Which Founders PHB?
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On The Tree
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Which Founders PHB? I'm looking to help stiffen the handling in my WS6 by replacing the stock PHB. Founders has two different styles, and despite my best Googling, I can't seem to determine the difference between the two. Below are the two I'm looking at:
http://www.foundersperformance.com/1...poly-bushings/
and
http://www.foundersperformance.com/p...-Bushings.html
The obvious difference seems to be where you make adjustments, but what's the advantage of one over the other?
Thanks
http://www.foundersperformance.com/1...poly-bushings/
and
http://www.foundersperformance.com/p...-Bushings.html
The obvious difference seems to be where you make adjustments, but what's the advantage of one over the other?
Thanks
Both are on-car adjustable which is better than off-car adjustable, and both have the same bushing material. However the difference seems to come from the fine tuning of the adjustability itself. From reference to the pictures, the top one (cheaper one) is single adjustable while the bottom one (more expensive one) is adjustable on both sides, which doesn't make sense because it's going on a solid axle car...
Single adjustable IMO would be enough for most people, more than likely including you too. Basically what it does is center the rear axle in respect with the rear tires jutting out from the left or right side, thus making one tire stick out further than the other making it look goofy. Adjustability in the panhard bar fixes this. Keep in mind that this should only happen if you are on lowering springs.
The one that is adjustable on both sides would accomplish the same task as the single adjustable one... The more I think about this the more I believe the bottom one you listed is actually off-car adjustable, this is from looking at the pictures only, maybe the pictures don't resemble the actual product though. Need someone else to chime in here to back me up here if I'm right or wrong.
Running big tires on lowering springs also may have one tire rub against the car itself and an adjustable panhard bar can recenter the axle and help keep the tires the same width from the car rather than one closer to the frame of the car than the other.
Single adjustable IMO would be enough for most people, more than likely including you too. Basically what it does is center the rear axle in respect with the rear tires jutting out from the left or right side, thus making one tire stick out further than the other making it look goofy. Adjustability in the panhard bar fixes this. Keep in mind that this should only happen if you are on lowering springs.
The one that is adjustable on both sides would accomplish the same task as the single adjustable one... The more I think about this the more I believe the bottom one you listed is actually off-car adjustable, this is from looking at the pictures only, maybe the pictures don't resemble the actual product though. Need someone else to chime in here to back me up here if I'm right or wrong.
Running big tires on lowering springs also may have one tire rub against the car itself and an adjustable panhard bar can recenter the axle and help keep the tires the same width from the car rather than one closer to the frame of the car than the other.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2014
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Thanks for the response. I'm at stock height and plan to stay that way. I mainly want straight line performance but it's a street car overall, so I also want it to handle better in the turns as well although it's not my main focus. My purpose in replacing the PHB is as part of a gradual overhaul of the rear suspension. Looking at these two I'm having a hard time telling what one has to offer over the other.
I'd also look at this...
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=355
The roto-joint allows for greater articulation and along the x and y axis, so it provides maximum movement without bind with the rearend. This is a good feature to have if you ever mess with the pinion angle with an adjustable torque arm or just want the rearend to have the ability to rotate under the car without bind.
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=355
The roto-joint allows for greater articulation and along the x and y axis, so it provides maximum movement without bind with the rearend. This is a good feature to have if you ever mess with the pinion angle with an adjustable torque arm or just want the rearend to have the ability to rotate under the car without bind.
I went with the first one. Seems to be fine, though I keep mulling over whether a 3 piece poly joint would be better on the panhard than straight regular poly. Not sure if there is enough movement on the opposite axis to make a difference.
Eventually I want to get a watts link but this was a good way to get the axle centered up properly without breaking the bank until I do that.
Eventually I want to get a watts link but this was a good way to get the axle centered up properly without breaking the bank until I do that.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2014
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Thanks, everyone, for the responses. I don't plan on constantly fine tuning so I'll probably go with the lesser of the two. I still have the stock rims but may go to a wider tire in the future which may cause needed adjustments.
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Both of them are on car adjustable. The first one is slightly easier to adjust but the second one mentioned is stronger. If it's just a street car and your not going to autocross or road race with race tires the first one will be plenty strong for what your doing.
The panhard rod doesn't need to articulate like the lower control arms so they don't need those other bushings. If you change your pinion angle you can simply loosen the jam nuts and allow the bushing ends to re-center to the new pinion angle and then tighten them back up to adjust for the pinion angle change. Panhard rods are in tension and compression only.
The panhard rod doesn't need to articulate like the lower control arms so they don't need those other bushings. If you change your pinion angle you can simply loosen the jam nuts and allow the bushing ends to re-center to the new pinion angle and then tighten them back up to adjust for the pinion angle change. Panhard rods are in tension and compression only.
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On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2014
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Both of them are on car adjustable. The first one is slightly easier to adjust but the second one mentioned is stronger. If it's just a street car and your not going to autocross or road race with race tires the first one will be plenty strong for what your doing.
The panhard rod doesn't need to articulate like the lower control arms so they don't need those other bushings. If you change your pinion angle you can simply loosen the jam nuts and allow the bushing ends to re-center to the new pinion angle and then tighten them back up to adjust for the pinion angle change. Panhard rods are in tension and compression only.
The panhard rod doesn't need to articulate like the lower control arms so they don't need those other bushings. If you change your pinion angle you can simply loosen the jam nuts and allow the bushing ends to re-center to the new pinion angle and then tighten them back up to adjust for the pinion angle change. Panhard rods are in tension and compression only.
Straight from the source... thanks again!