What brakes to go with
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Guy's, I have a 2000 ws6 with 500hp, I want to put new rotors and disk all around the car, I don't want to spend alot. I was looking at the ones at Summit for like $480 the red calipers all 4 wheels, What do you guy's think about the cheap ones compared to the Wilwoods or Bears. Thanks
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I believe those are the Centric, or Stop Tech remanned PBR calipers, which are then powder coated red.
As long as you pick a good pad, those will be fine for the street, or stopping at the end of a 125 mph 1/4 mile trip.
The Wilwoods and above are necessary for extended road course use (along with cooling ducts/hoses and racing pads) only.
As long as you pick a good pad, those will be fine for the street, or stopping at the end of a 125 mph 1/4 mile trip.
The Wilwoods and above are necessary for extended road course use (along with cooling ducts/hoses and racing pads) only.
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I believe those are the Centric, or Stop Tech remanned PBR calipers, which are then powder coated red.
As long as you pick a good pad, those will be fine for the street, or stopping at the end of a 125 mph 1/4 mile trip.
The Wilwoods and above are necessary for extended road course use (along with cooling ducts/hoses and racing pads) only.![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
As long as you pick a good pad, those will be fine for the street, or stopping at the end of a 125 mph 1/4 mile trip.
The Wilwoods and above are necessary for extended road course use (along with cooling ducts/hoses and racing pads) only.
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Another one for quality pads in stock hardware. Fbody brakes aren't bad at all for the size of the car, especially with the vented rear rotor. $480 isn't too bad for new powder coated hardware. Pick up some quality blank rotors and some good street/strip pads and you'll be fine. Throw on some stainless braided lines if you want that firm pedal.
A fixed caliper BBK isn't necessary unless you're road racing the car. As long as your stock brakes can engage ABS, you won't lessen your braking distance with the BBK. Their benefit comes on the 15th hard stop when everything is running hot and the stock brakes would've given up and faded 2 laps ago...the BBK will stop like it's the first time.
Also, the best mod you can do for your brakes is sticky tires.
A fixed caliper BBK isn't necessary unless you're road racing the car. As long as your stock brakes can engage ABS, you won't lessen your braking distance with the BBK. Their benefit comes on the 15th hard stop when everything is running hot and the stock brakes would've given up and faded 2 laps ago...the BBK will stop like it's the first time.
Also, the best mod you can do for your brakes is sticky tires.
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I always buy these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Rear-D...dW~Vzl&vxp=mtr
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I always buy these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Rear-D...dW~Vzl&vxp=mtr
Everyone that I've seen on this forum who have run Brakemotive say that they work and are of good quality. I haven't heard anything bad of them yet. Might have to ****** up a set myself because that's a sweet price and the brake pulsating is getting old...
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Guys, I buy these for all my cars, even my durnago and corolla. They kick ***, especially for the price. My theory is, why buy **** at advanced or autozone that sucks, when you can get these from brakemotive for roughly the same price! I drive my durango like a race car; never had any fade with em. Same for the camaro; never had any fade. On the corolla I did experience some fade upon multiple high speed, very agressive stops (testing them), as in slammin on em at 120+ 3 times. But I think I only got fade on the corolla because the components of that car are not large enough to handle that kind of abuse, as in heat dispertion capabilities. I.E. the brakes arent big enough. Not saying these breaks are on par with brembo or wilwood or anything, but for the price you'd be crazy to buy the autopart store stuff. The only complaint I have is that after months of agressive use, the slots and holes start to fill with some pad material, but it's easy to scrape out with a screwdriver; still kinda annoying though. You know the pads are just average run of the mill ceramic, so on my future installments I'm going to try some better hawk pads or something as an upgrade, see how they perform. Anyways, I highly reccomend them. It's all I have been buying for my cars for years now since I discovered them. I wouldn't trust any other "unbrand" brakes on ebay. I liked that their ads always seem very professional, they have great feedback, they sell ONLY brakes, and they have a pretty convincing youtube video about their process. I wouldn't trust the others, and I have already been the guinea pig for several years for this brand and I don't buy anything else now. Highly recommended!
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You're exactly right. People always underestimate it because it says "Corolla", lol. That's why I love it! A true sleeper. With just bolt on's and a tune they can grab high 13's with dr's, or low 14's on street tires. They're slow off the line spinning ONE 195mm tire, but once you hit lift it hauls. Ours (video) just has a short ram intake and no muffler, that's it. I really wanna build it, but I can't justify the money to make it run 14's, when the same money makes the Camaro run 12's, lol. One day though, hopefully before it has 300k lol. Currently sits at 216k.
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I've bought the brake motive stuff and also the kit with calipers from summit (I think I bought mine from rockauto), the pads I received were the same brand and the rotors appeared to be the same as well. For a car primarily driven on the street I don't think they can be beat dollar for dollar.
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I noticed that the rotors linked on that ebay link are drilled and slotted....I once put some on that were drilled and slotted and they sounded horrible on the street....almost like salt and pepper shakers driving down the street....are these particular ones quiet? and how is the break dust?
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I noticed that the rotors linked on that ebay link are drilled and slotted....I once put some on that were drilled and slotted and they sounded horrible on the street....almost like salt and pepper shakers driving down the street....are these particular ones quiet? and how is the break dust?
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If the two cars were setup exactly the same, meaning same tire, same suspension, same brake pads and rotors, then you have a more direct comparison between the two and then you can say whatever brake setup performed better.
For example, some guys that I know of are able to engage the ABS with factory LS1 brakes on massive width r-compunds. If they were to get a 6 piston BAER setup in place of the LS1 brakes, they are not going to stop any sooner on those brakes vs. the stock LS1 brakes simply because they are able to overcome the adhesion limit of the tires already.
Now if they were repeatedly stopping hard time after time, the 6 pot setup would be better because of the greater surface area of the rotor and pad contact area for the heat to dissipate vs having a smaller more concentrated area of heat buildup on the pads/rotors and then you'll overheat the pads quicker on a smaller setup. However most of us aren't tracking our cars at race courses. Therefore I believe LS1 brakes are perfectly adequate for the purpose of stopping an F-body on the street or small local events.
...just my 2¢...
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There is a lot more that goes into braking than just the brakes themselves, tires being one of the biggest factors. Saying that your 2 pot setup outperformed a 6 pot setup is in a sense true, because it did to you. Factor in all the other components that lead to better braking performance and there's so many variables that go into play that the comparison is irrelevant.
If the two cars were setup exactly the same, meaning same tire, same suspension, same brake pads and rotors, then you have a more direct comparison between the two and then you can say whatever brake setup performed better.
For example, some guys that I know of are able to engage the ABS with factory LS1 brakes on massive width r-compunds. If they were to get a 6 piston BAER setup in place of the LS1 brakes, they are not going to stop any sooner on those brakes vs. the stock LS1 brakes simply because they are able to overcome the adhesion limit of the tires already.
Now if they were repeatedly stopping hard time after time, the 6 pot setup would be better because of the greater surface area of the rotor and pad contact area for the heat to dissipate vs having a smaller more concentrated area of heat buildup on the pads/rotors and then you'll overheat the pads quicker on a smaller setup. However most of us aren't tracking our cars at race courses. Therefore I believe LS1 brakes are perfectly adequate for the purpose of stopping an F-body on the street or small local events.
...just my 2¢...
If the two cars were setup exactly the same, meaning same tire, same suspension, same brake pads and rotors, then you have a more direct comparison between the two and then you can say whatever brake setup performed better.
For example, some guys that I know of are able to engage the ABS with factory LS1 brakes on massive width r-compunds. If they were to get a 6 piston BAER setup in place of the LS1 brakes, they are not going to stop any sooner on those brakes vs. the stock LS1 brakes simply because they are able to overcome the adhesion limit of the tires already.
Now if they were repeatedly stopping hard time after time, the 6 pot setup would be better because of the greater surface area of the rotor and pad contact area for the heat to dissipate vs having a smaller more concentrated area of heat buildup on the pads/rotors and then you'll overheat the pads quicker on a smaller setup. However most of us aren't tracking our cars at race courses. Therefore I believe LS1 brakes are perfectly adequate for the purpose of stopping an F-body on the street or small local events.
...just my 2¢...