Relocation Brackets
Relocation Brackets HEy guys, is it true that when you lower a car...any car...that you have to uprgade the panhard bar and install relocation brackets to keep the car's alignment from going out of whack????? Any help guys??
Gabe
Gabe
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Mi./Al.
I would go with the adjustable panhard rod then decide wheather you need the relocation brackets or not, it seems like the M6's need it more then the A4's do. BTW, If you decide to get the relocation brackets go with the BMR bolt-on ones. JMO
Al
Al
I say go with some relocation brackets as well. I lowered my car and every since then I get wheel hop like crazy when I really get on it. It's very very annoying, especially when you're trying to run someone 
Not to mention it would seem to me like there's a very good chance you're going to break something eventually 
The BMR model looks like a nice product, they're the ones that I will be ordering shortly.
Not to mention it would seem to me like there's a very good chance you're going to break something eventually The BMR model looks like a nice product, they're the ones that I will be ordering shortly.
Originally Posted by z28smokin
I have the BMR bolt on relocation brackets and they are work great.
Gabe
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,780
Likes: 7
From: Mi./Al.
The weld-on and bolt-on work the same, if you don't mind having welding done on your car that might be the way to but I prefer the bolt-on type. You don't want the non-adjustable panhard rod, to center your wheels in the rear you want the adjustable panhard.
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I have weld in subframe connectors, but have bolt in relocation brackets. All of the bolt in relocation brackets were powder coated, but the weld in ones were not. You could always file some of the paint off the edge of the bolt in relocation bracket and have them weld it anyways. If you get the weld in and don't paint them, they'll rust.
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If you lower the car you WILL want relocation brackets. Whether bolt-on or weld-in is up to you. I'm still using the BMR bolt-on's and have been happy with them over the years. They're quite stout and they also pick up on the lower rear shock bolt, so there is no chance of mislocating them as is the case with weld-ins. If you're concerned about strength, then you can always weld the bolt-ins as well.
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Originally Posted by 1320_PERFORMANCE
Sold my weld ons to buy the bolt ons, alot higher quality and its thicker. did my relocation brackets and bmr t/a and wheel hop is gone, tire just 
or hooks.
Mark
or hooks.Mark
Take a look at what the front end of the LCA is bolted to . . . now realize that the forces are equal at both ends of the LCA. So from this you can conclude that all of the brackets are probably overbuilt. Most seem to be made of 3/16 steel; now you can buy a lot of 3/16 flat steel for the $100 that a set of brackets cost. I say pick up a four foot length of 3/16 steel at the hardware store for $4, cut it into four pieces, drill the holes and weld it in. Paint welds and brackets with POR15 and you are done. Then spend half of what you saved on the g/f, buy beer with the rest!
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Originally Posted by Cal
Take a look at what the front end of the LCA is bolted to . . . now realize that the forces are equal at both ends of the LCA. So from this you can conclude that all of the brackets are probably overbuilt. Most seem to be made of 3/16 steel; now you can buy a lot of 3/16 flat steel for the $100 that a set of brackets cost. I say pick up a four foot length of 3/16 steel at the hardware store for $4, cut it into four pieces, drill the holes and weld it in. Paint welds and brackets with POR15 and you are done. Then spend half of what you saved on the g/f, buy beer with the rest!
However these days you have to work so much, or your job requires you to work all the time you just dont get time for that and hoe fabrications. Thats why there is the internet, we can sit at home beat and tired and still buy parts for are car to be here the next day