Poly Bushing Question
Poly Bushing Question So Im only finding poly bushing sets for my 93 Z 28 from Pro Thane and Energy Suspension.... No problem with that, but the notes say I must reuse all metal parts... Are there any kits that have the polys with the sleeves already on them? Im not sure I can press out the old ones and maintain the shape & integrity of the metal sleeves... How are you guys going about this?
This is for the front upper and lower control arms...
Thank You!!
This is for the front upper and lower control arms...
Thank You!!
You do not want poly in these bushing locations. Look at Moog parts, and especially the problem solver front lower rearward special design:
http://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part...%20CAMARO&vin=
http://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part...%20CAMARO&vin=
Why do I not want poly bushings in these locations? I did the rear control arms with poly. Also did the front and rear sway bars end links and mounts with poly, as well as the torque arm mount. It rides very well and is a huge improvement over rubber.
This has been covered so many times here, try a search... Poly binds, and you do not want binding in areas which require movement/articulation like control arms. Others like sway bar end-links and D-bushings it's ok.
Poly/roto-joint would be a better choice if you don't want the Moog 1LE bushings, but they can be noisy... I went with the later.
Read...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...l#post16801970
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...l#post10179969
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...need-help.html
Poly/roto-joint would be a better choice if you don't want the Moog 1LE bushings, but they can be noisy... I went with the later.
Read...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...l#post16801970
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...l#post10179969
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...need-help.html
I spent a few hours disassembling everything today. The only hard part so far was getting the rusty nuts off the top of the struts!! Everything else went pretty smooth. Im thinking a shop can press out the 8 bushings and lower ball joints for hopefully a good price. I have a press, but its kind of small.... Rock Auto should have it all here by the 19th!!!
Just ordered all MOOG parts.
4 upper control arm bushings
2 lower control arm bushings front
2 lower control arm bushings rear (the problem solver type)
2 outer tie rods
2 upper ball joints
2 lower ball joints
Thanks for the help.
Just ordered all MOOG parts.
4 upper control arm bushings
2 lower control arm bushings front
2 lower control arm bushings rear (the problem solver type)
2 outer tie rods
2 upper ball joints
2 lower ball joints
Thanks for the help.
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: Durham, NC
Has anyone run this set up:
4 upper control arm bushings (Energy or Prothane)
2 lower control arm bushings front (Energy or Prothane)
2 lower control arm bushings rear (Moog problem solver)
I would think this should be ok since the 6 out of 8 bushing do not involve any articulation.
4 upper control arm bushings (Energy or Prothane)
2 lower control arm bushings front (Energy or Prothane)
2 lower control arm bushings rear (Moog problem solver)
I would think this should be ok since the 6 out of 8 bushing do not involve any articulation.
NP. Out of curiosity, how many miles on your car (these parts your replacing)?
I need to refresh all of mine on my SS except my rear LCAs, about 111k mi.
My RS needs them all except the front A-Arm bushings -- got those replaced under extended warranty.
About 106k mi.
I need to refresh all of mine on my SS except my rear LCAs, about 111k mi.
My RS needs them all except the front A-Arm bushings -- got those replaced under extended warranty.
About 106k mi.I spent a few hours disassembling everything today. The only hard part so far was getting the rusty nuts off the top of the struts!! Everything else went pretty smooth. Im thinking a shop can press out the 8 bushings and lower ball joints for hopefully a good price. I have a press, but its kind of small.... Rock Auto should have it all here by the 19th!!!
Just ordered all MOOG parts.
4 upper control arm bushings
2 lower control arm bushings front
2 lower control arm bushings rear (the problem solver type)
2 outer tie rods
2 upper ball joints
2 lower ball joints
Thanks for the help.
Just ordered all MOOG parts.
4 upper control arm bushings
2 lower control arm bushings front
2 lower control arm bushings rear (the problem solver type)
2 outer tie rods
2 upper ball joints
2 lower ball joints
Thanks for the help.
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[QUOTE=libertyforall1776;18429166]NP. Out of curiosity, how many miles on your car (these parts your replacing)?
150k on everything. The lower control arm rear bushings were torn on the top and bottom of the bushings, both sides. The front bushings on the lowers were somewhat distorted from working harder than they needed due to the torn rears. (from what it looks like anyway)... My thoughts on the rest of the parts, is may as well just do them with everything off and easily accessable.
I have a question on the upper control arm bushings.... They seem to be "loaded" where the control arm is bolted to the shock monting plate... and have what Id call a rebounding action to them. My question is, do I need to maintain that spacing and rebounding motion when I tighten it all up? or Do I just leave them loose until I intall the shock assembly as a whole? I guess Im also wondering if I should leave EVERYTHING loose (bushing wise) until its all set back down under the weight of the car????
150k on everything. The lower control arm rear bushings were torn on the top and bottom of the bushings, both sides. The front bushings on the lowers were somewhat distorted from working harder than they needed due to the torn rears. (from what it looks like anyway)... My thoughts on the rest of the parts, is may as well just do them with everything off and easily accessable.
I have a question on the upper control arm bushings.... They seem to be "loaded" where the control arm is bolted to the shock monting plate... and have what Id call a rebounding action to them. My question is, do I need to maintain that spacing and rebounding motion when I tighten it all up? or Do I just leave them loose until I intall the shock assembly as a whole? I guess Im also wondering if I should leave EVERYTHING loose (bushing wise) until its all set back down under the weight of the car????
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I got my shocks today so I had some time to get the spring mounted on the passenger side shock toninght after work....Good god that sucked!! That spring compressor makes me nervous whenever I use it.
Question: Is 4 threads showing at the top of the shock sifficient? I couldnt get it any tighter even with my 1/2" impact....
So its not necessary to have the weight of the car down on the tires before tightening up the bolts for the bushings? Just want to be 100% sure before I bring it into have it aligned next week.
I got my shocks today so I had some time to get the spring mounted on the passenger side shock toninght after work....Good god that sucked!! That spring compressor makes me nervous whenever I use it.
Question: Is 4 threads showing at the top of the shock sifficient? I couldnt get it any tighter even with my 1/2" impact....
I got my shocks today so I had some time to get the spring mounted on the passenger side shock toninght after work....Good god that sucked!! That spring compressor makes me nervous whenever I use it.
Question: Is 4 threads showing at the top of the shock sifficient? I couldnt get it any tighter even with my 1/2" impact....
can't answer how many threads showing question as I payed a shop to do everything on my front end as the price difference between doing it all myself and having them press out and press back in the bushings just wasn't worth the hassle. But you really shouldn't be tightening the top shock mount with an impact, use the spring compressors to make sure the spring is compressed far enough to not interfere and tighten the nut down properly, when you zap it with an impact the shaft of the shock just spins. Also remember you will need a front end alignment after getting it all back together.
Spring compressors are another reason I wouldn't do the front end, I got the skin of the palm of my hand pinched between those cheap crappy spring compressors from the parts stores once when I was doing lowering springs on my old honda and not interested in a repeat of that. honestly it was worth the $325 (vs. the $120 to just press out and in the new parts) to have them do it all.
The only suspension pieces I ever installed with the suspension loaded have been subframe connectors and strut tower brace. I never had a problem with anything doing it that way.
Did you have the springs compressed when tightening the shock nut? That's a must. And you need to hold the shaft from spinning when tightening the nut. If the nut is not all the way tightened down it will clunk around and be annoying. The mount must be fully against the shelf on the shock shaft.
Did you have the springs compressed when tightening the shock nut? That's a must. And you need to hold the shaft from spinning when tightening the nut. If the nut is not all the way tightened down it will clunk around and be annoying. The mount must be fully against the shelf on the shock shaft.
As long as the mount was sitting on that little shelf on the shaft, and the isolator is inside the mount, then the nut on top nice and tight, you're good. Sounds like you got it to me.
Not to sound too stupid here.....but the factory lower ball joints incorporate the boot within the ball joint itself. The Moog units have a separate boot. The boot goes on AFTER the joint has been pressed in the arm correct?