patSS/00

iTrader: (6)

When I get new struts, and put them together with my existing upper mounts and springs, how do I get the angle between the upper and lower mounts exactly right? I know from trying to re-install my old ones, where the angle got slightly fubar'd somehow just from being removed for awhile, that if it's not exactly right it's impossible to install both upper and lower mounts at the same time. Also, can the lower mount bar be rotated to be flat against the a-arm (I can't rotate it at all on my old struts, maybe due to age)?

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

by lower mounts....you mean the spring perch on the shock body ? the upper rubber mount keys in with the end of the spring.....the spring perch has the end spring key in the metal or a rubber doughnut that fits within the perch....is that it ?

patSS/00

iTrader: (6)

By lower I meant the metal piece with the holes that bolts to the a-arm. It's encased in rubber, just want to know if it can be rotated at all on a new one, meaning within the rubber the holds it, since it won't rotate on my old one and it's impossible to line up the bolt holes.

Thanks for answer, so that means the upper mount and lower spring perch are not adjustable at all. Maybe my old springs are too old to re-use since the ends must not line up quite right anymore.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

your description is confusing.....the upper mount does bolt with the upper plate which holds the upper A arm......aftermarket upper mounts are KNOWN for fitment issues such as hole alignment

fst100

iTrader: (5)

OP see if this is the same issue you're facing in my old post a while back:
click here

patSS/00

iTrader: (6)

Yeah that, plus couldn't get the lower holes lined up if the upper part was bolted up, or vice versa. I did finally get it all bolted together, but had to do a lot of jacking the lower arm up and down, to barely get a lower bolt started, then jack it up and wrench the bolt down, expecting the threads to be destroyed. Also had to separate the upper ball joint, and detach the brake hose. I'm putting on new hoses, the old ones were fine but got really stretched.

Just a note for anyone installing an engine from underneath: when you're lowering the car / jacking up the engine/kmember assembly to bolt the kmember to the car, don't expect to be able to line up the top strut bolts with the holes in the engine bay, they won't be anywhere close no matter how you try to force it and you'll end up having to take the shocks/struts off and then re-install them.

chronos

I had the same issue with my new Koni's, the lower mounting bar was about 20* off. What I ended up doing was jacking up the lower arm until it just about lifted off the jack stand, then I used a screwdriver in one hole to pry the bar a bit while I tapped in the other bolt from below. Luckily it didn't damage the threads but something to watch out for.

I need to pull my driver's side out again so I can finish replacing the bushings. I was thinking of trying to bolt the shock in 'backwards' to the lower arm and then I could pull the top away from the fender, rather than trying to work with it in the wheel well where there is no room (with a jack gently supporting the lower arm). Then I could unbolt it and install it normally,and the angle of the bar should be closer.

gallardo259

I installed Koni's and Strano springs a few weeks ago and I bolted the lower mount in first and then compressed the springs a little bit to get the top studs through their holes. For some reason I only had to compress the spring on the passenger side to get it to fit.

patSS/00

iTrader: (6)

Do you have the stock upper control arms? I think those made it 10X more difficult when I was doing the install, since they're spring loaded against the inner fender wall. I think that must be to keep constant tension on the inner sides of the ball joints. I notice that aftermarket arms don't appear to be spring loaded.