Blk98ls1

iTrader: (3)

Vehicle is a 98 Camaro Z28, Sam Strano springs, KYB AGX shocks. I had a small accident where I hopped a curb. Took it into Big Brand Tire September 2013 and had an alignment done: Results were as follows:

Before L R
Camber:-0.3 1.0
Caster: 5.3 5.7
Toe: -0.75 -0.78
After L R
Camber:-0.2 0.1
Caster: 4.6 4.9
Toe: 0.03 0.03

Fast forward to February 2014 only approximately 2,000 miles later steering wheel is slightly off center to the left and vehicle pulls to the right. I'm now living 100 or so miles away from Big Brand Tire so I take it into Firestone to get the alignment done and I am out in an hour. Steering wheel straight vehicle tracks straight.

June 2014 steering wheel has slowly become off-center to the left again and vehicle pulls to the right. I had to make a quick stop, full brake application. After the stop steering wheel is severely to the left and vehicle pulls like crazy to the right. I take it back into firestone still under warranty, only 1,000 miles have passed since February, they adjust the toe which was -1.3 or something extreme on both left and right. Caster and Camber are off as well. They adjust the toe to zero, but tell me they cannot adjust caster or camber because they don't have the correct tool. The steering wheel is now better and only slightly off center and vehicle still pulls to the right. They refund my money and tell me to try a dealership.

I took it into the dealer today for an alignment and the guy calls me an hour later. He says they can't perform the alignment due to the vehicle being lowered on aftermarket suspension and having "worn out suspension components." He quotes me $110 to give the vehicle an "inspection" and tell me which components needed replacement. He calls back and says they need to replace the struts and springs back to stock and a "torn" strut mount on the passenger side before they can do a proper alignment and get it to factory specs. I said no thanks and requested they do an alignment and get it as close as they can. He said the manager wouldn't let them do it because it wouldn't come out right. I pay them for the "inspection" and take my vehicle. I go to a pep boys and they stick it on the rack, they tell me they don't have the tool to correct the caster either. They tell me to take it to a dealer...No charge.

Now I'm sitting here wondering what could make the toe go so far out of spec so quickly, trying to find a place that can correct the caster and camber, and pissed off. Any ideas?

1BAD02WS6

iTrader: (-1)

Worn bushings, tie rods and play in the steering shaft/rack can make the toe go out. I don't have the "tool" for adjusting our caster either.... But I do have a ratchet strap..... Works

Blk98ls1

iTrader: (3)

I replaced the rack and tie rod ends a few years ago I would say only 5,000 miles on them. But maybe something broke inside the rack when i hopped the curb, could this be the reason the toe goes negative so quickly? I think I found the tool for about $45 shipped. I might buy it and let a shop use it. I don't want to drive the car too far with the way it is now. I didnt realize worn bushings could affect the alignment so quickly, I'm sure the bushings need to be replaced soon as well.

RedLineWS6

Does the steering wheel have a loose feel to it? If you try to keep the car going in a perfect line, does it feel like its swaying and you have to correct for it? Does the force needed to turn the wheel become uneven while driving? All these point to a bad rack. Same thing happened to my car. Replaced the rack and all was good again.

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

I think one or the other of the bolts used to adjust the caster and/or camber were left a little loose and when you braked hard eather the caster /camber moved which would ALSO change the TOE a great amount.
Any good align tech can adjust the caster/camber with a pull strap/big screw driver, the align is easy to do without the " tool"
Go to several differant shops and talk to the tech face to face ask if they can do best can do with lowered car , you may need sone parts replaced but I dought rack is gone that guick ( I am lowered 1 3/4 to 2 " around and I can get Very close to OE specs, drive / wear great )
Good luck, Johnny

PS you may have a tire shifting a belt, try crossing the two front tires Side to Side for a short drive ( this will not hurt the tire for a short drive) if this does not help driving then cross the rear for a short drive, Have the alignment corrected First
Johnny

Blk98ls1

iTrader: (3)

Thank you for the replies. The steering feels while driving, I remember the loose feel before I changed the rack. What I'm thinking is maybe the first shop that did adjust the caster and camber left a bolt loose and since it hasn't been touched since its constantly been moving this whole time. I'm going to order the tool and take it back to a shop and see how close they can get it. Ill also tell them to make sure all of the bolts are tight. I can try switching the tires but they also have less than 3000 miles on them as well.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Turn the wheel all the way to the right(to lock) as hard as you can, drive the car....is the wheel crooked?

If so, turn the wheel all the way to the left(to lock) as hard as you can, drive the car....did the wheel go back straight?

If so the rack bushing is bad, mine did this and the steel sleeve was not in the bushing. Only one bushing in a LS car, on the passenger side.

If you changed racks and did not check for the steel sleeve in the bushing it probably isn't there.

ZForce1

I agree with above regarding possible worn parts, such as possibly the rack, BUT- if the shops are telling you they cannot do the alignment because of lowering springs/aftermarket suspension components, then, like pretty much every alignment shop I have ever seen, they have no clue what they are doing. It does sound like the A-arm bolts that are loosened to adjust caster/camber are coming loose. Happened to me before.