final analysis: rod ends vs actual street manners
#62
TECH Senior Member
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Originally Posted by KB99WS6
What do the stock BMR's come with? the car had the BMR LCA's and phb in it when I bought it and I can only assume they are unmodified...
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/index.htm
Last edited by JasonWW; 04-20-2005 at 02:45 PM.
#63
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I was having the same problem, trying to decide which way to go w/ lca's. I decided to put poly/rod combo arms on and although I haven't put many miles on it since, I didn't notice a difference b/w this combo and poly/poly combo.
#64
The Scammer Hammer
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Holy Thread Resurrection!!
I searched, and came to this thread. It's helped tremendously; A damn good thread, but I know damn good and well tech & opinions change a lot in 7yrs.
What's the general concensus now? I'm about to drop coin on "everything" Founders, and want to ensure I get the right parts.
I already have solid motor mounts and a poly trans mt. I love them. However, I also live in Louisiana. South Louisiana at that. I'm REALLY leaning towards rod/rod for everything. Is it really going to be that bad?
I searched, and came to this thread. It's helped tremendously; A damn good thread, but I know damn good and well tech & opinions change a lot in 7yrs.
What's the general concensus now? I'm about to drop coin on "everything" Founders, and want to ensure I get the right parts.
I already have solid motor mounts and a poly trans mt. I love them. However, I also live in Louisiana. South Louisiana at that. I'm REALLY leaning towards rod/rod for everything. Is it really going to be that bad?
#65
Copy & Paste Moderator
I have a different setup in the rear now that I did a few years ago.
I now have roto-joints from UMI on both ends of the LCAs & PHB.
You get the benefits of a rod-end with less harshness.
If you are considering rod-ends and drive on the street, I'd recommend roto-joints instead.
I now have roto-joints from UMI on both ends of the LCAs & PHB.
You get the benefits of a rod-end with less harshness.
If you are considering rod-ends and drive on the street, I'd recommend roto-joints instead.
#66
The Scammer Hammer
iTrader: (49)
Thanks VIP, I was considering that.... but the pocket book didn't agree. I wish someone local to me had rod ends, that way I could feel what they are actually like.
Founders, to my knowledge, doesn't offer their swivel joint in an adjustable set-up. Haven't heard a lot about it yet though, adjustable or otherwise.
For the PHB I should be fine with a rod/rod I would think.....
Founders, to my knowledge, doesn't offer their swivel joint in an adjustable set-up. Haven't heard a lot about it yet though, adjustable or otherwise.
For the PHB I should be fine with a rod/rod I would think.....
#67
Copy & Paste Moderator
On my car, the rod-ends didn't last all that long before they loosened up and rattled. I've been running on roto-joints for longer and they are still tight. Plus roto-joints are adjustable to tighten them up when they do loosen, unlike rod-ends.
#69
On The Tree
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My '02 SS is lowered & daily-driven. The rear is a Strange 12-bolt with rod-ended torque arm, rod-ended PHB, fixed LCA's, Air-Ride assist air bags. Front is tubular K-member with rod-ended LCA's. Hurst aftermarket shifter get's rid of the rubber there too. Under the car are k-type SFC's. With the cam & open exhaust there's not a lot you don't hear or feel.
Adding the K-member caused the most harshness. I would rather call the car crisp, but when crossing a sharp edge like an expansion joint there's a noticeable "clip" in the bump, not noticeable on dips or less edgy impacts. Anyone have a fix to keep the rear view mirror in position?
Adding the K-member caused the most harshness. I would rather call the car crisp, but when crossing a sharp edge like an expansion joint there's a noticeable "clip" in the bump, not noticeable on dips or less edgy impacts. Anyone have a fix to keep the rear view mirror in position?
#71
TECH Resident
iTrader: (4)
I have factory LCA's with factory rubber bushings, rear suspension-wise I had the car lowered with 150lb springs & GC adjustment setup, also LGM G2 adjustable rod end PHR, no noticable road noise whatsoever, but then again I've only had them on since 10/04...
After reading this thread I'm going to Napa & buy that graphite lubricant spray and lube the rod-ends.
After reading this thread I'm going to Napa & buy that graphite lubricant spray and lube the rod-ends.
So eight years later I still have the LGM G2 adjustable rod end PHR and still no noticible road noise, I actually wiped them down and sprayed the graphite lubricant spray only 3 times since this original quote of mine and I don't have any play on the rod ends yet, they're the original rod ends that came with the PHR so longevity-wise they're still in great shape, go figure.
I'm pretty sure back in 10/2004 I had about 35K miles on my car and now I'm at 95K miles, so as far as I'm concerned that was a great buy.
#72
I had poly end for eveything in the back. I recently switched to poly rod combo lcas. On the same ramp i drive off of every week, coming around, the back would skip when i hit a particular bump. Now the rear just rolls over nicely
#74
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The roto-joints would make me reconsider trying the LCA's that had rod ends. I still have them somewhere at my dad's house. I never had any problems with noise on the PHB with rod ends, and drove the car daily up until about two years ago.
#75
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I used all poly ended parts in the rear of my car except for the BMR extreme anti-sway bar. That has the spherical rod joints. Like everyone else, I can hear them click a lot when cruising at 35-40 mph and less. Once you are at highway speeds or in the throttle and loading the rear, you dont even notice them. They do feel great. Im planning on keeping the lower ones and swapping in a poly rod end on the tops to eliminate some of the clicking on the brackets. Should still handle well with the poly. It all depends on how much those little clickety clack sounds drive you crazy. Some people dont mind, and for others it makes them want to run around and punch babies.