cgormanZ28

2002 Camaro Z28, 4L60E, Stock 10 bolt.


Which company makes the lower control arm relocation brackets with
the 3 hole design??

What adjustable torque arms are you guys using? (BMR, Spohn, ect.)

Which torque arms are compatible with the crossmembers that offer
a torque arm relocation bracket to a stock 4L60E?

What rear lower control arms should I be looking at if I'm going to be lowering
the car.

Application is for a daily street car/ road racing.
Websites or threads would be great, pictures are always a great thing to.

In the future I'm going to be running a strange 12 bolt, I'm wanting to
transfer all of this without major fabrication if possible. Thanks.

eteller

For handling you do not want relocation brackets, same with the heavier 12 bolt. For the torque arm, I'd go with a light long arm, such as a UMI.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

I'm curious as to why you are set on LCA brackets with 3 holes? Our 2-position brackets haven been working well on thousands of cars for years.

I would recommend sticking with all one brand to ensure proper part fitment and compatibility. All of our parts are proven to work with factory and aftermarket rears as well. Give us a call and we can price you out a package deal for all the parts you are needing.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

This actually is not accurate, especially if the vehicle is lowered for handling. The control arm angles change once a vehicle is lowered, and your anti-squat angle becomes negative. This actually unloads the back tires and causes wheel spin upon acceleration out of the corner. Also the arms are farther up in their arc of travel and can actually change axle position under load. A lowered vehicle needs relocation brackets, no matter the application. Even in stock height form, there are many benefits to relocation brackets.

z-maro

iTrader: (18)

I found the MWC long T/A and tans x-member package to be the best value by far.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

If you're going to be in competition, check the rules first to see whether your desired mods will place you in an uncompetitive class. Your first three mods should be seat time, then more seat time, and finally a lot more seat time Based upon that seat time, take notes on what you want to change about the cars behavior.

Unless you have a lot of seat time and plan to do some competitions, changing from the stock torque arm isn't that worth it. You'd gain a lot more with control arm relocation brackets and panhard bar relocation brackets and still be cheaper then buying an adjustable torque arm, let alone fab/R&D time of something more complex. That being said, I have used a decoupled torque arm from Unbalanced Engineering since 2004. It is adjustable in the sense that you set the preload on the snubber, but once it's set on race rubber, no further adjustment is normally needed. The price tends to put people off, though.

http://unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/TA/

For a well-handling vehicle, you want the LCA's to be level or have the frame side very slightly down (5-8*). For the LCA's themselves, I'd stick with stock (using Moog replacement bushings) if there aren't any fitment issues.

If you have tire interference with the stock LCA's, use a combination of wheel spacers, wheel backspacing and thinner aftermarket LCA. If you have to buy a thinner LCA, square tubular LCAs won't do anything that round tubular LCAs can do with less weight. The ends on the aftermarket tubular will be a compromise between performance and the amount of NVH (noise, vibration & harshness) you're willing to put up with. Heim joints are the best but are noisy, good ones cost $30+/ea. There are also hybrid solutions which use different components on each end... heim, del-sphere, rotojoint, poly, etc. If you must use poly, only use it on one end.

For brackets, I would only recommend the weld-on variety; having more holes in the brackets may allow you more granularity on setting the angle. If you're a perfectionist, you may end up drilling your own holes anyway. Years ago I chose the UMI 2010 model, my LCA's are ~2* down in the front.

LCA relocation brackets for a handling vehicle:
http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=11174

Search/post to the above forum to contact the handling geeks

JD_AMG

If you don't already have good shocks, springs and swaybars then forget about all this as you are wasting your time.
None of what you are asking about will make a significant change in handling, and the 12 bolt will only further hurt things.
Relocation brackets are not necessary and can hurt handling. You're actually changing the rear roll center when you change the rear LCA angle like that, and its not for the better...

eteller

I do have relocation brackets as my car will see a little strip time but I recall when mentioning them to Sam Strano in a thread his response was "loose them" for handling purposes.