ROLEXrifleman

Part of the work I have planed is pulling off the calipers to rebuild them. There's nothing wrong with them but in order to paint them the way I want the best idea is to pull them off. At any rate, with the rebuild I was thinking of the speed bleeders. I also was thinking of buying a mityvac tool. has anyone done breaks with both and can you share your experience.

I think a mityvac is in the future no mater what as I can use to flush PS and check the cooling system, but strictly from a brake standpoint does it have an advantage over the bleeders?

And as a side not, if I wanted to completely drain my system, that's not an issue correct? I would just purge all the fluid till there was none left in the system and then fill it up and bleed as normal? Or would running it dry damage things?

TIA

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

Never run the system dry unless you want to spend countless hours bleeding the system, not to mention having to bench bleed the master cylinder. Just start bleeding the system as normal, let the master run down to almost empty, then top it off and keep bleeding. You will eventually flush all the old fluid out.

Never been a fan of speed bleeders, I've had some fail over time. Prefer doing it the old fashioned way. If I was going to spend money on a system to bleed, I would choose something like the Phoenix bleeder which forces fresh fluid from the calipers, up the lines, and into the master. Best way to remove air, since it likes to rise.

TEDSgrad

Heated brake fluid is nearest the caliper. By reverse bleeding, you force the worst of the fluid up into the rest of the system. Best to bleed out at the caliper.

Streetlegal?

iTrader: (25)

You don't use the Mityvac to pull all the fluid out of the system. Granted I guess you can but that's not what it's for. You pull a vacuum on the line and let the air bubble out then the new fluid that you have in the canister gets pulled in when you release the vacuum to fill the void. Mitvac is quite nice for doing the clutch if you don't have the speed bleeder.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Both, together, is the only way I've ever succeeded at
getting a firm pedal after bleeding brakes.

Z28 6spd

iTrader: (3)

I've used this Mityvac vacuum bleeder for several brake flushes/brake bleeding jobs and wouldn't do it any other way. It makes it very quick and easy for one person to bleed a system. I never had any issues with air in the system even after replacing all the lines on an ABS equipped vehicle.

Streetlegal?

iTrader: (25)

Ah that looks different from mine. I just have this one

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

Best way I've found to do it is use a syringe to empty the master reservoir, fill with new fluid, have someone pump the pedal while you work the bleeder at each caliper. It shouldn't take very long at all.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

The Mityvac that's compressor driven looks like it'd work very well.

joecar

I use a pressure bleeder at the master cylinder (can fabricate one from a walmart garden sprayer), open all 4 caliper bleed screws and let fluid out (simultaneously swapping in new fluid via the pressure bleeder).

If you have a bidir scantool you can also command the ABS solenoids to open/close while bleeding is progressing.

brigade24

I've got speed bleeders and i have used the mity vac...both work well. couldn't tell the difference in pedal feel one way or the other.

i kept my old bleeder screws in case the speed bleeders fail...as has been the case for some.

Troy

iTrader: (10)

Ditto on this thing. I've had the hand held mityvac and the air compressor assisted. This bleeder is a must have for me.

FirstGen F-Body

iTrader: (3)

I put all new lines in a Silverado, bleeding is easy if you have a buddy and a GM scan tool. I gravity bleed the whole system, manually bleed the master, manually bleed each hose connection, bleed at the calipers manually, preform a service bleed with the scanner, and then bleed at the calipers again manually. Took about 1/2hr