a Kmember thread.
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: NY,CT & MA
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a Kmember thread.
which one do you run?
BMR, PA ??
why is BMR so much more $$ compared to the otherone?
and real differences?
disadvantages??
what do you not like about yours?
BMR, PA ??
why is BMR so much more $$ compared to the otherone?
and real differences?
disadvantages??
what do you not like about yours?
#3
Moderator
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: East Central Florida
Posts: 12,604
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I'm still waiting for my BMR from the GP to come in.
I picked them because they were the only ones who
seemed to encourage street use instead of disclaim
it (though after I ordered I saw more encouraging
words from another vendor, cheaper... figures).
Had a few people tell me they were doing OK with
street driven BRM K's and nobody bitching.
I liked having the integral motor mount pedestals
though the pictures made them look a little spindly.
Will see when it shows up. I will be using Prothane
poly mounts to hook up.
[edit] - Came in today. The piece looks nicely made,
clean, good looking weldment. The main construction
is 1.5" tubing, mount pedestals are the same w/ the
saddles being 3/16" bent flat stock, triangulated w/ a
1/2" tube (the "spindly" thing I saw in the pix). Those
aren't going anywhere. The whole thing is 26# by the
bathroom scale. The two sides look to be within a
degree or two of dead-parallel, which is pretty good
for a big weldment. My only beef: $374 and didn't get
a stinkin' BMR sticker!
As to justifying price... I'll let you know in 10,000
miles or so. Heh.
I picked them because they were the only ones who
seemed to encourage street use instead of disclaim
it (though after I ordered I saw more encouraging
words from another vendor, cheaper... figures).
Had a few people tell me they were doing OK with
street driven BRM K's and nobody bitching.
I liked having the integral motor mount pedestals
though the pictures made them look a little spindly.
Will see when it shows up. I will be using Prothane
poly mounts to hook up.
[edit] - Came in today. The piece looks nicely made,
clean, good looking weldment. The main construction
is 1.5" tubing, mount pedestals are the same w/ the
saddles being 3/16" bent flat stock, triangulated w/ a
1/2" tube (the "spindly" thing I saw in the pix). Those
aren't going anywhere. The whole thing is 26# by the
bathroom scale. The two sides look to be within a
degree or two of dead-parallel, which is pretty good
for a big weldment. My only beef: $374 and didn't get
a stinkin' BMR sticker!
As to justifying price... I'll let you know in 10,000
miles or so. Heh.
Last edited by jimmyblue; 07-02-2004 at 02:13 PM.
#4
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (34)
I bought the bmr piece. no fitment issues but my car is still not running so I can't really say how reliable it is. However it does look beefier than some of the other vendors, plus it came with the motor mounts built in. I was going to get the PA one because the cro-moly was said to be lighter but theirs didnt come with motormounts.
#6
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iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Mar 2002
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Yeah boy, night of the living dead. Since this
thread last saw daylight, I've broken and fixed
that K-member (BMR has since fixed the design;
I like my fix better although it's shade tree ugly).
Moral of that story is, best be sure that you
really care about that last 2 pounds more than
toughness. Or at least compromise with your
eyes wide open. Probably any of the weldments
can take the "abuse of drag racing" for a while.
But like rust, metal fatigue never sleeps. So be
sure you get plenty of metal where it counts.
And be sure you really want to give your daily
driver a glass chin in the name of a tenth (I did
not see anything significant from the 30 pounds
weight reduction, which is sub-% in the big
picture).
Everybody says they're tough but nobody warrants
diddly. That ought to tell you all you really need
to know. Unless you're going to trailer it to & from.
thread last saw daylight, I've broken and fixed
that K-member (BMR has since fixed the design;
I like my fix better although it's shade tree ugly).
Moral of that story is, best be sure that you
really care about that last 2 pounds more than
toughness. Or at least compromise with your
eyes wide open. Probably any of the weldments
can take the "abuse of drag racing" for a while.
But like rust, metal fatigue never sleeps. So be
sure you get plenty of metal where it counts.
And be sure you really want to give your daily
driver a glass chin in the name of a tenth (I did
not see anything significant from the 30 pounds
weight reduction, which is sub-% in the big
picture).
Everybody says they're tough but nobody warrants
diddly. That ought to tell you all you really need
to know. Unless you're going to trailer it to & from.
#7
TECH Addict
iTrader: (53)
Well it will be a street car that I drag race, or a drag car that I drive on the street haha. I'm just gathering a grand plan for the car and this was one of the things that has come up- front suspension/weight savings.
I am still pondering the whole weight versus safety thing. Being a "street/strip" car, it will see street time. I will trailer it to the track mainly because of two things: 1. I want to run real light drag wheels that will get bent on the road and 2. In case I break something.
So I'm not sure where to draw the line on the weight savings for a street/strip car. I will be losing A/C, ABS, airbags, misc stuff.....so how does the kmember get put into the mix?
Does the cost difference between the four manufacturers I stated mainly add cost for extra gusseting? It seems so. Cheaper ones offer less metal which in return offers less rigidity/strength.
I'm kinda confused haha
I am still pondering the whole weight versus safety thing. Being a "street/strip" car, it will see street time. I will trailer it to the track mainly because of two things: 1. I want to run real light drag wheels that will get bent on the road and 2. In case I break something.
So I'm not sure where to draw the line on the weight savings for a street/strip car. I will be losing A/C, ABS, airbags, misc stuff.....so how does the kmember get put into the mix?
Does the cost difference between the four manufacturers I stated mainly add cost for extra gusseting? It seems so. Cheaper ones offer less metal which in return offers less rigidity/strength.
I'm kinda confused haha
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#8
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
I have a PA K member and when I get a extra $450 I'll probly swap for the UMI. After removing the stocker and seeing how beefy it compaired to the PA I am always alittle worried blasting through turns. My car is 95% for the street and I now have 275's up front. The UMI looks alot stronger than mine. I didn't really do the K member for weight reduction I mainly did it for working on the car. It has made it so much nicer to get access underneath the car. By the way I did my K member back in 2004 so the design has gotten better.
#9
K-Member Suggestions!
Hello
I see that you are asking about a K Member. And I just wanted to throw this out there for you for a suggestion. That we offer 2 different versions we have a regular aftermarket replacement member and UMI Performance is the only company to offer a Road Race version. Below is a link to show you what we have to offer.
http://umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=122
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
I see that you are asking about a K Member. And I just wanted to throw this out there for you for a suggestion. That we offer 2 different versions we have a regular aftermarket replacement member and UMI Performance is the only company to offer a Road Race version. Below is a link to show you what we have to offer.
http://umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=122
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be glad to help!
Thanks
Brad