K-member installed not happy
02-20-2005, 08:01 PM
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K-member installed not happy anyone else do a K-member only swap and their car feels like a tub of **** afterwards....before it my car was silky smooth no vibrations and whatnot, I just installed a PA racing K-member and immediately on startup i noticed vibrations inside the car at all sorts of RPMs and is VERY noticeable, i got the front wheels as straight as i could but still it pulls a slight bit to the right, im having a 4 wheel alignment done next weekend, i also checked for anything hitting or rubbing and all seems fine. im just wondering if anybody else encountered this
02-20-2005, 08:20 PM
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I think that's a normal trade off. The stock member is heavy for a reason, to make it stiff. To make it lighter you have to give up on stiffness. Before you panic though, is anything loose?
The other thing I notice is that some vendors offer Chromoly versions of products that are even lighter. Chromoly is stronger but all steels are the same stiffness so the Chromoly version is even more flexible (if its lighter).
The other thing I notice is that some vendors offer Chromoly versions of products that are even lighter. Chromoly is stronger but all steels are the same stiffness so the Chromoly version is even more flexible (if its lighter).
02-20-2005, 08:26 PM
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im not panicing, im tired i screwed with that thing all day, im gonna throw it back on the lift later this week after and check everything out again but me and a friend went over and over the whole mess to make sure everything was done and tight, i do notice the shifter barely moves at all at idle (230 232 cam) and it used to jiggle a good bit....ttt
02-20-2005, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by BJM
I think that's a normal trade off. The stock member is heavy for a reason, to make it stiff. To make it lighter you have to give up on stiffness. Before you panic though, is anything loose?
The other thing I notice is that some vendors offer Chromoly versions of products that are even lighter. Chromoly is stronger but all steels are the same stiffness so the Chromoly version is even more flexible (if its lighter).
The other thing I notice is that some vendors offer Chromoly versions of products that are even lighter. Chromoly is stronger but all steels are the same stiffness so the Chromoly version is even more flexible (if its lighter).
02-20-2005, 08:46 PM
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I did not pick up any rattles, but do have a lot more
shake / flex after my BMR K-member. Still want to work
on adding some triangulation to it, to regain chassis
stiffness. Someday.
When I had mine installed I had a performance alignment
done in the shop before I left.
shake / flex after my BMR K-member. Still want to work
on adding some triangulation to it, to regain chassis
stiffness. Someday.
When I had mine installed I had a performance alignment
done in the shop before I left.
02-20-2005, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Kurtomac
i would have figured this new mild steel tubular k member would be stiffer, the stock one is crappy stamped and welded steel
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02-20-2005, 09:03 PM
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The difference is, a 1.5" butt-welded tube with no gusseting
vs a roughly 6"x4", smoothly-transitioned, single sheet end-
to-end weldment. The aftermarket Ks are just nowhere near
as robust. Materials have little or nothing to do with it. It's
the design. I don't consider any of them truly streetworthy,
in a curb-surfing sense. But I bought BMR because they at
least had the huevos to claim theirs was suitable for the
street (other vendors at the time had disclaimers instead).
Too bad nobody makes a real street-tough one. I can see places
where just a -little- bit of steel could really change the ability
to take abuse or provide safety against weld cracking. If I
had found one that was 2lb heavier but that 2lb was in straps
over the critical circle welds, gussets at the right angles
and maybe triangulation / X bracing, you bet your *** I would
have bought that one instead.
vs a roughly 6"x4", smoothly-transitioned, single sheet end-
to-end weldment. The aftermarket Ks are just nowhere near
as robust. Materials have little or nothing to do with it. It's
the design. I don't consider any of them truly streetworthy,
in a curb-surfing sense. But I bought BMR because they at
least had the huevos to claim theirs was suitable for the
street (other vendors at the time had disclaimers instead).
Too bad nobody makes a real street-tough one. I can see places
where just a -little- bit of steel could really change the ability
to take abuse or provide safety against weld cracking. If I
had found one that was 2lb heavier but that 2lb was in straps
over the critical circle welds, gussets at the right angles
and maybe triangulation / X bracing, you bet your *** I would
have bought that one instead.
Originally Posted by BJM
Even the crappiest carbon steel is just as stiff as any other, its just weaker. If you reduce the stiffness of the piece the engine sits on, the natural frequencies of the engine couple with the body more. The factory design is the minimum acceptable stiffness for the cheapest price. Its doubtful any after market piece could weigh much less without losing stiffness. Strength isn't the issue, once the stiffness is dialed in the strength will almost always be fine too.
02-21-2005, 03:36 PM
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im gonna throw it back up on the rack, theres gotta be something rubbing on something or something loose i swear this went from like a stock like ride in the interior with my dual dual exhaust and whatnot to like a friiggen 88 chevy pickup
02-21-2005, 03:48 PM
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JRP i routed my brake lines along the K member via the instructions i found online didnt have to bend or move them much and zip tied into place, i used the BMR install instructions i didnt remove the rack and pinion i was able to do the swap with it still in place i zip tied it up until i was done with the swap, another thing i noticed my steering shaft isnt as far on as it was befroe the swap probably3/8 inch off where it was, and i did have a bitch of a time getting the passengers side Rack and pinion mounting bolt in as it didnt line up perfectly, i had to pry with a screw driver and screw it self in, the hole really needed opened a little as it didnt look to be welded on perfectly straight
