Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

I want to remove ABS and I was wondering if there were any instructions, write-ups, or how-to's out there? If not, is anyone willing to walk me through it? I like having instructions on something Ive never done before because I feel more comfortable. Anyhow, if there's nothing out there, could someone kindly give me instructions? Thanks.

felton316

Easiest way to do it is to buy the Billingsley Racing ABS Delete block.


http://www.billingsleyracing.biz/Brakes_GM.htm

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

But isnt that the most expensive way though? What else does the block come with? If nothing else is needed which I doubt that there is, does the block just swap out with the existing one? Thanks.

Larry

iTrader: (4)

This is how I removed my ABS. You will get an ABS INOP light and brake light.

http://www.mustangmods.com/data/440/absdel.jpg

The lines are 3/16" and 6 mm. The 1/4" fitting works on the 6 mm. No flaring is required. These are high pressure compression fittings.

(1) Swagelok union tee SS-300-3 $17.90
(1) Swagelok reducing union SS-400-6-3 $8.50
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/440/fittings.jpg

Houston Center Valve and Fitting, 713 527 0233. Ask for Shonda. Tell her it's the same as order number 97179975. Invoice number 401345. Shipping was $4.07.

Note: Order an extra set of ferules just in case your lose one. They are pretty small and easy to drop.

Let me know if you have anymore questions.

Larry

felton316

Yes it is expensive......... but its easy.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Well I didnt want to really spend money on deleting something, but if I absolutely have to, then I would rather go the cheaper way. I just cant see spending $150 for a block of aluminum. I want to get rid of ABS completely because I dont need it, so that I can clean up the engine bay, and for weight savings. If I did the block, Im gonna have to spend lots of money and the bracket for the orginal block is still going to be there. So the weight savings arent as much and it wont be out of there for a cleaner look. Ok...an important question, can I still use my SLP line lock if I removed ABS?

Larry, if I can keep and use my SLP line lock without ABS, how would I route everything because it looks as if you dont have one in the pics?

Larry

iTrader: (4)

I don't have line lock. Not sure how you would plum it in but I'm sure it can be done but might take a few more fittings.

theblur98ss

iTrader: (71)

Just come out of your line lock and T that line into both of your front brake lines. I would try to route the brake lines out of the way a little bit too. Kinda hide them to make it look cleaner. This in on my to do list. Just figuring out the best way.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

Just delete the whole abs unit, and tee them together using 3/16 adapters. DOUBLE flare the ends; I would highly advise against using compression fittings on your brakes lines. The wall is thin enough to where they can slip out of the compression rings.

The only legal fittings I’m aware of are bubble flare and double flare connections on brake lines...you will never see compression ringed fittings on brake lines in addition to fuel lines.

Cost should be right around 35.00 minus the double flare tool. You'll also clean up a bit of weight in addition to making it look much cleaner.

Regarding your other post for your steering rack...don't tie the lines together after you remove everything. Remove everything, run the two lines into a reservoir so that your able to purge the air out in addition equalizing the pressure...if you tie the lines together, you'll always have air in the rack internals will fail. If you block each port off you will blow the seals quickly.


Steve
Pres.

S_J_H

I think your thinking about your typical hardware store brass fittings.These are not your typical hardware store fittings.
I'm also using Industrial S.S. Hydraulic compression fittings. They are designed for a 4000psi working pressure with a tube wall thickness of only .028" which is brake line thickness. Brake line might see 1000psi.
Where as a cheap brass hardware store fitting only has about A 400PSI working pressureand would be a VERY dangerous connection.
Trying to get a good double flare with a simple hand flaring tool on a small 6mm line is not easy. You can easily create a stress riser and make the connection weak.
And all the big AN fitting manufactures like Russel and Aeroquip make compression to AN fittings for metal fuel line plumbing.
Street Legal? No! But that does not mean much. A 5 point racing harness is illegal on the street but is much safer and stronger than a factory seat belt.
Bottom line , if you don't know what your doing then do not touch your brake or fuel system period!
Steve

Larry

iTrader: (4)

I don't know the legality of using compression fitting on automobile brake lines but I have used these stainless steel Swagelok fittings for years on industrial type high pressure relief valves up to 6000 psi in high vibration, corrosive applications. They are rated for the pressure rating of the tube. Just as S_J_H has said brake lines see much less that 6000 psi. These fittings will do the job.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Ive never done this before and I really dont know where to start. I really dont wanna start pulling things off and mess anything up. I will be ordering a rear end soon with a spool, so it wont retain ABS anyway, but I want to remove it now because I have slicks and skinnies on it and they dont mix well with ABS. So I want to remove it not only to fix my braking problem, but to remove weight as well. Could someone guide me on what I need to do. Also, I have a SLP line lock that I still want to keep and still be able to use. Please help me to remove the ABS and re-route the lines so that I can still have my brakes and line lock. Thanks a lot.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

Disconnect all the abs block and valving. Sell it to someone whom feels they need ABS if theirs was damaged.

Your better off tossing the pre-formed lines, start from scratch with new lines. You can reuse the fitting from the line (just cut the line and use the bubble flare metric fitting. You need bubble flare ends at the master cyl...that is the only place they are needed so keep this in mind.

Cut the fronts two lines down near your k-member and tee them together. Do the same to the rears (if you have 4 channel)...

Run the new lines in a clean fashion away from the heat of the headers down to your k-member where you can tie into the existing lines. Make your connections with double flare standard fittings found locally at your auto parts stores.

Fronts T-together, then go to the line lock then to the master cyl...Rears go together to a PROPORTIONING valve...and yes GET one...don't skip this part....then go into your master cyl...

You need to be able to bias your fronts to your rears for best stopping power. Just use a summit valve (wilwood re-label)...only about ~35.00 I believe offhand. I'm sure there will be folks stating that you don't need one and theirs works fine without it...it will work without one, though stopping distances as well as controlled stopping WILL be better when your fronts are biased to the rears....I can say with 100% assurance that your car will NOT be biased correctly without one.

It's much easier to start this way then to create a band aid trying to work with existing lines that are bent up to go to areas that are not necessary.

If this sounds too confusing or you dont feel you can do such a task, then consider having a reputable shop install it for you.

Steve
Pres.

hepcatws6

OK, guys here is a stupid question, but I gotta; ask it anyway? ABS...good? Bad?