Brake Problems Help!
Brake Problems Help! ok guys ive kinda had the whole pulse brake pedal and the steering wheel shaking and now its the having to push harder on the brake pedal to stop ne one point me in the right direction as to waht i need to do to fix all this id really appreciate it thanx.
I had a brake warpage problem so I ordered cross drilled rotors and new pads. It costs about $100 dollars per rotor but they will run a lot cooler and won't warp. I know it sounds costly but you will be very happy with them and won't have to worry about your brakes for a while.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 9,764
Likes: 208
From: Eastern MA
Originally Posted by rtobrian
I had a brake warpage problem so I ordered cross drilled rotors and new pads. It costs about $100 dollars per rotor but they will run a lot cooler and won't warp.
They dont run any cooler are any more warp resistant. They are actually crack prone.
Originally Posted by Trans_Am05
ok guys ive kinda had the whole pulse brake pedal and the steering wheel shaking and now its the having to push harder on the brake pedal to stop ne one point me in the right direction as to waht i need to do to fix all this id really appreciate it thanx.
Last edited by VIP1; Feb 19, 2005 at 02:24 PM.
[QUOTE=VIP1]This is a way too common misconception.
They dont run any cooler are any more warp resistant. They are actually crack prone.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262940[/QUOT
This is my second Trans Am and brake warpage has always been a problem until I switched to the crossdrilled rotors. They do in fact run cooler. After driving one day with the stock rotors, I put my finger on it and almost burned myself. When I switched to the cross drilled rotors I did the same thing and they were hot but nowhere near burning me. I haven't had any problems with them. If you buy your rotors from a reputable company, you won't have any problems with them cracking. Hey, doesn't the corvette come with cross drilled rotors stock?
They dont run any cooler are any more warp resistant. They are actually crack prone.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262940[/QUOT
This is my second Trans Am and brake warpage has always been a problem until I switched to the crossdrilled rotors. They do in fact run cooler. After driving one day with the stock rotors, I put my finger on it and almost burned myself. When I switched to the cross drilled rotors I did the same thing and they were hot but nowhere near burning me. I haven't had any problems with them. If you buy your rotors from a reputable company, you won't have any problems with them cracking. Hey, doesn't the corvette come with cross drilled rotors stock?
Copy & Paste Moderator
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 9,764
Likes: 208
From: Eastern MA
Yes, some automobile manufacturers sell their cars with slotted/drilled rotors. But its for the "bling" factor and to cater to those that "must have" slotted/drilled rotors because they "believe" that they are better.
Trackbird coevered it here:
http://home.columbus.rr.com/trackbir...led_rotors.htm
Here is a thread where some one tries to say he is wrong:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=slotted
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/185268-power-stop-rotors.html
Here is some brake tech:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=slotted
So you touched them to see how hot they are...
* Was this a scientific test?
* Did you drive the same course?
* Did you perform the same braking procedure (number of stops, length of stop, pedal pressure)?
* Did you drive the same distance before and after the braking test?
* Was the outside temperature and overall weather the same for both test?
There are way too many variables in that "test" for any accuracy. If you parked it immediately after heavy braking, the rotors will be hotter and may warp than if you drive for a while before parking.
If you want to refute any of this, talk to Trakbird or Mitchintx. They know more on the subject than I do and have much more experience.
Follow the link in my first post in this thread. Its a link to a similar thread where I posted several links on this subject.
Trackbird coevered it here:
http://home.columbus.rr.com/trackbir...led_rotors.htm
Here is a thread where some one tries to say he is wrong:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=slotted
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/185268-power-stop-rotors.html
Here is some brake tech:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=slotted
So you touched them to see how hot they are...
* Was this a scientific test?
* Did you drive the same course?
* Did you perform the same braking procedure (number of stops, length of stop, pedal pressure)?
* Did you drive the same distance before and after the braking test?
* Was the outside temperature and overall weather the same for both test?
There are way too many variables in that "test" for any accuracy. If you parked it immediately after heavy braking, the rotors will be hotter and may warp than if you drive for a while before parking.
If you want to refute any of this, talk to Trakbird or Mitchintx. They know more on the subject than I do and have much more experience.
Follow the link in my first post in this thread. Its a link to a similar thread where I posted several links on this subject.
Last edited by VIP1; Feb 19, 2005 at 03:03 PM.
Originally Posted by VIP1
Yes, some automobile manufacturers sell their cars with slotted/drilled rotors. But its for the "bling" factor and to cater to those that "must have" slotted/drilled rotors because they "believe" that they are better.
Trackbird coevered it here:
http://home.columbus.rr.com/trackbir...led_rotors.htm
Here is a thread where some one tries to say he is wrong:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=slotted
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185268
Here is some brake tech:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=slotted
So you touched them to see how hot they are...
* Was this a scientific test?
* Did you drive the same course?
* Did you perform the same braking procedure (number of stops, length of stop, pedal pressure)?
* Did you drive the same distance before and after the braking test?
* Was the outside temperature and overall weather the same for both test?
There are way too many variables in that "test" for any accuracy. If you parked it immediately after heavy braking, the rotors will be hotter and may warp than if you drive for a while before parking.
If you want to refute any of this, talk to Trakbird or Mitchintx. They know more on the subject than I do and have much more experience.
Follow the link in my first post in this thread. Its a link to a similar thread where I posted several links on this subject.
Trackbird coevered it here:
http://home.columbus.rr.com/trackbir...led_rotors.htm
Here is a thread where some one tries to say he is wrong:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=slotted
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185268
Here is some brake tech:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=slotted
So you touched them to see how hot they are...
* Was this a scientific test?
* Did you drive the same course?
* Did you perform the same braking procedure (number of stops, length of stop, pedal pressure)?
* Did you drive the same distance before and after the braking test?
* Was the outside temperature and overall weather the same for both test?
There are way too many variables in that "test" for any accuracy. If you parked it immediately after heavy braking, the rotors will be hotter and may warp than if you drive for a while before parking.
If you want to refute any of this, talk to Trakbird or Mitchintx. They know more on the subject than I do and have much more experience.
Follow the link in my first post in this thread. Its a link to a similar thread where I posted several links on this subject.
Hey, you do what makes you happy and i'll do what works best for me!
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Copy & Paste Moderator
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 9,764
Likes: 208
From: Eastern MA
Originally Posted by rtobrian
Hey, you do what makes you happy and i'll do what works best for me!
Thats the motto I live by.
I was just passing on what I have learned.
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