CarrotcarZ

iTrader: (10)

HEy guys, is it true that when you lower a car...any car...that you have to uprgade the panhard bar and install relocation brackets to keep the car's alignment from going out of whack????? Any help guys??

Gabe

calongo_SS

iTrader: (7)

Lowering your car changes the geometry of the suspension. You should get some Relocation brackets at the very least.

DARK AGE 53

I would go with the adjustable panhard rod then decide wheather you need the relocation brackets or not, it seems like the M6's need it more then the A4's do. BTW, If you decide to get the relocation brackets go with the BMR bolt-on ones. JMO

Al

SupahRich

iTrader: (14)

I say go with some relocation brackets as well. I lowered my car and every since then I get wheel hop like crazy when I really get on it. It's very very annoying, especially when you're trying to run someone Not to mention it would seem to me like there's a very good chance you're going to break something eventually

The BMR model looks like a nice product, they're the ones that I will be ordering shortly.

z28smokin

iTrader: (9)

I have the BMR bolt on relocation brackets and they are work great.

CarrotcarZ

iTrader: (10)

How do the bolt-in relocation brackets work versus the weld-in ones?? Do I have to get an adjustable panhard bar or could I just get a non-adjustable??

Gabe

DARK AGE 53

The weld-on and bolt-on work the same, if you don't mind having welding done on your car that might be the way to but I prefer the bolt-on type. You don't want the non-adjustable panhard rod, to center your wheels in the rear you want the adjustable panhard.

z28smokin

iTrader: (9)

I have weld in subframe connectors, but have bolt in relocation brackets. All of the bolt in relocation brackets were powder coated, but the weld in ones were not. You could always file some of the paint off the edge of the bolt in relocation bracket and have them weld it anyways. If you get the weld in and don't paint them, they'll rust.

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

If you lower the car you WILL want relocation brackets. Whether bolt-on or weld-in is up to you. I'm still using the BMR bolt-on's and have been happy with them over the years. They're quite stout and they also pick up on the lower rear shock bolt, so there is no chance of mislocating them as is the case with weld-ins. If you're concerned about strength, then you can always weld the bolt-ins as well.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Don't forget to get a front end wheel alignment done after lowering or you will be tearing up your tires.

1320_PERFORMANCE

Sold my weld ons to buy the bolt ons, alot higher quality and its thicker. did my relocation brackets and bmr t/a and wheel hop is gone, tire just or hooks.


Mark

2w0s060

The bolt ons should be no thincker then the weld ins, just have a extra leg that sticks out for the shock tower brace

1320_PERFORMANCE

I had both bmr weld on and bolt on my hands, compared it and the bolt on looked like it was a little thicker and better quality, jmo

Mark

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Take a look at what the front end of the LCA is bolted to . . . now realize that the forces are equal at both ends of the LCA. So from this you can conclude that all of the brackets are probably overbuilt. Most seem to be made of 3/16 steel; now you can buy a lot of 3/16 flat steel for the $100 that a set of brackets cost. I say pick up a four foot length of 3/16 steel at the hardware store for $4, cut it into four pieces, drill the holes and weld it in. Paint welds and brackets with POR15 and you are done. Then spend half of what you saved on the g/f, buy beer with the rest!

2w0s060

Thats good

However these days you have to work so much, or your job requires you to work all the time you just dont get time for that and hoe fabrications. Thats why there is the internet, we can sit at home beat and tired and still buy parts for are car to be here the next day