a Kmember thread.
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From: NY,CT & MA
a Kmember thread. which one do you run?
BMR, PA ??
why is BMR so much more $$ compared to the otherone?
and real differences?
disadvantages??
what do you not like about yours?
BMR, PA ??
why is BMR so much more $$ compared to the otherone?
and real differences?
disadvantages??
what do you not like about yours?
I'm still waiting for my BMR from the GP to come in.
I picked them because they were the only ones who
seemed to encourage street use instead of disclaim
it (though after I ordered I saw more encouraging
words from another vendor, cheaper... figures).
Had a few people tell me they were doing OK with
street driven BRM K's and nobody bitching.
I liked having the integral motor mount pedestals
though the pictures made them look a little spindly.
Will see when it shows up. I will be using Prothane
poly mounts to hook up.
[edit] - Came in today. The piece looks nicely made,
clean, good looking weldment. The main construction
is 1.5" tubing, mount pedestals are the same w/ the
saddles being 3/16" bent flat stock, triangulated w/ a
1/2" tube (the "spindly" thing I saw in the pix). Those
aren't going anywhere. The whole thing is 26# by the
bathroom scale. The two sides look to be within a
degree or two of dead-parallel, which is pretty good
for a big weldment. My only beef: $374 and didn't get
a stinkin' BMR sticker!
As to justifying price... I'll let you know in 10,000
miles or so. Heh.
I picked them because they were the only ones who
seemed to encourage street use instead of disclaim
it (though after I ordered I saw more encouraging
words from another vendor, cheaper... figures).
Had a few people tell me they were doing OK with
street driven BRM K's and nobody bitching.
I liked having the integral motor mount pedestals
though the pictures made them look a little spindly.
Will see when it shows up. I will be using Prothane
poly mounts to hook up.
[edit] - Came in today. The piece looks nicely made,
clean, good looking weldment. The main construction
is 1.5" tubing, mount pedestals are the same w/ the
saddles being 3/16" bent flat stock, triangulated w/ a
1/2" tube (the "spindly" thing I saw in the pix). Those
aren't going anywhere. The whole thing is 26# by the
bathroom scale. The two sides look to be within a
degree or two of dead-parallel, which is pretty good
for a big weldment. My only beef: $374 and didn't get
a stinkin' BMR sticker!
As to justifying price... I'll let you know in 10,000
miles or so. Heh.
Last edited by jimmyblue; Jul 2, 2004 at 02:13 PM.
I bought the bmr piece. no fitment issues but my car is still not running so I can't really say how reliable it is. However it does look beefier than some of the other vendors, plus it came with the motor mounts built in. I was going to get the PA one because the cro-moly was said to be lighter but theirs didnt come with motormounts.
Holy batman!!! Bringing a thread from the dead! I've searched and haven't found an all inclusive thread about kmembers.
Keep this going. I'm looking into the UMI, BMR, PA Racing and AJE Racing kmembers.
What do you have? Why did you choose it? Any pros/cons to each one?
Keep this going. I'm looking into the UMI, BMR, PA Racing and AJE Racing kmembers.
What do you have? Why did you choose it? Any pros/cons to each one?
Yeah boy, night of the living dead. Since this
thread last saw daylight, I've broken and fixed
that K-member (BMR has since fixed the design;
I like my fix better although it's shade tree ugly).
Moral of that story is, best be sure that you
really care about that last 2 pounds more than
toughness. Or at least compromise with your
eyes wide open. Probably any of the weldments
can take the "abuse of drag racing" for a while.
But like rust, metal fatigue never sleeps. So be
sure you get plenty of metal where it counts.
And be sure you really want to give your daily
driver a glass chin in the name of a tenth (I did
not see anything significant from the 30 pounds
weight reduction, which is sub-% in the big
picture).
Everybody says they're tough but nobody warrants
diddly. That ought to tell you all you really need
to know. Unless you're going to trailer it to & from.
thread last saw daylight, I've broken and fixed
that K-member (BMR has since fixed the design;
I like my fix better although it's shade tree ugly).
Moral of that story is, best be sure that you
really care about that last 2 pounds more than
toughness. Or at least compromise with your
eyes wide open. Probably any of the weldments
can take the "abuse of drag racing" for a while.
But like rust, metal fatigue never sleeps. So be
sure you get plenty of metal where it counts.
And be sure you really want to give your daily
driver a glass chin in the name of a tenth (I did
not see anything significant from the 30 pounds
weight reduction, which is sub-% in the big
picture).
Everybody says they're tough but nobody warrants
diddly. That ought to tell you all you really need
to know. Unless you're going to trailer it to & from.
Well it will be a street car that I drag race, or a drag car that I drive on the street haha. I'm just gathering a grand plan for the car and this was one of the things that has come up- front suspension/weight savings.
I am still pondering the whole weight versus safety thing. Being a "street/strip" car, it will see street time. I will trailer it to the track mainly because of two things: 1. I want to run real light drag wheels that will get bent on the road and 2. In case I break something.
So I'm not sure where to draw the line on the weight savings for a street/strip car. I will be losing A/C, ABS, airbags, misc stuff.....so how does the kmember get put into the mix?
Does the cost difference between the four manufacturers I stated mainly add cost for extra gusseting? It seems so. Cheaper ones offer less metal which in return offers less rigidity/strength.
I'm kinda confused haha
I am still pondering the whole weight versus safety thing. Being a "street/strip" car, it will see street time. I will trailer it to the track mainly because of two things: 1. I want to run real light drag wheels that will get bent on the road and 2. In case I break something.
So I'm not sure where to draw the line on the weight savings for a street/strip car. I will be losing A/C, ABS, airbags, misc stuff.....so how does the kmember get put into the mix?
Does the cost difference between the four manufacturers I stated mainly add cost for extra gusseting? It seems so. Cheaper ones offer less metal which in return offers less rigidity/strength.
I'm kinda confused haha
Trending Topics
I have a PA K member and when I get a extra $450 I'll probly swap for the UMI. After removing the stocker and seeing how beefy it compaired to the PA I am always alittle worried blasting through turns. My car is 95% for the street and I now have 275's up front. The UMI looks alot stronger than mine. I didn't really do the K member for weight reduction I mainly did it for working on the car. It has made it so much nicer to get access underneath the car. By the way I did my K member back in 2004 so the design has gotten better.
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K-Member Suggestions! Hello
I see that you are asking about a K Member. And I just wanted to throw this out there for you for a suggestion. That we offer 2 different versions we have a regular aftermarket replacement member and UMI Performance is the only company to offer a Road Race version. Below is a link to show you what we have to offer.
http://umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=122
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
I see that you are asking about a K Member. And I just wanted to throw this out there for you for a suggestion. That we offer 2 different versions we have a regular aftermarket replacement member and UMI Performance is the only company to offer a Road Race version. Below is a link to show you what we have to offer.
http://umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=122
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be glad to help!
Thanks
Brad