SLP vs. Kenny Brown Sub Frames
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From: Belleville, MI
SLP vs. Kenny Brown Sub Frames I like both of these designs because they've got cross-bracing whereas other designs don't. The SLP weld-in ones come unpainted, but I won't paint them after install so does that mean I'll have to worry about rust? The Kenny Browns on the other hand come with a zinc-chromate plating to reduce corrosion. What are your guys thoughts on the differences between the two in design and how well they'll last? My car gets parked in the winters but it does get driven in the rain. The SLP's are around $70 cheaper but with teh differences in design and coating I don't know about it. Is ground clearance much different with either brand, I'd prefer to not be able to see them at all on the car from the side, thanks.
I have no experience with the SLP's, however I did just get a set of Kenny Brown's and I must say they are excellent. I wouln't worry too much about seeing the zinc finish on em. They tuck up very nice. I can't even see them if i lay down next to the car. 
KBDD's
KBDD's I run the SLP's and put 2 coats of paint on them before they were welded on. The welder just wire brushed the paint off where the welding was done. After he was finished and the steel cooled down I shot some paint on them. They look good and you could tell a difference right away in the way the car drove. You can't go wrong with either one. But I couldn't see paying more for the KB's. 2 cans of paint from the home depot for 6 bucks is more like it 4 me... 
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From: Belleville, MI
I guess that's a good point. I'm just going to have a friend help me weld them in so I could just paint them under the car once we've got them on. I was just worried about them rusting but the paint should take care of that.
Originally Posted by Ru2n00n3er
I guess that's a good point. I'm just going to have a friend help me weld them in so I could just paint them under the car once we've got them on. I was just worried about them rusting but the paint should take care of that.
You will not be able to paint the top on the SFC if you weld them on first. Just give them a couple of good coats of paint. You can wire brush the spots that need to be clean for the weld. Then touch them up after all is said and done. The car needs to have the suspension loaded when the SFC's are welded on. What I mean is to have it on a lift where the car is supported on its wheels just like it is going down the road. A lift where the car is lifted by the body with the wheels unloaded will not work.
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the BMR tubular SFC's handsdown outperform the KBDD or SLP's by my SOTP dyno. you can take the KBDD and bend them over your knee. I've installed both on my customers cars, although advised them that the BMR would be a wiser choice, and driven cars with both SFC's The KBDD is made of very thin boxed metal that is crush bent, as with the SLP's The BMR's are fairly cheap also.
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From: AUSTIN TX
I was just going to say that the KBDD seem to be a lot lighter duty. I have a set and they are made out of 1" square tubing, they might be good for an autocross car with all the criss crossing, but I do not think they are up to the task of a heavily modded drag car. I do like the way they box in the front LCA mount though. I may see about welding in another straight steel brace from front to back eventually.
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I plan on starting to autocross a little bit just for fun but I'm primarily a drag car guy and daily driver. I only plan on doing bolt-ons and maybe a mid size cam so it's not gonna be loads of power. This is more of a way to just keep my car nice and tight as it gets older as a daily driver.
Description of the SLP subframes. "The frames are constructed of 2" X 2", 1" X 1" and 2" X 3" 14 gauge steel tube and 1/4" steel plate."
So these have 2 inch steel tubes for the main part also, but the KBDD only have 1 inch?
Description of the SLP subframes. "The frames are constructed of 2" X 2", 1" X 1" and 2" X 3" 14 gauge steel tube and 1/4" steel plate."
So these have 2 inch steel tubes for the main part also, but the KBDD only have 1 inch?
Last edited by Ru2n00n3er; Feb 2, 2005 at 07:54 AM.
TECH Resident
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From: AUSTIN TX
I have never seen a set of the SLP's, but that sounds correct. A buddy of mine has a set made by a start up company, and they are much stronger than my KBDD. H can place the jack in the center of the subframe connector and jack up the whole side of the car, there is now way I would try that with my 1" square tubing KBDD. As mentioned previously though, the KBDD completely box in the LCA attaching point, his do not (I do not know if any of the others do).
Staging Lane
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From: Bay Area, CA
So these have 2 inch steel tubes for the main part also, but the KBDD only have 1 inch?
No, the main length of SFCs is 2x3" tubing. Angled portion is 2x2. The three lengths of tubing that tie into the tunnel brace are 1x1". I removed the KBDDs on my '01 and replaced them with SLPs.
The SLPs are superior when it comes to bending strength, and I could feel that in the seat of the pants as well (big difference). What surprised me is the SLPs didn't appear to improve the torsional rigidity compared to the KBDDs, they were pretty much equivalent.
No, the main length of SFCs is 2x3" tubing. Angled portion is 2x2. The three lengths of tubing that tie into the tunnel brace are 1x1". I removed the KBDDs on my '01 and replaced them with SLPs.
The SLPs are superior when it comes to bending strength, and I could feel that in the seat of the pants as well (big difference). What surprised me is the SLPs didn't appear to improve the torsional rigidity compared to the KBDDs, they were pretty much equivalent.
I'm in the same boat. I don't drag or auto-x. I'm just looking to keep the frame tight and rattle-free in the long run.
Can you actually tell a difference in the way the car rides and sounds after installing the SLP subframes? Will it make it louder in any way, i.e. clunking noises from dips in the road?
I read in another post that the BMR tubular subframes make the car feel just as rigid as the SLP double diamonds. I can't really see that happening considering they only run from the front to the back but who knows. I know that Rob Raynor ran the BMR tubulars and swore by them. His frame was straight as an arror pulling wheels in first and second running in the nines!
A friends of mine had a ten point cage welded in his car and he said he couldn't really tell a difference. I don't think he was really looking for it though. He has all stock susp. except for BMR boxed LCA's.
Also, I was looking into getting a Hotchkis STB. Can you tell any kind of difference with those.
Can you actually tell a difference in the way the car rides and sounds after installing the SLP subframes? Will it make it louder in any way, i.e. clunking noises from dips in the road?
I read in another post that the BMR tubular subframes make the car feel just as rigid as the SLP double diamonds. I can't really see that happening considering they only run from the front to the back but who knows. I know that Rob Raynor ran the BMR tubulars and swore by them. His frame was straight as an arror pulling wheels in first and second running in the nines!
A friends of mine had a ten point cage welded in his car and he said he couldn't really tell a difference. I don't think he was really looking for it though. He has all stock susp. except for BMR boxed LCA's.
Also, I was looking into getting a Hotchkis STB. Can you tell any kind of difference with those.
Go with the DDs, Kenny or SLP, IMO the BMRs are not worth a ****. And if you are going to paint them, just do like I did and mask off the weld points with maksing tape, then you wont need a wire brush
