5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

On street cars with over 500 hp in favor of a proportioning value and cleaner engine bay? I don't drive in the rain so I'm thinking about deleting it.

landstuhltaylor

iTrader: (6)

If you already have other retarded **** for the street like skinny front tires I don't see it making a difference. Otherwise you should keep it.

JMD759

iTrader: (6)

Proportioning valve here and never had an issue.

landstuhltaylor

iTrader: (6)

You can have a proportioning valve without removing the ABS

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

Does it even function correctly? I've never noticed it even working.

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

I'm in process of deleting ABS on my car, just looking to clean up the engine bay and it hasn't worked anyways since I've owned the car

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

my 02 z28 had the ABS delete and it stopped better than any other of my F bodys on skinnies

biketopia

iTrader: (5)

deleted mine, also deleted power brakes, I felt mine stopped just fine with the LT brakes, just upgraded to LS fronts.

jhshnh

I deleted mine and switched to Wilwood brakes front and rear. Stops way better than stock crap even with skinnies.

Undertow74

iTrader: (45)

No abs here. Not daily driver at all though

GtoProject

iTrader: (2)

I deleted the abs on my 99 daily about 2 years ago. Currently running a wilwood proportioning valve with newly bent lines on 295/55/15 Mt-SS's rears with skinnies in the front. No issues at all, it actually stops better than it used to by a good amount. Had a run in with a deer a year ago and just missed it, I'm certain I would've ran right into it with the stock abs. Abs can be a good thing, but it's pretty primitive in these cars.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

How difficult is it to switch over? Do you have to make lines or is there a kit?

biketopia

iTrader: (5)

Both are options. I made my own lines with a few T's and some new lines from the MC to the proportioning valve and line lock. There's a vendor that makes a kit and another that makes a dummy block. Here's a good thread with pictures and discussion on it, https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...bs-delete.html

Vicious95Z28

iTrader: (1)

I did the same aside from deleting the booster. It's been forever ago but my car was 4 channel and I basically ran the fronts direct off of the master cylinder and ran an adjustable proportioning valve to the rear. My car has been this way the last 13 years or so. It took a bit of careful driving at first time get the rear tuned in well but after that I've never had any doubts in my brakes. I have also recently upgraded to LS front brakes with slotted rotors and EBC pads. The car has been down recently for upgrades so I haven't been able to drive it in this form yet but I'm not worried.
Now, I have to run a new parking brake setup to the rear. Basically, I guess I'll have dual line locks. I'm sure someone will ask why do here ya go. When I ordered my rear from MWC I ordered it to use my LTX rear brakes but I added tow loops to a rear narrowed 2.5" per side. The massive parking brake assembly on the calipers hit the tow loops so I had to eliminate the Factory parking brake. I'll be going hydraulic now.

biketopia

iTrader: (5)

I was BS'n with my brother the other day about your dellima on e-brake. Could you just rotate, or swap the caliper mount bracket side to side to put the the calipers at 12 or 9 o-clock position vs 3 o-clock (in reference to the drivers side)? You'd have to get creative with e brake cables and do some unique bleeding but nothing that hasn't been done before. Or now that I'm typing this there's suspension mounts in the way isn't there..

Launch

Ditched it a long time ago and fitted wilwood proportioner and gave more bias to rears. The stock lt1 brakes with metallic pads pull up unreal. I don't need better even from 140mph.