No power steering unless rev engine
#1
Launching!
Thread Starter
No power steering unless rev engine
Stock LS1 power steering pump with aftermarket Al reservoir. . New/reman gen 3 power steering box 2.5 turn.
When the car is idling, I have no power assist. If I rev the engine to ~2000 RPM, I have assist.
Any thought where to start?
When the car is idling, I have no power assist. If I rev the engine to ~2000 RPM, I have assist.
Any thought where to start?
#2
TECH Fanatic
Is the belt tight? Hose kinked? Filled with fluid to the fill line on the dipstick tube? It absolutely would not be the first time a remanufactured power steering pump was bad fresh out of the box.
Rick
Rick
Trending Topics
#11
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
With pressure only at high RPM, I like Jwooky's suggestion to check the belts first. If they are good and have tension, then my next guess would be a stuck-open pressure relief valve. (in the pump) This could be allowing pressure to bleed off continually.
The solution is the same as a worn pump - time for a rebuild.
The solution is the same as a worn pump - time for a rebuild.
#13
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (11)
My pump had 106,000 on it. Had no issues, just had the motor out of the car so figured why not send it to turn one for a performance rebuild. They rebuilt it, tested it after rebuild, and told me I had pressure loss due to a worn out bore. I didn't even notice any issues, but the stock pump operates at a pretty high pressure so could take a decent amount of pressure loss until you felt something.
#14
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
The pump is not known to fail this quickly, but the fluid is... If that stuff gums up and the pressure relief valve doesn't shut all the way, you will see pressure bleed off at the low RPMs - particularly where you need all the pressure you can get.
Your pump may be perfectly fine, but if that relief valve (located in the pump body) is open, you might as well be driving a car with manual steering.
Your pump may be perfectly fine, but if that relief valve (located in the pump body) is open, you might as well be driving a car with manual steering.
#15
Launching!
Thread Starter
The pump is not known to fail this quickly, but the fluid is... If that stuff gums up and the pressure relief valve doesn't shut all the way, you will see pressure bleed off at the low RPMs - particularly where you need all the pressure you can get.
Your pump may be perfectly fine, but if that relief valve (located in the pump body) is open, you might as well be driving a car with manual steering.
Your pump may be perfectly fine, but if that relief valve (located in the pump body) is open, you might as well be driving a car with manual steering.
#17
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
+1. You could take the pump off, drain the fluid, inspect the valve, possibly replace it, replace the pump, replace the fluid, bleed the system, etc. but then you'd be left with a lot of effort, a big mess, and a pump with 1/2-3/4 of it's life gone.
For all that effort, I'd just remove the pump, send it off to Turn One, and have a quality rebuild back in-hand the following week to give you a good bit of certainty for the next 100K miles. (You can also do the pulley upgrade while you are at it.)
For all that effort, I'd just remove the pump, send it off to Turn One, and have a quality rebuild back in-hand the following week to give you a good bit of certainty for the next 100K miles. (You can also do the pulley upgrade while you are at it.)
#18
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (11)
+1. You could take the pump off, drain the fluid, inspect the valve, possibly replace it, replace the pump, replace the fluid, bleed the system, etc. but then you'd be left with a lot of effort, a big mess, and a pump with 1/2-3/4 of it's life gone.
For all that effort, I'd just remove the pump, send it off to Turn One, and have a quality rebuild back in-hand the following week to give you a good bit of certainty for the next 100K miles. (You can also do the pulley upgrade while you are at it.)
For all that effort, I'd just remove the pump, send it off to Turn One, and have a quality rebuild back in-hand the following week to give you a good bit of certainty for the next 100K miles. (You can also do the pulley upgrade while you are at it.)
#20
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (11)
The main bore, like since it's a pump inside there is a rotating gear like thing. Power steering fluid doesn't lubricate as well as engine oil so u still have 70,000 miles of not the greatest lubrication of a metal on metal contact. It's not bad lubrication just not as good as engine oil. A new high performance pump from turn one is 350 without pulley or reservoir. It's a little steep in my opinion but I still did it in hopes of freeing up 2 or 3 horsepower (I liked the idea behind the increased stiffness and pressure changes so I justify it by saying I'm spending 150 more than I think I should for 3 to, so 50 bucks per hp, not a terrible cost). But summit sells a new pump by tuff stuff, Its under 150. I would try that if u wanted to keep a stockish pump