BFK86

iTrader: (1)

I'd like to know what your guys opinions are on what is necessary and what is a waste of money/time. I have an automatic 02 formula, as of now it just has basic bolt ons (headers, exhaust, lid, tune) I have a founders adjustible panhard bar and relocation kit on it to clear exhaust better and center the rear end for 11" rears. Id like to eventually do heads, cam and a converter and would like the car to be able to crack into the 11s. I've seen some guys with minimal suspension mods run in the 11s and other guys swear by needing an adjustible torque arm, adjustible lower control arms, sway bars (i know not necessary for the drag strip) and pretty much buy the entire BMR catalog. I plan on adding sub frame connectors, but aside from that what is really necessary, and what can i do without..car is standard height now, may lower it a touch but not slammed. Thanks.

pic of the car in case anyones curious

Majestic9C1

iTrader: (19)

lower control arm relocation brackets and lower control arms and a torque arm will get you started

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

Shocks and shocks!

Crf450r420

iTrader: (1)

Since every car is a little different your best bet is to have a buddy record your launches, so other can see what the car is doing that can be improved. This would be the best way to buy what is needed and not just follow the path of usual parts. That being said, stock shocks are only better than dirt pile ones at the local auto part store and would be a great place to start.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Adjustable lower control arms, lower control arm relocation brackets. After those two I never experienced wheel hop again.

I wouldn't mess around with an adjustable torque arm. It can be very precise when it comes to pinion angle and can take alot of adjusting

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

The single most important part of any suspension package is going to the shocks then I would do control arms and panhard bar and also control arm relocation brackets.

2ToeRacing

iTrader: (5)

I have a question on this and it might clear up a few things for me and others. When you do lower control arm do you STILL need the relocation brackets? If so why?

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

Aftermarket lower control arms are more rigid than the OEM lower control arms and typically have better bushings(poly) than the rubber OEM bushings. BUT that has nothing to do with the LCA relocation aspect. Relocation changes their working angle to enhance traction.
-shocks and LCA relos to start
-next would be aftermarket LCAs'

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

There is a couple benefits to using them one help get the proper control arm angle and two it will help eliminate wheel hop but both are really relative to the ride height of the car.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

^ This. I cannot stress this enough. There are so many variables to consider when setting up a suspension that it is impossible to predict what a car will do and what is needed to correct it. Some get away with some simple mods due to luck and a balance of components working together. Most cars need some help when they start making more than stock power, or especially if they have been lowered. The best thing to do would be to do as suggested above and have someone film the car launching so everything can be analyzed and determine what the best parts would be for you. It is really difficult to get feedback from the driver's seat or even someone just watching as it all happens so fast that what you think is an issue or what is causing it, can actually be the complete opposite

They do 2 separate jobs. The control arm just stiffens up the connection between the axle and the chassis. The relocation bracket actually changes the angle of the arm to make changes to your instant center geometry. This is what actually makes the whole suspension work. The relation of the torque arm mounting position and the control arm angle controls how hard the car hits the tire, if it squats or separates. These are essential in correcting geomtery in a lowered car, but also help in a stock height car

BFK86

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input, I forgot to mention shocks are definitely one of the next orders of business since they are the original garbage with 69k miles on them. As of now I don't think having someone film me launching is going to get me anywhere until I'm making enough power to cause traction issues, BUT I would like to do a few things prior to building the engine at all..so it sound like LCAs and relocaction brackets are a good starting point with good shocks.

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

Your welcome if you have any question please feel free to call us or pm me on here. I can also get you taken care of on all of the suspension pieces you are looking for.

BFK86

iTrader: (1)

Do you guys have any suggestions on a good street/strip shock?

UMI Tech

A good budget street/STRIP shock is the Viking Warrior.

For a more aggressive approach you can upgrade to various Crusader valvings as well. It really depends on how fast you want to go eventually...

At UMI we can spec the correct damper based on your goals.

ramey

2ToeRacing

iTrader: (5)

Do you sell the Viking shocks WITH the crusader valving??? The crusader series shocks is more for road racing/street?

UMI Tech

https://umiperformanceinc.wordpress....o-info-part-2/

Viking has Crusader for road racing, auto-x, drag racing with various hp levels, street rod, etc.

We carry the full line and can custom order any of the valve codes.

The Crusaders tend to add $75 per shock.

I've attached the damping curves for your enjoyment. If you call we can explain what they do and how they differ from the Warrior valving.

ramey