1999nbmZ

I am looking to purchase the weld in style sub-frame connectors from Midwest, and I am wondering how people are treating the install on these. In a perfect world, I would like to put the car on a frame rack, and set it back to factory specs before welding in the connectors. I've recently realized that this may be WAY to costly to do. This car is essentially just for fun, and not going to be worth any major money ever in its life.

Are people just putting the car on jack stands and welding them up? Drive on lift, with the car still on suspension? I would love to be sure the car is more or less straight, but not sure how to do that myself.

FYI the car has 160k miles, 1995 t-top Camaro.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Jacks stands can get these cars all out of whack. Keep the weight on the suspension. So drive on ramps/lift or jack stands under the rear end.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Definitely keep the suspension loaded when you go to weld the subframe connectors in. If not you'll be stiffening the chassis while it's not "true"... Ideally a drive on lift would be best. If there's none available to you, use some blocks under the wheels or drive on ramps. If there's anything we can do to help, let us know!

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

PM sent

imma_stocker

iTrader: (19)

Yup, full weight of car should be on the suspension. Drive on lift is ideal for easier working space.

2MCHPWR

iTrader: (10)

do you need to lift the carpet when welding these on?

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

You shouldn't have to BUT taking extra precautions when welding is ALWAYS a good idea.

imma_stocker

iTrader: (19)

Easier to move carpet and plastic before its melted. Exterior plastics are fine, interior I would at least lift up and away.

Remember to disconnect the battery!

5550racing

What did it say? Can you send it to me too?

I haven't welded mine in yet. Everyone says the suspension should be loaded when you weld them but I'm tempted to support the chassis instead. When my car is up on stands, the doors seem to latch better and I kinda like it. I mean, these cars don't even sit right on level ground as it is; they tend to sit on the right rear a little. If care is taken to insure the floor you're working on is perfectly level, and you support the chassis an equal distance from the surface, and you weld in the connectors, what types of problems might it cause?

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

We do not recommend loading the suspension when installing SFC, the vehicle wasn't loaded when it was traveling down the assembly line. With EXTREME CAUTION the best game plan is to jack the vehicle up and place the jackstands under the SFC themselves letting the vehicle rest on them before attaching them.

We do it at the shop on a four post lift.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

A simple door adjustment would fix that. My car was the opposite, the doors don't shut right when the suspension is unloaded. So keeping the suspension loaded was a no brainer for me.