2001ws6ft

Other than cost, difficulty, and time involved, what are other things against installing an upgraded kmember and a arms? Is there a new suspension geometry? I can't think of any downfalls IF the k members and control arms are well built. Less Weight on the nose and less unsprung weight should make the car handle better and be smoother. I highly doubt I will attempt this, but it's tempting since I'm replacing so much of my suspension. Now would be the time to do it.

91 Z28

iTrader: (3)

That was pretty much the first thing I ever did to my car. Didn't even give it a second thought. Less weight, more clearance and better looks. All wins in my book

micbegz28

iTrader: (5)

only down fall is that if you get all heim joints on the arms, they are creaky some times. but still a no brainier in my eyes.

2001ws6ft

Thanks. That's a point to take into account. If it's only sometimes and subtle, I can deal with it. How bad is the creaking?

Chris Paveglio

iTrader: (2)

The wisdom from the road race crowd has been that the stock member is stronger than most aftermarket K members; except the UMI K member for RR/AX is probably the best for strength. They're doing some cool stuff with the ackerman geometry. I don't know if that made it into the production pieces yet.

2001ws6ft

I definitely want the stronger version if I bother going tubular k members. Is that the only difference their road race version has? Just beefed up?

Spamfritter

iTrader: (1)

I know what guy on here hit a curb or something and bent the K-Member and some other stuff. He ended up going back to the stock K-Member after that. Personally, I plan on going to the UMI K-Member eventually. It makes dropping the oil pan easier, it gives you more room to work and I can install a turbocharger if I want to while retaining my air conditioning. I live in Texas, so an A/C delete is a dumbass idea.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (23)

Nope, removing weight from low in the car raises center of gravity and makes it handle worse. Can't just ***** nilly remove weight from the car and expect better results because weight distribution is very important. Reduction of unsprung weight is a good thing.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

Not a bunch of downfall in a tubular K-member. They have been on street cars, drag cars, and auto-x/road race cars since the 70's even without the offering of a "beefed up" version. Them mention of noisy heim joints, if the company uses a quality heim joint that is a minimum of a Teflon lined version it will drastically reduce the noise.

I myself have had tubular K-members and A-Arms on vehicles since the early 90's on daily do it all type racing drivers with out issues. Kevin who used to work here put 100,xxx miles on his tubular K-Member/A-Arms when he daily drove his car a few years ago. The same ones are still on his car going mid 8's even the same heim joints which goes to show if good ones are used they will last.

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

I know there hasn't been much documented k member failures, i only saw that bmr piece that was made I believe 2008ish. after seeing just that one failure, I want the strongest piece available.

let's be real, these cars get beat on when we take them out, these aren't really dailys anymore. we **** whip them into corners, we do pulls up to 130 maybe more, and do all sorts of stuff. honestly the only benefit i see is if u road race and or turbo. the bmr race version I believe allows for more aggressive alignment specs to help when u are really pushing these cars. trying to protect the thousands and thousands of dollars I put into this car by not downgrading the factory piece just to make it easier to work on and risking the structural integrity of something that is responsible for many things besides holding the engine in place.

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

I run a mwc tube k with stock control arms. Urethane bushings and rod ends suck on a real street car. If it a limited street/strip type car I'm sure you can live with it. They're harsh, make noise and will require more maintenance. There's not alot of weight difference in aftermarket vs stock control arms either. And with a little whittling on the stock ones they may end up lighter.

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

I did get new lower a arms and plan on getting uppers eventually. by design I say tubular a arms are very similar or better in strength over factory

Z28SteveA4

iTrader: (16)

I’ve had a umi road racing k member in my car for over 10 years and 80,xxx miles. Not problems ever with it. Very nice piece and it’s def the strongest k member out there. I use to daily drive the car on the highway every day so I wanted the strongest one and the road racing one never was a problem