iron clutch that i can tune static pressure, it will help get rid of the bog. my goal is 1.50s when i put more money into the suspension. right now i would just like to get it more consistent.
i would really like to setup the car up for mickey thompson drag radials (i know i know) but i want a street legal tire that i can drive to and from the track with as well as street miles.
my next changes were going to be a drag bar and a trak pak torque arm kit.
that run in the video was a 1.79 60' tires turned over a bit at the drop of the clutch. went 12.16 @ 112.46
i would really like to setup the car up for mickey thompson drag radials (i know i know) but i want a street legal tire that i can drive to and from the track with as well as street miles.
my next changes were going to be a drag bar and a trak pak torque arm kit.
that run in the video was a 1.79 60' tires turned over a bit at the drop of the clutch. went 12.16 @ 112.46
Last edited by SLP IROC-Z; 10-31-2012 at 12:40 PM.
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#8
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Just a couple weeks ago my full weight bone stock suspension aside from summit brand drags shocks in the rear went high 1.6 60. Fts. Its m6 also cam only, and track prep wasn't spectacular. I agree that your shocks may be where its hiding. I wouldn't really spend much on throwing suspension at it til you get it working a lil better. What rpm are you leaving at? Just dumping the clutch?
#9
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What is see is the front lifts slightly, transfers weight to rear, rear instantly squats (absorbing what should be hitting the tires) and the car starts to leave. At that point it all goes to ****. the rear comes up and front starts to bounce unloading and spinning. even with those **** 60's It is spinning like crazy and thats why any aditional power sends the tires up in smoke.
What to do about it?
Cheap and easy, but hit or miss, semi effective bandaid is to increase the antisquat with the lower control arms and pinion angle. the idea is to keep the wheel down and not allow the body to come downward in relation to the wheel. This will allow all of the weight transfer to go to the tire. If it doesnt go down it will not allow it to go up after the plant unloading the tires.
Car really needs shocks and antiroll bar. even a single adjustable set at about 70% tight to start with.
What to do about it?
Cheap and easy, but hit or miss, semi effective bandaid is to increase the antisquat with the lower control arms and pinion angle. the idea is to keep the wheel down and not allow the body to come downward in relation to the wheel. This will allow all of the weight transfer to go to the tire. If it doesnt go down it will not allow it to go up after the plant unloading the tires.
Car really needs shocks and antiroll bar. even a single adjustable set at about 70% tight to start with.
#11
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from what your saying im understanding the car needs stiffer rear shocks so less weight/energy is absorbed into the springs instead putting more weight on the rear tires.
when you say pinion angle are you referring to actual pinion angle or the torque arm angle, ie: instant center?
so i guess drag shocks and the rollbar will be my first plan of attack. i can definitly see the need for the drag shocks in the front since the front end doesnt stay up in the air, it bounces alot.
what do you think about a short torque arm?
when you say pinion angle are you referring to actual pinion angle or the torque arm angle, ie: instant center?
so i guess drag shocks and the rollbar will be my first plan of attack. i can definitly see the need for the drag shocks in the front since the front end doesnt stay up in the air, it bounces alot.
what do you think about a short torque arm?
#12
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I would start at increasing the anti squat using the lower control arms (put them in the lower hole) and adding pinion angle (start by adding 1* at a timeuntill you get vibration then back it off). Dont change a lot at once. If your torque arm is adjustble you can also look at that. Do all the free stuff first, then look at the things that cost money like the shocks and antiroll bar.
Last edited by koolrayz; 12-11-2012 at 07:42 PM.
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op you should probably put your car back to stock and start over. You have alot goin on there to have only run a 12.02 @ 112. I don't know if you have bad parts or just a bad combo. But that's slow for a bolt-on car with your mods. Get rid of those 4.30 gears to, they are hurting your mph.
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You have a few of areas that need attention!! M6 cars need a good susp. so get a proven TA (UMI,BMR), before buying shocks try adding air to the dragbags 1# at a time (start w/the right side), if that doesn't work then buy shocks and a drag bar. Also, you're running 4.30s w/ a 26" tire and a Z06 cam, seems like you need more cam to take advantage of the engine mods and the rpm range you're in. When you get the MT DRs you can go to a 295/55-15 (27.75") or 275/60-15 (28") tire if the 26" tire isn't working. Good Luck!! Larry
#15
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op you should probably put your car back to stock and start over. You have alot goin on there to have only run a 12.02 @ 112. I don't know if you have bad parts or just a bad combo. But that's slow for a bolt-on car with your mods. Get rid of those 4.30 gears to, they are hurting your mph.
#16
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Why would I want to back my car up?? I know better than to go to the track with all those issues. The problem is not what hole your lca's are in........it's all the junk in your trunk....lmao
#17
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You have a few of areas that need attention!! M6 cars need a good susp. so get a proven TA (UMI,BMR), before buying shocks try adding air to the dragbags 1# at a time (start w/the right side), if that doesn't work then buy shocks and a drag bar. Also, you're running 4.30s w/ a 26" tire and a Z06 cam, seems like you need more cam to take advantage of the engine mods and the rpm range you're in. When you get the MT DRs you can go to a 295/55-15 (27.75") or 275/60-15 (28") tire if the 26" tire isn't working. Good Luck!! Larry
#18
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ive played with the bags, it 60s better with them empty. the drag bar and shocks are my top priority as far as suspension goes. top of the list right now is getting the car ready to be tuned. it still has the 99 intake manifold and injectors and a 99 tune. the rev limiter is way to low for an "ls6", its at 6200rpm right now where a stock ls6 tune is at 6600. the 4.30s will be perfect for the power and rpms it will have all said and done.
Kyle
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