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Old 08-01-2016, 08:28 PM
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I'm trying to get my car to launch a little smoother and transfer weight most efficiently. As of right now I've got stock deCarbon shocks front and back and stock Springs and stock sway bars with the front still on. I've got after market Panhard, lcas, tq arm and relocation mount, and sfc. It is a 6 speed and I'm launching it around 5300 rpm. I'm still getting some wheel spin about 20-30ft out.

Would I benefit more from front shocks and Springs or rears and which ones? I've got my eye on the Viking DAS but which springs do I need? Also I don't think I need an anti roll bar since I'm only running high 10s but I do want an upgraded piece but what's the difference over the hollow vs solid sway bars besides weight? The car is ~3450lb and makes around 600 to the tire if that info helps. Thanks in advance! Here is a photo of this past weekends race with me about 2ft off the line.
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Old 08-02-2016, 07:43 AM
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I'm going to assume the car hooks everywhere up to 20-30Ft? If this is the case it sounds like you need more rebound force in the rear shocks.
One of the advantages of going the coil-over route other than being able to adjust the ride height is the ability to change spring rates to fine tune the car as you make changes.

You didn't mention anything about having LCA relocation brackets,they give you the ability to optimize your vehicle's instant center which will be a huge benefit.

Other than the added weigth of solid sway bars like you mentioned,another downfall is the effect it has on your cars un-sprung mass. Technology has come a long way in making hollow sway bars stronger which make them the way to go if your looking to upgrade performance.

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Old 08-03-2016, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by SoonerBrad88
I'm trying to get my car to launch a little smoother and transfer weight most efficiently. As of right now I've got stock deCarbon shocks front and back and stock Springs and stock sway bars with the front still on. I've got after market Panhard, lcas, tq arm and relocation mount, and sfc. It is a 6 speed and I'm launching it around 5300 rpm. I'm still getting some wheel spin about 20-30ft out.

Would I benefit more from front shocks and Springs or rears and which ones? I've got my eye on the Viking DAS but which springs do I need? Also I don't think I need an anti roll bar since I'm only running high 10s but I do want an upgraded piece but what's the difference over the hollow vs solid sway bars besides weight? The car is ~3450lb and makes around 600 to the tire if that info helps. Thanks in advance! Here is a photo of this past weekends race with me about 2ft off the line.

You would definitely be better off with a full set of full adjustable shocks on your car. The clutch makes for a small window to get the car to launch consistent and apply good power to the ground.

The Viking shocks will be a great choice, but there are others out there in a close price range that may suit you better. Best thing to do is give us a call and we would be happy to go over your car and set you up with the right shocks, correct spring rates, and appropriate mount combination for your particular needs. MWC has the best prices and packages available to get your performance up to your expectations and get you down the track with our expert tech help.
Old 08-03-2016, 11:44 AM
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Just to go ahead and here,

But yes a 6 speed car I would definitely recommend a double adjustable shock, and with the car unloading 20-30 feet out it sounds like you need more rebound control. Geometry plays a large factor in this as well. I like to work on that first then fine tune it in with shock adjustment. But it is all a balance. You can't go wrong with the Viking pieces. Price, quality, adjustability all will fit your needs. 150 is middle of the road general purpose rate for the rear. 125's will be good on a light track car, or 175 for a more handling oriented street car. But, don't think you are locked in to the original rate. They are cheap and easy to change later if so needed
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Old 08-03-2016, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by UMI Sales
You didn't mention anything about having LCA relocation brackets,they give you the ability to optimize your vehicle's instant center which will be a huge benefit.
Craig
Yes the car does have LCA relocation brackets and they are mounted in the lowest hole setting.
Old 08-03-2016, 06:15 PM
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Are you running DR's? If so, have you thought about also switching to a bias ply set up? Another thing to consider is your launch technique. If you are doing the bog-then-spin thing, you might benefit from a more aggressive launch. I seem to get better 60's in my stick car when I get a little wheel spin right out of the hole.
Old 08-04-2016, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by gesto
Are you running DR's? If so, have you thought about also switching to a bias ply set up? Another thing to consider is your launch technique. If you are doing the bog-then-spin thing, you might benefit from a more aggressive launch. I seem to get better 60's in my stick car when I get a little wheel spin right out of the hole.
I'm running a Hoosier slick. When I'm launching at 5.5k it spins pretty considerably but still keeps a good momentum. I would ideally like to get it to dead hook without dropping any rpms. This last outing at the track I was running 15psi in my tires so next time I'm going to play with tire pressure a little more. So far my best passes have been launching around 6k with the tires @ 12psi but that was slipping the clutch, I've got a 2 step now.
Old 08-04-2016, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by SoonerBrad88
I'm running a Hoosier slick. When I'm launching at 5.5k it spins pretty considerably but still keeps a good momentum. I would ideally like to get it to dead hook without dropping any rpms. This last outing at the track I was running 15psi in my tires so next time I'm going to play with tire pressure a little more. So far my best passes have been launching around 6k with the tires @ 12psi but that was slipping the clutch, I've got a 2 step now.
Honestly, most manual trans/bias ply tire cars benefit from slightly spinning versus dead hooking. Not only is it easier on the drivetrain, but it reduces shock and sudden weight shift changes.It also help keep wheel speed up prevents bogging and extra stress on clutch and drivetrain components.
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Old 08-04-2016, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by BMR Sales2
Honestly, most manual trans/bias ply tire cars benefit from slightly spinning versus dead hooking. Not only is it easier on the drivetrain, but it reduces shock and sudden weight shift changes.It also help keep wheel speed up prevents bogging and extra stress on clutch and drivetrain components.
What would an ideal amount of wheel spin be as far as how far out? Would it help my 60' to take the front sway bar off?
Old 08-04-2016, 04:09 PM
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We're talking just a few feet out. Like 10' or so. Removing the front sway bar will help with 60' mostly from allowing the front suspension to rebound more freely and also the removal of weight from the front of the car
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Old 08-05-2016, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by SoonerBrad88
What would an ideal amount of wheel spin be as far as how far out? Would it help my 60' to take the front sway bar off?
An ideal amount of wheel speed is dependent on several things... Engine torque(camshaft range), power adder ramp rates, track temps, tire pressure, tire condition, etc.

You can just as easily have too much bite and cause the car to go into tire shake if you don't have enough wheel speed. You definitely do not want to dead hook a manual trans car as engine bog will slow acceleration much worse than a bit of spin.

A few things that will help you right away is 1) using a two step rev limiter for consistent and adjustable launch rpm. 2) You must stay on fresh tires. The sidewall of your slicks will go away well before the tread will and that has a huge affect on how the car performs. The clutch is extremely hard on the entire driveline right down to the tires so you need to have good equipment if you want good performance. 3) Keep data logs. Get a run log book and either do manual entry of things like track temps, tire pressures, launch rpms, etc.

Keeping a good amount of data from every run will speed up the process of finding what your car likes and don't like.
Old 08-05-2016, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ssvert99
2) You must stay on fresh tires. The sidewall of your slicks will go away well before the tread will and that has a huge affect on how the car performs. The clutch is extremely hard on the entire driveline right down to the tires so you need to have good equipment if you want good performance. 3) Keep data logs. Get a run log book and either do manual entry of things like track temps, tire pressures, launch rpms, etc.

Keeping a good amount of data from every run will speed up the process of finding what your car likes and don't like.
Well my slicks are probably getting towards the end of they're life span. The rubber is starting to get low and so the sidewalls are probably already gone if that's the case.
And that's a good idea to keep a log book, never thought of that. I've always just done it off of memory.



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