SS#1531

iTrader: (4)

I've installed a Fays2 watts link and on initial set-up I had the bars parallel to the ground and the propeller top bolt between the 12-1 position. However, I've since moved the propeller down two holes, which leaves the propeller vertical and during suspension motion, especially under braking, the top propeller bolt will move to the 11-12 position. Is this ok, or should I extend my bars or move my brackets inward to get more propeller angle?

WarShrike

iTrader: (5)

I loosened my brackets a little and moved them to where the bars were back to parallel, then turned the center portion of the bars until the prop is back to the right position.

Currently running mine on the middle setting w/ Strano springs/bars and konis.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Did you guys notice a considerable difference going to the Watts link?

SS#1531

iTrader: (4)

I just installed mine and have only driven it on the street. I've definitely noticed a difference. The rear seems more stable and consistent. You can also make finer handling adjustments than you can with just an adjustable sway bar. The true test will be at my next autocross next month. I can dial it in better there and I expect a better result.

I'd say the difference is noticeable, but probably not worth the money for just street use. I expect it too be worth it though for autocross.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Here's the thing... when you did that initial setup, the propeller needed to be in the middle hole when you leveled the arms. From there you can move up and down without any goofing with the arms again. But if you did the leveling with the RC all the way up, at some point as you move down you will run into an issue, moreso nearer the bottom.

SS#1531

iTrader: (4)

Being lowered there was no way the bars were going to be level at the middle hole, so I set it up two holes up, which the directions said you can do. I just felt like the first time I didn't put in enough propeller angle, so I readjusted it. I think it's good now.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Why not? I do it all the time. The clamps pivot, you can level the arms at any position. And frankly the instructions sometimes make things more complicated than necessary.

Anyway, I'm not sure what the worry is, sounds like there isn't a problem at this point, and was simply telling you that when the arms are leveled at a high setting you can get to a bind at a low setting without readjusting the arms. But if you set stuff up in the middle to start you need never touch the arm angle based on a RC change.

SS#1531

iTrader: (4)

Good to know. The directions don't really give the option to move the arms up or down much. They want the drivers side straight out. I wasn't sure if I could. I'm currently only one hole lower than where I leveled it. But that might change after my first autocross with it.

scj

iTrader: (89)

On a different note, am i the only one who hates the axle clamps? Why couldn't the nuts or bolts be welded to the clamp so setting them up wouldn't be a balancing act with two hands, a wrench, a ratchet and trying to keep the clamp from moving.

SS#1531

iTrader: (4)

Yeah that can be a pain when you don't have a helper. The key is to tighten the bolts just enough that the clamps stay where they are but you can still move them with a tap of a rubber mallet into its final position.